• Welcome to Photrio!
    Registration is fast and free. Join today to unlock search, see fewer ads, and access all forum features.
    Click here to sign up

How to replicate the tone and colours of old Agfacolor film, is it possible?

Tompkins Square Park

A
Tompkins Square Park

  • 3
  • 0
  • 49
Siesta Time

A
Siesta Time

  • 1
  • 0
  • 38

Recent Classifieds

Forum statistics

Threads
202,859
Messages
2,846,673
Members
101,572
Latest member
apltd
Recent bookmarks
0
The problem with this thread is not only that a variety of Agfacolor films are mixed up, but moreover that it is hard to get an impression of the true look of the old films of the 30s and 40s.
 
The problem with this thread is not only that a variety of Agfacolor films are mixed up, but moreover that it is hard to get an impression of the true look of the old films of the 30s and 40s.

^^^
Folks foget these ummutable facts...
  1. Color negative film acquires the characteristics of the PAPER the shot is printed on, for the final characteristics of the shot! Kodak printed on Fuji paper looks different than Kodak printed on Kodak paper, for example
  2. Color film dyes FADE over the years, so that film seen today has a different balance/appearance than the same film seen 50 years ago.
  3. Color print dyes FADE over the years, so that the print seen today has a different balance/appearance than the same print seen 50 years ago.
So just WHAT are you trying to replicate?!
 
^^^
Folks foget these ummutable facts...
  1. Color negative film acquires the characteristics of the PAPER the shot is printed on, for the final characteristics of the shot! Kodak printed on Fuji paper looks different than Kodak printed on Kodak paper, for example
  2. Color film dyes FADE over the years, so that film seen today has a different balance/appearance than the same film seen 50 years ago.
  3. Color print dyes FADE over the years, so that the print seen today has a different balance/appearance than the same print seen 50 years ago.
So just WHAT are you trying to replicate?!
I think the OP posted a pretty clear image which represents the Look he or she is trying to replicate..
 
I haven't had a chance to use it yet personally, but from everything I've seen Lomo's XPro Slide 200/Rollei CR200 might give you that look.

Here's a really good write-up: https://www.thephoblographer.com/2017/04/13/review-lomography-xpro-slide-200-film-35mm-format/

The yellow cast from that film is somewhat similar to the picture in post #1. I had a roll of CR200 in 135 and 120 each to test. Interesting enough to have shot a roll but for me a failure. Just as that faded image above isn't to my taste.

There was someone here or on another forum or blog. He mentioned that CR200 can look nice when stored right and when developed immediately after exposure. I believe it looks more like the second sample the OP posted. If I could have that (Ferrania E6?) I'd like it for occasional use.

Also I once forgot to remove my 85B filter after shooting the remainder of a roll of 500T in daylight. I continued with CT Precisa and also got results similar to the OPs first sample. So maybe an 85B filter would be a good starting point if that faded, very warm look is what he is looking for. The colours will still come out, so perhaps less faded but obviously very warm.

Testing filters with CT Precisa would probably a good idea. It will show the true nature of the effect without influence from RA4/hybrid filtration. Given OPs chosen name he may have cheap access to the film through the DM drugstore chain.
 
CR 200 has an emulsion derived from a very well regarded slide film from the 90s. It has no connection at all with those various Agfacolor films from the 30s/40s.

If you think that its faulty samples give the look of old Agfacolor then it may be.
 
Last edited:
I think Agfacolor Portrait 160 (if you can get some) would be a good start. It is C41 process.
 
I think the OP posted a pretty clear image which represents the Look he or she is trying to replicate..
Yes, understood that he is wanting ro replicate what he sees today. I merely pointed out that 'today' the image will look very different from the same image processed 30-40 years ago, and that appearance really depends upon which brand of color paper it was printed on, based purely upon the selection preferences of the lab doing the printing back then

a 'look' is very ephemeral and also very 'conditional' (it depends), even the manner in which film/print is stored over a long period of time.

Judging an offset printed page (printer ink) 1984 comparison of Agfacolor XR100 vs. Kodacolor VR100 vs. Fujicolor HR100, the color rendition of a Macbeth Colorchecker was NOT significantly different, it was merely a difference in the 'warmth' of the overall image... Kodacolor was the coolest, Agfacolor was the most 'neutral' grayscale area yet with greenish skin tones, while Fujicolor was the warmest in overall rendition.
 
Last edited:
Yes, understood that he is wanting ro replicate what he sees today. I merely pointed out that 'today' the image will look very different from the same image processed 30-40 years ago, ...

The films he refers too are even about 80 years old, though the reproductions are too likely very old.
 
Photrio.com contains affiliate links to products. We may receive a commission for purchases made through these links.
To read our full affiliate disclosure statement please click Here.

PHOTRIO PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Ilford ADOX Freestyle Photographic Stearman Press Weldon Color Lab Blue Moon Camera & Machine
Top Bottom