How to clean Coca-Cola bottles?

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MattKing

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AgX

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I use Clamato Juice Bottles - wish they came with plastic cap liners rather than paper ones:
The typical approach at sealing over here is a circular lip molded as part of the cap. No need for a seperate seal.
 

john_s

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........

I dare say in liter or quart sizes, H2O2 sell for less, full of product, than empty "darkroom bottles", so this, IMO, is the best, quick option, and Walmarts are everywhere in a pinch.

Cheers.

And for a new look, you can do your hair too.
 

mgb74

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I find it interesting that you can buy a product in a container for X amount, but to buy just the container costs almost as much (or sometimes more).
 

Anon Ymous

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You might want to store your bottles in a tub of some kind if you use plastic. It can degrade with certain chemicals. Ask me how I know to do this now.......
Sodium hydroxide solution? IME, only this has caused me any problems, but this is a special case. Yes, the bottle eventually cracked and leaked, but I had already put it in another container to be safe.
 

AgX

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PET and strong alkali will lead to fracturing of the PET, thus the bottle.


Which are these? See here:
You say Part C of color developers is bad for PET storage. ONLY with Kodak's RA4 Part C I have found that to be the case. Kodak's Part C (or A or B for that matter) for C-41 poses no risk for PET.
David, sounds like you and I have had similar experience finding out about CD concentrate in PET bottles mine was with an E6 kit, same issue. Stress cracking made the bottle brittle, started to leak.
 
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Personally, I prefer beer bottles; I have two on the go just right now, both 2-litre brown glass bottles. One is from Beau's All Natural Brewing Company, and the other is from the Kichesippi Beer Co. Oh yeah, and the caps are from DeFalco's, a local wine and beer making company.
 

AgX

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But to be fair, how many bottles does the average Apugger need? Would it be so prohibitive due to cost to just buy some glass bottles? I mean standard grade, not Duran with splinter and splash safe coating.


I mean I myself rather sleep over it before buying a camera above 10€, the same time I constantly read about people buying stuff of two magnitudes more regularly. And then we discuss new glass bottles versus used beverage bottles.
All my cameras, accessories and enlargers and processors are 2nd hand, but nevertheless one should be reasonable.
 
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eli griggs

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I see the (heavy walled) hydrogen peroxide bottles as on an equal footing as the camera store bottles, but currently I use Mason Ball Jars with plastic lids for most storage.

A few years back, I used Ragu plastic jars, which are a task to really get clean, to store and pour from all my chemicals.

I had to use Saran Wrap to isolate the contents from the partial metal lid, but never had an issue, as I kept it as a tool in my darkroom, almost from the start of my doing darkroom work.

If you use Ragu jars, you MUST get them free of all tomato, vinegar and fats(?) a process that takes real attention to make happen to the point there is no question in your mind that is is clean.
An alternative for those of use that make runs of small prints, 7x7" square or smaller, is Glad, or Ziploc, stackable, large squarish storage containers.

For a multi-day/week of printing, I just keep my Ansco 130 developer in the sink, as well as fixer, Selenium toner, using the lids that come with the containers, and perhaps some Saran Wrap on the inside top surface of the liquid inside.

This has worked out well for me and testing my fixer keeps things safe enough, plus counting prints, but, finding your own, 'What works best for me' solution, (no pun) may take awhile, as perfect practices for many, or a few, may no give you the work flow that makes sense for your needs or wants.
 
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Donald Qualls

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PET and strong alkali will lead to fracturing of the PET, thus the bottle.

So, not a good idea to store your Parodinal concentrate in PET bottles, then. Thanks, you probably saved me a caustic mess sometime this winter (in the past, I've stored it in used glass jars, but likely would have put it in PET this go-around).
 

gordrob

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Normally I store any mixed chemistry in brown 1L and 2L bottles that came from a pharmacy. These bottles all have narrow mouths and take a little more patience to fill and pour from. If I have working solutions that i am using over a couple days I have started to using PETE 1 bottles that have contained Orange Juice form Tropicana. They have a volume of about 1.5L and are a large mouth bottle and pour easily into tray or tanks quickly. The caps do not have a liner so they can be cleaned along with the bottle in hot water. When I use these bottles if the chemistry is going to be stored in them for more than a day or so I top them off with nitrogen or a shot from a wine preservative. I haven't had a reason to use the wine preservative for wine since this Covid 19 started because I can't remember the last time we needed to re-cork a bottle of wine.
 

jvo

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Unless you have Japanese wide-mouth bottles I had seen some years ago (although smaller capacity), doesn't it bother you to have a container that pours so slowly and is equally inconvenient to fill back? Sure, I'm not answering your question, but good stuff is not a lot of dough.

US Plastic Corporation and of course there a lot of choices past that link of any kind one chooses.

worth every penny.... i use 32oz/950ml for film (2 rolls 120 film in ss tank) and print (the largest i print is 8x10) chemicals - works like a charm - clean, quick and convenient.

i used soda bottle early on, switched to amber glass - as they say across the pond "bob's your uncle!"
 

AgX

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But to be fair, how many bottles does the average Apugger need? Would it be so prohibitive due to cost to just buy some glass bottles? I mean standard grade, not Duran with splinter and splash safe coating.
-) standard glass quality 1000ml amber incl. PP cap 1.70€
-) standard glass quality 1000ml colourless incl. bakelite cap 7€
-) borosilicate lab-quality 1000ml colourless incl. PP cap and antidripping ring 15€
 

MattKing

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Glass bottles concern those of us who work mostly with a single hand.
The ones I use are the smaller ones.
 

MattKing

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I'm not sure I understand your point here. Do you prefer glass, or not?
Glass is slippery and it breaks badly if you drop it.
I can't safely use larger ones - they really demand that you use both hands when you work with them.
The smaller ones I can manage one-handed, and therefor I like them.
250 ml is around the dividing line. Even the 500 ml bottles are really best handled with two hands.
The one litre "growlers" with a finger grip are a bit better, but while I'll risk a litre of beer and a beer glass, I'm not comfortable risking darkroom chemicals, film and shards of glass.
The two litre "growlers" are just too big.
 

AgX

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My hint at 1L glass bottles was only meant give a standard size reference for price comparison.
Moreover I had in mind storing large quantituies of gas-protected concentrates. But of course there is the approach to spread concentraed iover a number of tightly filled bottles. At this approach due to the rise in surface, glass is evenb more appropriate.

At lab grade there are glass bottles more tall than plumb, thus better to grasp, but with higher chance of falling over...
 
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