How to get optimal results from Adox CMS?

[removedacct1]

Suggestions, please, for an exposure + development approach to get optimal results shooting with Adox CMS. I'm trying this emulsion out for the first time, shooting it in the Hasseblad. I do not have the specified Adox developer in my kit, so I will be opting for either Xtol or Rodinal. (Made up the Xtol this morning, so its very fresh)

Let me know what your experiences have been like and if there are things to avoid and things I should definitely do to get ideal results, thanks.

 

[doughowk]

If you are referring to Adox CMS II ISO 20, a fellow photographer in my area has been testing the film. So far, it would seem that the real ISO is nearer 6. And to avoid blownout highlights, it may need a compensating developer such as Diafine. I hope to try it out tomorrow.

 

[removedacct1]

If you are referring to Adox CMS II ISO 20, a fellow photographer in my area has been testing the film. So far, it would seem that the real ISO is nearer 6. And to avoid blownout highlights, it may need a compensating developer such as Diafine. I hope to try it out tomorrow.

Yes, Adox CMS 120 rolls, rated somewhere between 12 and 20 according to Adox lit. My plan is to run it through Xtol and maybe pull it a wee bit. In my use of Xtol with Rollei IR 400, the Xtol appears to suppress over-development of highlights, so we will see what it does with the CMS. Thanks.

 

[piu58]

I have experimented quite a lot with that film. I found out no method to lenghen the exposure scale. If you dilute de developer or take a compensating one, the maximal density is reduced, but the usable exposure scale not.
The adotech developer contauns thiosulfate and may lead to staining. Therefore I don't want to use that. But the exposure scale is much wider with that stuf, comparable with standard films.

 

[darkosaric]

I shoot it at iso 20, using Technidol or Adotech developer: results are more than optimal, I would say excellent - in my standard (that can be different from yours).

 

[removedacct1]

Looks like I will hold off until I can obtain the Adotech developer. I would prefer to obtain as long a tonal scale as possible. Thank you all.

PS: are we talking about extreme contrast akin to Ilford's Pan F, which I find requires careful exposure/development to tame, or even more like lith contrast??

 

[removedacct1]

Thank you Michael - most helpful indeed. I have a much clearer idea of what kind of film this is now. The comparison to Technical Pan gives me a better sense of its characteristics, since I did experiment with Tech Pan in the mid-80s. I'm going to obtain the Adotech developer as prescribed and see how it goes. I'm highly likely to shoot with this film only under controlled, soft lighting, which should be advantageous ;-)

 

[darkosaric]

Couple of examples of old CMS 20 with adotech developer (nikkor 50mm AF-D f1.8, wide open, handheld):

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This one is at f4 or f5,6 ... long time ago, not sure:

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[Old-N-Feeble]

Has anyone tried selenium toning CMS II? If it tones well then wouldn't that lengthen the H&D curve? Of course, some underdevelopment would be needed to decrease contrast first.

 

[Old-N-Feeble]

It adds density to denser areas more so than thinner areas and affected areas are denser when toned. How can that not lengthen the gamma curve?

 

[Old-N-Feeble]

Why do so many people selenium tone there B&W negatives to increase contrast... and maximize density? Why wouldn't that work with CMS 20?

 

[MartinP]

For #15, above.

This film is already very contrasty - there is not going to be a reason to try and make it even harder in contrast, rather the aim is to flatten the curve down which is what the special developer does (assuming the film was given enough exposure).

 

[Gerald C Koch]

Adox CMS is rebranded microfilm. Microfilm has zilch for latitude. Remember that it is designed for exposure under known and unchanging light conditions. It is also high contrast which is why a special developer is needed. My experience with microfilm used for continuous tone subjects has been less than satisfactory.

I would suggest bracketing all your important exposures. To get the best from this film you need to use the Adox developer. Bracketing and the use of a special developer make this an expensive film to use. Good luck.