Mm… where exactly do you buy these chemicals? What’s the name of the shop?
Are the results exactly the same as with the Kodak powder, or very similar?
Hi, I did the tests.
1) The leader got gradually darker and at the time recommended for normal processing at 20ºC, it was black. How much black? I don’t know, I took the film and observed it closely, it was dark. Then I immersed it again for 2 minutes, to see if it went on getting darker. I don’t know for sure if that happened, probably not, cause I couldn’t see any difference.
2) Then I developed a strip of film with the same mix I used for the leader. And I think it came out just fine. As a matter of fact, I overdeveloped +1, because I exposed -1, something I usually do, and the roll I am going to process now will be “pushed” too. I compared the negative with others I processed this way and I don’t see any difference in density. Anyway, what I think is important is that the leader turned black at the normal time of developing.
I also used my 2 years-old mix of fixer (Ilford Rapid Fixer), which I previously tested watching the clearing time. It was just like before. And I know that it is possible to fix a lot of rolls with a mix. So, in my case, the six months recommended by Ilford for a solution of this fixer were also too cautious.
Next weekend, I am going to develop the other roll. If something goes unexpectedly wrong, I let you know.
Thanks again.
Yes, I speak with experience. It's always best to do a clip test with oldish D-76. I've never had any D-76 turn brown, only Dektol paper developer.
I don't know where you would get them in Buenos Aires. There are several online sources but I don't know if they can ship to you.
One of the best known, Photographer's Formulary, says on their web site that they will ship outside the US but can't ship everything. You could contact them to see if you can get the ingredients. You'll need a decent scale but that's readily available from Amazon for not much money.
http://stores.photoformulary.com/terms-conditions/
Results should be the same.
Hi Lemur,
Your bottles look fine for long-term storage and your test results sound positive. Check the writing at the edge of the developed film; if that has a normal density you're good to go.
Fixer should be fine, it doesn't deteriorate from exposure to oxygen like developer does, though you might find flecks of silver if it's been used before. I've stored diluted fixer for years between uses without any problems.
I hope your developing goes well. Have fun.
@kevs Thanks for the tips.
What color are these “flecks of silver”? What I have had, since the beginning (this is my first and only batch of D-76), are floating black particles, after every developing. They are in the used D-76 but some of them go to the stop bath and fixer, and even to the Photoflo after a 30 minutes water wash (unless all the chemicals produce the particles by themselves). The particles are scale-like, I mean, they are flat but with irregular shape. Is this what you are talking about?
I store my D-76 in clear glass bottles and stop using it when a gray participate has formed at the bottom but best to verify as PE described.How do I know if mixed D-76 is still working fine, just looking at it? What are the signs that it has expired?
I have some D-76 in 150 ml glass bottles, just to the top. I mixed it like 2 years ago. In theory, it is good only for 6 months, but I know that it could last more if it is kept in good conditions, without air exposure.
I opened a bottle and it looks good, the same as before, as far as I remember, which is a bit yellowish.
If it looks good, does it work well? Or not necessarily?
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