How to build a DIY Hasselblad Lens Mount, CAD, Laser Cut, 3D Print or Chinese parts

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I want to build a DIY basic tiltable hasselblad back - so say body - and I need a hasselblad lens mount for Zeiss CF 80mm . I need your advise and knowledge to have one .
It would be pdf, cad , laser cut , 3d print files or chinese part. I dont know what to do.
 
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guangong

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I want to build a DIY basic tiltable hasselblad back - so say body - and I need a hasselblad lens mount. I need your advise and knowledge to have one .
It would be pdf, cad , laser cut , 3d print files or chinese part. I dont know what to do.

I don’t quite understand your query. Hasselblad did make a mount for using micro lenses that was simply a flange with a cylindrical chunk of aluminum with threads drilled into a hole to accept the micro lenses. I used them to make adapters for fitting my Zeiss, Leitz, and Nikon lenses to my 2000FCM. Any machinist can do this kind of work. I still keep a blank mount handy just in case.
 
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Mustafa Umut Sarac
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I don’t quite understand your query. Hasselblad did make a mount for using micro lenses that was simply a flange with a cylindrical chunk of aluminum with threads drilled into a hole to accept the micro lenses. I used them to make adapters for fitting my Zeiss, Leitz, and Nikon lenses to my 2000FCM. Any machinist can do this kind of work. I still keep a blank mount handy just in case.

And I dont know what are you talking about.
 

bdial

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There are a lot of Chinese lens adapters available on ebay for various lens to mirrorless camera combinations. The camera side of these are aluminum, so it wouldn’t be hard to adapt one to whatever you have for a body. However, I don’t think most of them include any way to cock or operate the lens shutter.

Another thought would be to find a Hasselblad bellows to use for its parts. Probably an expensive solution unless you can find one being sold for parts.
 

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So you need a back, mount for the back, lens, mount for the lens, ground glass, body and adjustment mechanism. How about a Arcbody Flexbody? I understand the desire to want to build something but when you're acquiring 90% of the parts for a Hasselblad and attaching them to a diy body, what's the point? It ends up being 10% diy for 90% of the cost.


Could use this : https://www.ebay.com/itm/253279855775

Or a parts ELX body: https://www.ebay.com/itm/125652598779

There are a bunch of ELM parts bodies on ebay, too.


Edit: corrected to say Flexbody.
 
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So you need a back, mount for the back, lens, mount for the lens, ground glass, body and adjustment mechanism. How about an Arcbody? I understand the desire to want to build something but when you're acquiring 90% of the parts for a Hasselblad and attaching them to a diy body, what's the point? It ends up being 10% diy for 90% of the cost.

I have RB67 Back for 10 years. I will use it. If you know how to craft v mount , mount for back ...
 

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This is what I'm talking about. The tools for what you are trying to put together already exist in forms that are readily available and made to work in the way you describe.

What you currently have:
  • RB67 back that needs a P adapter or G adapter... can't remember which.
  • Some method to focus on a ground glass. The RB back adapters were not meant to work this way.
  • A lens that has the shutter cocked internally and by a screw drive. And with a lens mount adapter in place, inaccessible by any tool with which to cock it.
See where I'm going?

Hasselblad, Horseman, Linhof, Mamiya (did the Super 23 have a tilting back?), Rollei, Graflex (and probably others) all made medium format roll film cameras with movements.

One thing that would make your original idea more plausible would be to use a lens in shutter instead of the V mount 80mm.
 
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This is what I'm talking about. The tools for what you are trying to put together already exist in forms that are readily available and made to work in the way you describe.

What you currently have:
  • RB67 back that needs a P adapter or G adapter... can't remember which.
  • Some method to focus on a ground glass. The RB back adapters were not meant to work this way.
  • A lens that has the shutter cocked internally and by a screw drive. And with a lens mount adapter in place, inaccessible by any tool with which to cock it.
See where I'm going?

Hasselblad, Horseman, Linhof, Mamiya (did the Super 23 have a tilting back?), Rollei, Graflex (and probably others) all made medium format roll film cameras with movements.

One thing that would make your original idea more plausible would be to use a lens in shutter instead of the V mount 80mm.

Thank you very much. Mount is 65 dollars at your link. Is it possible to find cheaper.
OR may be I can laser cut 3 sheets of small steel sheets and glue them. That cost me 15 dollars or so.
I am trying to build the parts by myself , do you think its doable ?
65 dollars is serious money here and I want to do bymyself . May be - there are free STL files to 3d print for body cap , I can reverse engineer. It would cost me 6 dollars or less. The caps are working.
I dont need glass , acrylic does the job.

I dont need RB67 Back adapter , I found a website makes rb67 back pinhole camera.
There is the back , they attach to the body with few positive -male -role playing screw heads and the rb67 back plays female negative role and joint is so strong. BACK LOCKS ON TO BODY SCREW HEADS.

