How to print this image...

[Ishotharold]

I toured the national parks in Utah last week and have begun working on some prints, todays work in the darkroom left me with few good prints and lots of wasted paper. As a business major at a school with a less then ideal photo program I learn mostly though trial and error in my spare time, fortunetly I can afford the paper and chemicals to do so right now. I have an image that I'm struggling with direction on how to print. attached is a scanned 8x10 straight print at contrast 3. I think the arch accutaly requires a grade 4 but I don't know how to deal with the mountians, burning is something I'm still learning (I know the concept/theroy, I haven't done it enough to control the mask preceisely, wondering if there would be use for split grade printing in a situation like this? Any advice on this would be appreciated. Thanks.

 

[glbeas]

You might try the grade 3 and do a preflash to bump the highlights in the mountains over the threshold. That would leave just a little burning in here and there with grade 4 to punch up the shadows. Alternately a good graded paper may be what you need to get the midtones right. Post more with your results, it should be interesting to see the evolution of your image.

 

[Ishotharold]

Does a graded paper offer more dynamic range (sorry if that's the wrong term, I'm a digital guy learning to do it the right way now)? Why is it that a graded paper would offer a better solution? I've bene doing this for about a year and there is so much that is still new to me so apologies for the simple questions. Were I to go back I'd think the use of a red filter to darken the blue mountians and enhance the values in the rock would be the easiest way to go. Sadly that is not an option right now.

 

[glbeas]

Graded papers have a different, and sometimes simpler, density curves to them and many prefer them over multigrade for the better separation in the midtones as well as a few other reasons. Do a bit of searching in the forums, theres been a few threads discussing this and is well worth the reading. Looking at the image I'd imagine it would make a nice print at a lower contrast if the development was extended for a little more snap to the shadows.
Something else to consider is the effects of toning on the picture. That can change the tonality in pleasing ways even if the color of the print is not radically altered. Another subject to research!

 

[jovo]

Okay, first scan into photoshop and click on the 'magic wand tool'......kidding


Keep in mind that the mountains should be lighter than the foreground, and their being so offers excellent atmospheric perspective. IOW, it's a good idea to leave them as they are. What you could do, with multi-grade paper, is to burn the sky and the left and right 'sides' of the sky a bit with a grade 0 filter
Doing so will not markedly affect the darker tones of the arch, but will help the viewer stay more within the center of the image. It's subtle, though, so tread lightly. Beyond that, this monitor view is impossible for me to use as a measure of what's really on the actual print, because it looks reasonably good as it is. Good luck!

 

[Blighty]

I think split-grade printing is certainly an option here. Determine your grade 00 and grade 5 exposures in the usual way. When making the print try dodging the foreground shadow areas a little during the G.00 exposure. This will have the effect of raising the contrast in those areas and hopefully provide better separation in the shadows. A bit of G.00 burning top and sides would work well (IMO)

 

[Ole]

I would try graded paper first. Ilfobrom Gallerie, since I happen to have some - and it's a great paper. It's surprising how big a difference this can actually make!

If that isn't enough, lith printing is next on the list. I think this image could look great with the right developer, paper, exposure, snatch point and luck. That last factor is why it's my "last resort".

 

[Ishotharold]

I have done some reading on various items mentioned here and now very much want to pick up something graded, but not sure what combination of papers/developers to go with, I know it's personal preference but I can't try them all right now. My personal taste calls for rich tones that have a silver/mirror type quality to them, is there a good combination of graded paper/developer to achive that type of look? I feel like most of my prints on illford multigrade don't have that look, they seem almost muddy to me in the midtones. Is the silver look acheived through higher silver content in the paper or is that a myth? Some direction would be appreciated here.

 

[Thomas Bertilsson]

I think you have to start by looking at how you develop your negatives. If this is a straight grade 3 print then you couldn't have built much contrast in to begin with. If you're looking for more punch in the highlights you have to start there. Depending on how you expose the negatives, you can add / subtract shadow detail too, which will add / subtract to the 'silvery' look. Many people feel that detail is necessary for a good print, but I am not of that school. I love a thick, rich black that really makes a mark.

Since your scene is fairly evenly lit, perhaps you need to boost your contrast in order to help that arch and its geometry a little bit. It wouldn't be the best technical quality print, but it could be more expressive. I second the opinion from jovo to burn in the sky as well. It is not difficult to do. Just get a piece of paper (opaque) and cut it to the same shape as the rock, or slightly larger, and then you dodge the areas you don't want to 'burn in' (add more exposure to), while those areas that are not covered by your 'tool' get more exposure. If you want to get a good effect with this, it is important to move the cut out tool around so that there are no sharp edges where the burned and not burned areas meet.

I hope that helps a little bit. Try this negative over and over again until you find a solution that prints well. When you're done with it, move on to the next one and make that the best you can. That's the only way to go. Quality over quantity.

- Thomas

 

[Rich Ullsmith]

I was going to say, lith.

 

[Ishotharold]

I got some bergger grade 3 to play with. Where does one lay his hands on galliere? I'm told it's discontinued?

 

[Richard Boutwell]

This looks like fairly easy picture to print. You are already really close with a strait print.

The contrast on my screen looks to be just right, and I would suggest sticking with Grade 3. Though you might want to try other papers-- Kentmere maybe.

Dodging and burning is the easiest way to achieve what you want. First give the normal exposure you have here (maybe less even). Dodge the arch with a mid-size wand while giving a little more to the top section that goes into the sky. Also dodge the lower corners with your hand or a card to balance the brighness of the sky.

Then go back to burn the sky with a card and burn right into the rock and then give a little more to the sides. I think cutting a shape the size of the arch is too complicated, and moving a wand can be just as effective.

As for bumping the constrast a little. Give the print slightly less exposure and develop longer. You will be amazed how holding back the highlights just a little can make the print glow.

Mostly, you need experience printing to find what you can achieve with a certain paper. Practice practice practice. You can do just about anything with dodging and burning, it just takes some time to get the motions down.

Hope that helps.
Richard

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