that works and does much of what the ZoneSystem does only easier; the general rule is to over expose and underdeveloped;if HC110 doesn't allow you to do that, try D76 1+1 and if all fails, you are better of to do a full film test.However, the MassDevChart is a brilliant start.Reduce the contrast by printing on a lower grade on multigrade paper.
RM,
I looked at the print carefully; frankly, I don't see the issues you are concerned about. I think it looks fine as it is.
I have done tons of rolls of Tri-X in HC110 dil B and never encountered uneven development results. I fail to see where Kodak, one of the great conservatives in process control, would recommend a combination of developer and film when it is prone to issues for the majority. Plus-X at normal contrast was even shorter times than Tri-X...3.6 mins for Plus-X to have normal contrast.
Develop less time. Or dilute the developer more.
Forget all the charts and advice. Exposure controls density in shadows on the neg. Time in developer controls density of highlights on the neg.
It's a negative, not a print, and the blacks are just crushed; far too dark. Other images from this roll are much, much worse. I want to raise the shadows and not touch the highlights.
then its an exposure issue not one of development. If most of roll is missing shadow detail then check exposure compensation dial hasnt been jogged accidentally to -1 or -2 or that whatever you were shooting wasnt tricking the meter.
might even be the case you need to use centre filter as centre of shot looks lot brighter than edges.
Sure, there are more than one way to skin a cat, but it's astonishing (and a bit disappointing) just how much bad advice and misconception there is on this thread.
Some basics:
More development = more overall contrast in the negative
Less development = less overall contrast in the negative
Shadow detail is controlled for the most part (90%) by EXPOSURE. Development has very little to do with it.
Now some details:
You can increase development by (in order of usual preference) 1. increasing development time 2. increasing developer activity (e.g. more concentrated developer or even a different developer) 3. increasing the frequency and intensity of agitation, or some logical combination of these.
You can reduce development by (again in the order of usual preference) 1. decreasing development time 2. decreasing developer activity (e.g. less-concentrated developer or even a different developer) 3. decreasing the frequency and intensity of agitation or some logical combination of these.
@Ratty
There is no "general rule" that you should dilute your developer and increase developing time to reduce overall negative contrast. It is one way of getting the result IF you get the right dilution and the right time. Note that it is a combination of numbers one and two above.
Developing negatives does not exist in a vacuum. There are lots of contrast controls available for printing. The advice to try a lower-contrast setting when printing is GOOD advice and very relevant. Comments like "This post has nothing to do with printing and everything to do with developing" demonstrate a fundamental misunderstanding of how things work. You may just be able to get the very best print possible by simply printing with a bit lower contrast.
However, if you are dead set on not trying printing adjustments, use one of the methods listed above to reduce the negative contrast. If you're having trouble recording shadow detail, then adjust your exposure accordingly.
Be aware also that adjusting agitation schemes can result in uneven development. That's the reason it's last on the preference list. First choice if your negs are too contrasty is simply to reduce development a bit. I'm frankly kind of surprised that that wasn't the first bit of advice you got in the thread. Michael R. knows what he's talking about, listen to him and disregard a lot of the other, more spurious, advice that appears in this thread.
And realize that you will have to do your own tests to find the exposure and development times that work best for you. No one, not the film manufacturer or the developer manufacturer or online development charts or anyone on this forum can take into account exactly what you do. Do your own due diligence.
You know, Kodak had it all pretty well straightened out years ago with the simple recommendation: "If your negatives are consistently too contrasty, reduce development time."
Doremus
Great observation!! I forgot I did not use the ND filter due to all these shots being indoor (not enough light)! Well spotted.
If you are scanning then you might be able to make some sort of centre spot filter in photoshop that will allow you to lift shadows proportionally across the frame so that you can still shoot handheld at a decent shutter speed.
Just out of curiosity, if Rattymouse continues to use HC110 is there any way he can achieve what he needs to and still keep development time to say 7+ mins. I'd be a bit nervous going as low as 5 mins and yet with HC110 this seems to be the only solution. Maybe 5 mins is OK but I must admit to being used to a more relaxed time period. Things do happen very fast at 5 mins and any leeway is very short, I'd have thought
pentaxuser
Just out of curiosity, if Rattymouse continues to use HC110 is there any way he can achieve what he needs to and still keep development time to say 7+ mins. I'd be a bit nervous going as low as 5 mins and yet with HC110 this seems to be the only solution. Maybe 5 mins is OK but I must admit to being used to a more relaxed time period. Things do happen very fast at 5 mins and any leeway is very short, I'd have thought
pentaxuser
Just out of curiosity, if Rattymouse continues to use HC110 is there any way he can achieve what he needs to and still keep development time to say 7+ mins. I'd be a bit nervous going as low as 5 mins and yet with HC110 this seems to be the only solution. Maybe 5 mins is OK but I must admit to being used to a more relaxed time period. Things do happen very fast at 5 mins and any leeway is very short, I'd have thought
pentaxuser
Start by cutting your agitation to first 30, and then 5 seconds every 30.
Your shadows look empty. What speed are you shooting Tri-x at? But the tried and true rule is expose for shadows and develop for contrast.
How are you mixing your developer. Are you mixing from a stock solution or mixing directly from the syrup?ISO400.
How are you
How are you mixing your developer. Are you mixing from a stock solution or mixing directly from the syrup?
Take a look at this.
http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110/
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