How to develop Kodak Direct Positive Paper - any thoughts?

[mkillmer]

I just managed to buy a box of Kodak direct positive paper from an eBay seller. Any ideas what developer I need? Is this paper similar to the Harman direct positive paper?

 

[nworth]

That paper is very old. Kodak stopped making it in about 1970. It is a very high speed, orthochromatic paper. Kodak recommended a Wratten No. 2 safelight (dark red). They recommended reversal development very similar to reversal film. The original instructions called for D-88 as the first developer, but a more modern developer could probably be used. This is followed by a rinse, R-9 (dichromate) bleach, rinse, CB-1 clearing bath, and another rinse. From here on, there are three options: you can redevelop in a fogging developer, redevelop in T-19 sulfide redeveloper (which gives sepia prints), or re-expose the film to a 40 watt lamp tor 3 seconds at 8 inches and then redevelop in D-88. Then you wash the film. There is no fix step. Actually you can probably use any standard black and white reversal film process. The paper is rated at ASA 25 speed (tungsten 12), and it was frequently used in a camera.

Kodak D-88 developer for reversal processing
Water (52C) 750 ml
Sodium sulfite (anh) 45 g
Hydroquinone 22.5 g
Boric acid (xtal) 5.5 g
Potassium bromide 2.5 g
Sodium hydroxide 22.5 g
WTM 1 l
Use full strength. Develop Direct Positive Paper 45 seconds at 20C, rinse, bleach for 30 seconds in R-9, rinse, clear in CB-1, rinse, re-expose, redevlop in T-19 or D-88, wash, and dry.

Kodak R-9 bleach for black and white reversal film
Water 1 l
Potassium dichromate 9.5 g
Sulfuric acid (conc) 12 ml
pH at 27C = 0.75
Specific gravity at 27C = 1.018
Bleach film for 50 seconds at 20C or 40 seconds at 35C

1. Develop in D-88 for 45 seconds at 68F.
2. Rinse for at least 15 seconds in running water.
3. Bleach in R-9 for 30 seconds or until image disappears.
4. Rinse in running water for at least 15 seconds.
5. Clear in CB-1 for 30 seconds.
6. Rinse in running water for at least 15 seconds.
7a. Redevelop in either Kodak Direct Positive Redeveloper or Kodak Sulfide Redeveloper T-19 for 60 seconds.
or
7b. Re-expose to white light, then redevelop in D-88 for 30 seconds at 68F
8. Wash in running water for 30 seconds.

Ref: Kodak Pamphlet No. G-14 (63-4-71-F), Direct Positive Photography with KODAK Super Speed Direct Positive Paper.

 

[mkillmer]

nworth - Thanks for that quick reply!

 

[Kimberly Anderson]

I just found a box of this paper dated from 1948. Is it worth even messing with? I can make all my own chems from scratch, but I'm just wondering...

 

[Qebs]

Hello, sorry to bring up an old thread, but does anyone have the book, "Direct Positive Photography with Kodak Super Speed Direct Positive Paper?"

I'm researching diy coating paper.

If anyone knows where I can buy this please be in touch.

Thanks so much!
Be well
Best regards,
Kevin H.

 

[MattKing]

Try starting a Conversation with "laser" (aka Bob Shanebrook) here on Photrio.
He seems to be in the process of editing his apparently huge collection of Kodak publications.
And if you don't already have it, his book "Making Kodak Film" should be in your collection. He is selling another printing run.

 

[Qebs]

Hey MattKing!

Yes, thank you for the a suggestion!

I ordered the book yesterday

I'm also searching for Photo Engineer's book! But probably won't ever find one.

Thanks again/have a great weekend
Cheers

 

[fdonadio]

I'm also searching for Photo Engineer's book! But probably won't ever find one.

I would like to have Ron Mowrey’s (Photo Enginner) book too.

 

[Rhodestorelief]

Sorry to open this old can of.worms but I can't find anything else mentioning this stuff. I have this sealed don't know what it's worth.

 

[MattKing]

Sorry to open this old can of.worms but I can't find anything else mentioning this stuff. I have this sealed don't know what it's worth.

Welcome to Photrio.
Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but that mixture of stuff is unlikely to have much, if any monetary value. Most of it is likely to be degraded past usability, even if the process was still in common use. And I doubt you will find any collectors interested in it.
It would most likely have been used either in an environment that required quick prints - e.g. a newspaper - or a print shop that used techniques and equipment that have fallen out of use.