How to hold the film (and reel) for loading it? Plastic tank

That only took 25 posts. I am glad your problem is solved.

Steve

RalphLambrecht said:

I don't. This gives me a chance to put the film back into the canister if something goes terribly wrong.

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Back in the "dark" ages, Kodak Film cans (grey with black tops, or black with grey or black tops) were considered light tight. (the current ones are clear to make it easier to inspect at airports I guess).

I have had a lab send me back a film that they detected a tear and did not want to process in a grey Kodak can, and was able to get another lab with a dip and dunk machine to process it successfully several weeks later.

If you keep one of the older cans handy, you can stash the film in at any time. While I have not done any tests, I would guess that the Agfa and the Foma/Arista.ultra all black cans are probaly also light tight.

cmacd123 said:

Back in the "dark" ages, Kodak Film cans (grey with black tops, or black with grey or black tops) were considered light tight. (the current ones are clear to make it easier to inspect at airports I guess).

I have had a lab send me back a film that they detected a tear and did not want to process in a grey Kodak can, and was able to get another lab with a dip and dunk machine to process it successfully several weeks later.

If you keep one of the older cans handy, you can stash the film in at any time. While I have not done any tests, I would guess that the Agfa and the Foma/Arista.ultra all black cans are probaly also light tight.

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Are you saying they remove the film from the cartridge in a darkroom or darkbag, found the tear, and sent it back only protected by the plastic canister?

I use Jobo reelsso no ball bearings.
I use my fingers ends to touch lightly the film centre and move it along. I found if you tried to use the thumbs on the film edge you twist and buckle the film.
The most important thing I found is Moisture and Leading edge cutting.
Make sure the film is not colder than the darkroom or moisture will condense on the film and make it sticky. Make sure the darkroom has low levels of humidity. If you sweat make sure the darkroom is not too warm. Make sure the reels are spotless and completely dry. I suggest that you try and make sure the film and the reels are warmer than the darkroom. When I cut the film leader I try and cut the edges just off 90 degrees from the film edge. ie with a very very light chamfer, cut from both sides. If you try to make one cut at 90 degrees one edge will actually end up having a reverse chamfer and stick on the outside of the reel. Do not try to make 45 degree leading edges, they will try to jump out of the reel and make the film contact the reel edge in one spot at it curves.
I can load 2 X 120 roll films if i use this method
PS you do not need to cut the leading edges of roll film as it is factory cut at exactly 90 degrees (the ideal for clean reel entry)
Hope this all helps
Richard.

fotch said:

Are you saying they remove the film from the cartridge in a darkroom or darkbag, found the tear, and sent it back only protected by the plastic canister?

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I think they taped the lid on.

Fellipe de Paula said:

Perkeleellinen, I must say the video you linked just solved every little problem I was having. I finally could load the reel without any problem! You rock! Thanks so much!

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Great!