I am building a tiltable view camera , no need to any hurry. There is always time to cock the lens. I think I will buy a 150 dollars 150mm sonnar cf. I think possible to buy from APUG.
 
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lxdude

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A repairman might have a mount from a parts camera.
 
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A repairman might have a mount from a parts camera.

Would you suggest few repairman from us or europe ?
And is there any screws to attach the mount to the laser cut aluminum or stainless plate ? How hasselblad mounts attachs to the body ?
 
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OAPOli

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Maybe I'm missing something. But when a Hasselblad lens is cocked, the shutter is open. When it's fired the shutter briefly closes to allow the mirror and baffles to clear, then cycles at the proper timing. I don't see how that could work in a view type camera.
 
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Maybe I'm missing something. But when a Hasselblad lens is cocked, the shutter is open. When it's fired the shutter briefly closes to allow the mirror and baffles to clear, then cycles at the proper timing. I don't see how that could work in a view type camera.

I have just posted my thread above with two videos. I hope it clears the problem. I think they do something when shutter opens with the help of cable release and close it again.
 

ic-racer

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Get an SL66:

Screen Shot 2022-12-08 at 9.08.12 AM.png
 

OAPOli

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I have just posted my thread above with two videos. I hope it clears the problem. I think they do something when shutter opens with the help of cable release and close it again.

It seems a half-press of the release closes the shutter and a full press completes the cycle.

This is a difficult project. I'd say first get or borrow a lens. Get a rear lens cap (3d print? check Thingiverse), cut it and glue on a board as a lens mount. Then figure out a mechanism to release the shutter when the lens is mounted. The shutter can be released manually via the little pin next to the cocking screw.
 

lxdude

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Would you suggest few repairman from us or europe ?
And is there any screws to attach the mount to the laser cut aluminum or stainless plate ? How hasselblad mounts attachs to the body ?

I don't have Hasselblad, so I can't suggest a repairman, but you should be able to find one or more in Europe.
It appears that the bayonet is part of the front plate. So you can just get the whole front plate. You might not need to make a separate plate at all.
Look at this manual and you will see what I'm talking about.

 
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eli griggs

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Thank you very much. Mount is 65 dollars at your link. Is it possible to find cheaper.
OR may be I can laser cut 3 sheets of small steel sheets and glue them. That cost me 15 dollars or so.
I am trying to build the parts by myself , do you think its doable ?
65 dollars is serious money here and I want to do bymyself . May be - there are free STL files to 3d print for body cap , I can reverse engineer. It would cost me 6 dollars or less. The caps are working.
I dont need glass , acrylic does the job.

I dont need RB67 Back adapter , I found a website makes rb67 back pinhole camera.
There is the back , they attach to the body with few positive -male -role playing screw heads and the rb67 back plays female negative role and joint is so strong. BACK LOCKS ON TO BODY SCREW HEADS.

I am building a tiltable view camera , no need to any hurry. There is always time to cock the lens. I think I will buy a 150 dollars 150mm sonnar cf. I think possible to buy from APUG.

Use brass or bronze no steel, so the mount runs smoothly in the steel body or lens receptacles.
 

epatsellis

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If you search for a Hasselblad #40177, you’ll find it the easiest way to mount a V series lens, cocking and firing still will need to be worked out however.
 

Sirius Glass

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With all the work you will be doing, you would be better off just buying a FlexBody.
 

epatsellis

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I don't know, I recently found the front for the older style bellows on eBay. for around $25, I have a flange that will allow you to mount the lens, cock and fire the shutter. Patience is required however.


erie
 

Hassasin

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I want to build a DIY basic tiltable hasselblad back - so say body - and I need a hasselblad lens mount for Zeiss CF 80mm . I need your advise and knowledge to have one .
It would be pdf, cad , laser cut , 3d print files or chinese part. I dont know what to do.

If you look at the already mentioned Flexbody, you should quickly see this is not a simple DIY.

I am not saying that to build a copy of Flexbody, but rather putting all the pieces together so they will actually work in a similar fashion.

Also, don't forget you will need a way to see what you focus on. The moment you tilt you mess everything up unless you can SEE/CHECK what you are looking at before film back is attached to take the photo. You could make it and use some cheap focusing screen from China, but that again is a complex job in order to maintain film plane between screen and magazine as you switch.. But then even more, as you tilt things change on the screen (so Hasselblad made add-on corrective screens (slides) to help see better in tilted position.

So if you were to use already available focusing adapter (SWC/Flexbody/Arcbody use them), that alone would be pretty money (500-600 with slides, if you can find it). But you are trying to put together a Hass lens with RB67 back, so that is a one-off project, where nothing off market fits except some part from RB to mount back and some part from HASS to mount lens.

All in all, possible it is. In order to save money? No. It will be more expensive and not even close to as good as what has already been made. Barring some major compromises that will make it a lot of guessing (read: impractical) in actual use.
 
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