How to check what is causing lack of clarity?

[stephsleeps]

I got my hands on a canon f1 which seems like great condition... after using it a couple of times- I realized my photos aren’t sharp or clear. It looks like I shot everything on a crappy p+s. Does anyone know how I can check/troubleshoot the issue??

Things to note:
Not a vision or focusing issue (on my end)
The mirror does seem quite spotty (tiny specs that can’t be removed) but overall not bad
The lens is the kit 50mm but I’ve taken pretty clear shots with that lens...
I most likely overdeveloped because my thermometer broke in the process

I’m not so sure how to check if the mirror may possibly be sitting weird but when I click the shutter and it goes up it seems like the right side is a tad slanted so it’s not completely flat.

I haven’t ever experienced what I’m experiencing with this camera ive got clearer shots from an om-2 or mju. I included an example of a couple friends candidly walking across the street. I just feel like absolutely no detail was captured...

 

[grain elevator]

This scan isn't great, but it doesn't show any camera or lens related weakness. It would look better if you pulled the black point down.

 

[whojammyflip]

I got my hands on a canon f1 which seems like great condition... after using it a couple of times- I realized my photos aren’t sharp or clear. It looks like I shot everything on a crappy p+s. Does anyone know how I can check/troubleshoot the issue??

using the lettering on the wire fence you can calculate the resolution. I can make out 'COUNTY' when I zoom in. Given the negative is 24mm wide, and the lettering is by my calculation 1/360 of the frame width, each letter is roughly 2/30 of a mm wide. To resolve that, you need at least 2 lines, so really, your image can resolve something which is 1/30mm on the negative. This is OK. Looks like the shot was handheld, so if you were on a tripod it would be even better. Depending on how you created the digital image shown, the resolution of the camera is higher and you are probably being limited by the digital stage.

 

[Alan Edward Klein]

This scan isn't great, but it doesn't show any camera or lens related weakness. It would look better if you pulled the black point down.

I agree. The black rebate is not black. Old film? Processing issue? Does scan editing need more contrast and black adjustments? What type of film? If chromes, how does the original look?

 

[Alan Edward Klein]

I moved the black point and added a little sharpening.

 

[darkosaric]

Could also be some flare, did you used lens shade?

 

[BrianShaw]

What film was that? Looks like ColorPlus to me. I’d so, that is not unexpected...

With your uncertainty about processing it might be worth another attempt with rigid controls before deciding that there is a mechanical problem.

 

[shutterfinger]

South bay, is that the San Jose, Ca. area?
Mount the camera with lens on a good tripod. Point the camera at a fence or similar at a 20° to 25° angle to the fence. Focus on a point mid frame and make an exposure with the aperture wide open. Check the negative with a loupe and verify the point you focused on is in critical sharp focus. A 50mm lens in reverse makes a good loupe.
1/lens focal length is the slowest speed to use hand held and expect sharp results.

 

[stephsleeps]

What film was that? Looks like ColorPlus to me. I’d so, that is not unexpected...

With your uncertainty about processing it might be worth another attempt with rigid controls before deciding that there is a mechanical problem.

It was Fuji 400- which I don’t normally use so maybe that’s what caused the unsharpness

 

[stephsleeps]

Could also be some flare, did you used lens shade?

No but all of the photos are pretty unclear ones out of the sun, in ambient lighting, etc

 

[stephsleeps]

I agree. The black rebate is not black. Old film? Processing issue? Does scan editing need more contrast and black adjustments? What type of film? If chromes, how does the original look?

Yes I agree as well and I do process all my photos in Lightroom but I wanted to show it without any processing done to it so we can actually see how gross it looks

 

[stephsleeps]

I agree. The black rebate is not black. Old film? Processing issue? Does scan editing need more contrast and black adjustments? What type of film? If chromes, how does the original look?

This was the original scan to show how it actually looks without processing in LR. But no the film is Fuji 400 which I don’t normally use- that could possibly be it. I use the same scanner for all of my film and even so I still get way more clarity. I’m gonna go with it could be that I over developed...I’m going to try some Ektar and see how that goes.

 

[stephsleeps]

This scan isn't great, but it doesn't show any camera or lens related weakness. It would look better if you pulled the black point down.

Yeah I know I just wanted to show the original. I’ve got way better scans from “worse” cameras so that’s why I think it might be a camera or lens issue

 

[Ariston]

I can read "No Dumping, this drains to ocean," which is a pretty small part of a 35mm frame, so I think it is pretty sharp. As far as perceived clarity, lighting can be everything there. The sun is to an angle in front of your friends. If it were to their back, I think you might be more satisfied.

I'm sorry I don't have better suggestions.

 

[Horatio]

It was Fuji 400- which I don’t normally use so maybe that’s what caused the unsharpness

So, try again with your preferred color film.

 

[darkosaric]

No but all of the photos are pretty unclear ones out of the sun, in ambient lighting, etc

Even if you don't see direct flare - there can be an influence of direct light point in the lens. I would try once more with lens shade (if you don't have one - it is easy DIY). On old lenses sun shade is (imo) a must have. In ambient light maybe slower shutter speed or also strong pin light could cause it.

Try to do a flash test through the lens, to see if there are some haze or fog inside. If yes --> sun shade is 101% must use.

 

[stephsleeps]

South bay, is that the San Jose, Ca. area?
Mount the camera with lens on a good tripod. Point the camera at a fence or similar at a 20° to 25° angle to the fence. Focus on a point mid frame and make an exposure with the aperture wide open. Check the negative with a loupe and verify the point you focused on is in critical sharp focus. A 50mm lens in reverse makes a good loupe.
1/lens focal length is the slowest speed to use hand held and expect sharp results.

The South Bay is south west of LA- About 15 minutes... this seems like good advice- I will try it thanks!!!

 

[stephsleeps]

What film was that? Looks like ColorPlus to me. I’d so, that is not unexpected...

With your uncertainty about processing it might be worth another attempt with rigid controls before deciding that there is a mechanical problem.

It’s actually Fuji 400. My preferred stock is probably portra 400 or ektar so I may just be spoiled. I think maybe overdeveloping can cause lack of clarity? What do you think.

 

[ts1000]

I agree with others that there is no problem with the camera.
It focused correctly.

Recommendation
1) add a lens hood to reduce reflections (this was a sunny day it seems).
2) Review that processing did not push the film, use box ISO. And fresh chemistry
3) Confirm that the scanner used produces great pics from other film

So definitely not the camera issue in my view, may be lens (due to reflections, cleaning or its filter).
And then my next check would be film processing. And then verification of the scanner quality (with same settings) for other film.

 

[Sirius Glass]

How would smaller apertures and slower shutter speeds for greater depth of field.

 

[shutterfinger]

Another observation. I downloaded your original photo post. In PS on a 3840 x 2160 laptop screen the bare tree limbs and tower in the upper left of the frame appear slightly sharper than the soles of the shoes and shirts your friends are wearing.
Verify that the view screen is installed correctly, the mirror is sitting correct (may take a trip to the repair shop) and don't rule out camera shake as the F1 is heavier and larger than the OM-2 and MJU making it easier to move during exposure.
Examine the negative with a good loupe on an even light source be it a light box, computer monitor or cell phone screen with a blank text document open for sharpness in the top , middle, bottom left and right.

 

[shutterfinger]

When doing the tripod test ensure the film plane is parallel to the test fence or building.

 

[film_man]

If you put the camera on a desk, start a measuring tape from the film plane (there should be a mark on the body?) and try to focus to 0.5, 1, 2 meters or something by eye you can then check if the focus distance on the lens matches.