How to develop fogged film?

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gijsbert

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Hi,
My film from my latest trip has picked up some fogging and I was wondering if there was any adjustment I could make in my development to optimize the outcome.
I was thinking that since fogging means more exposure that maybe under-developing might give me better results than normal development, but not sure.
Any ideas?

Here an example, Delta 400, phone picture on ipad 'light table', top a reference developed 1 year ago, bottom strip fogged developed a few days ago:
IMG_20200228_215421.jpg

simple invert:
IMG_20200228_215421.invert.jpg


Another example, Fujifilm Acros 120, top reference developed last November, bottom fogged developed yesterday:
IMG_20200228_215032.jpg

simple invert:
IMG_20200228_215032.invert.jpg


These are just quick scans to show the difference, the scans can easily be improved. The fogging is more obvious by eye, bu t I hope it's visible. I'm planning to do some enlarger test prints to see how it looks, and if I have enough contrast filter left to improve the contrast of the fogged images.

Pretty sure both Acros rolls came from the same batch, one big order last year before it was discontinued and haven't traveled except via mail to me. Delta 400 was most likely 2 different batches/buys, for my trip I did buy some fresh film but also brought some from previous buys/trips.

The fogged rolls did go through a fair bunch of airport scanners: once in Montreal, 3x Amsterdam new CT? scanners, Lanzerote, Jordan to Israel border, Tel Aviv airport. I didn't really ask for hand checks, since I've had no trouble before with airport scanners, although I never did as many on one trip. I feel a bit dumb about that now, but so it goes.

The fogging could of course have some other cause as well, I don't know if there is some kind of tell.

Cheers, Gijsbert
 

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Andrew O'Neill

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Bummer! I guess I won't be taking any film to Japan next month! What developer are you using? you might be able to rescue the other rolls with the addition a few mls of a 1% solution of benzotriazole.
 
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gijsbert

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Reference rolls were DD-X 1:4 and fogged rolls DD-X 1:9. Just to make sure it wasn't the different dilution I also did a fresh roll in DD-X 1:9 and it looks just like the 1:4 reference.

Btw what is benzotriazole, and where does one get that?
 

Rudeofus

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gijsbert

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If you happen to be in the Netherlands, send me a pm. I can send you some to play with.

That's very generous, thank you, but I'm back in Montreal again. I found some benzotriazole at Argentix. Then an interesting problem: I don't have a scale that can measure half grams!
 

JensH

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Hi,

hmm, it looks as if the outer areas of the film get darker then the image itself...
Is it possible that some light gets onto the film before/while developing - when it is on the reel of your developing tank?
Does the same happen if you develope and prepare the film in total darkness?

Best
Jens
 
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gijsbert

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Hi,

hmm, it looks as if the outer areas of the film get darker then the image itself...
Is it possible that some light gets onto the film before/while developing - when it is on the reel of your developing tank?
Does the same happen if you develope and prepare the film in total darkness?

Best
Jens

Yes, the 120 roll had a bit of play in the unidrum which might cause light leaks apparently (the reels themselves create a light tight column). But with the 35mm I made sure the reel was tight in the unidrum. I load in a dark bag in my darkroom. I've done many rolls in the unidrum without any issues.
 

BSP

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I recently had a batch of 16 rolls of HP5+ that I traveled to and through China with me. The first roll developed was lower in contrast than I expected. So I gave the remaning 15 rolls an extra 25% development time in HC110-B and that restored contrast a bit. It was mostly streetstuff so I print with extra contrast anyway.
 
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gijsbert

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Bummer! I guess I won't be taking any film to Japan next month! What developer are you using? you might be able to rescue the other rolls with the addition a few mls of a 1% solution of benzotriazole.

I just reread this and noticed the 'a few mls'. So I make the 1% solution and then add a tiny bit (say 5ml), and not as I thought after first reading use a 1% solution to dilute the DD-X (say 225ml)?
 

koraks

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So I make the 1% solution and then add a tiny bit (say 5ml)
Yeah, that order of magnitude. It's a pretty strong restrainer. Although likely not strong enough to get you out of this particular hole unharmed, but it won't hurt to try.

Pick up one of those cheap Chinese jewellers scales that go down to 0.01 or even .001g. They're cheap and useful.
 
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Hmm, but how do I make the 1% solution without weighing the powder first (I assume it's powder, I don't know actually).
Making 1 liter of 1% solution means 10 grams in 990 ml of water. This solution has very long shelf life when distilled water is used. 10 grams can be measured on many kind of scales, unlike fractions of grams. (You can scale it - I make 200 ml of solution from 2g of benzotriazole.)
Use 10 ml of 1% solution as equivalent of 0.1 gram of agent.
 
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gijsbert

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Making 1 liter of 1% solution means 10 grams in 990 ml of water. This solution has very long shelf life when distilled water is used. 10 grams can be measured on many kind of scales, unlike fractions of grams. (You can scale it - I make 200 ml of solution from 2g of benzotriazole.)
Use 10 ml of 1% solution as equivalent of 0.1 gram of agent.

Ah, that makes sense, thanks!
 
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