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How to agitate Kodak xtol

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I notice there are a lot of different opinions, and I understand there are no correct way, but what do you recommend? I push TRI-X 400 to 1600 and use 1:1
 
I don't use much Kodak film and there are many different recommendations for agitation, but I typically agitate for 20 seconds initially and then 10s at the end of each minute. Agfa used to recommend 5s every 30s after an initial agitation of either 30s or a minute. All will achieve pretty much the same result.
 
  • By hand: Fill chemical. Thump hard on linoleum block. Five inversions. Then every 30 seconds five inversions.
  • By Jobo processor: Let the machine do it.
 
I notice there are a lot of different opinions, and I understand there are no correct way, but what do you recommend? I push TRI-X 400 to 1600 and use 1:1

Yes, there is a correct way and that is what Kodak recommends. Their method can be found in Kodak publications for various films and the developer itself. If you use a machine then follow the manufactures instructions.

http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/j109/j109.pdf

Here is the publication on Kodak Tri-X films giving their recommendations for pushing. They are quite specific in the amount of pushing that will still result in a quality image. See the bottom of page 6.

http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/f4017/f4017.pdf

'Why is it so difficult to "google" the information and then follow it? Isn't that the intent of the internet, information on demand. The entire process took less than 5 minutes to find the appropriate documents and post the links. Perhaps I am being a bit tough. But questions of a general nature, such as agitation, will usually get you dozens of opinions on APUG, most of them conflicting and many plain wrong. In this case best to go directly to the "horse's mouth", in this instance Kodak.
 
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The correct way is whatever way that works for you in the sense that it is practical and gives good and consistent (repeatable) results. Most of us have developed a preference over time that depends on factors like their specific choice of equipment (tank tpye), film, developer etc pp This is why you will get six different answers when asking five different people, and whatever works for one of us must not necessarily work for someone else.

As a beginner start by sticking to the instructions, that is, use the Kodak routine. It should work well with Tri-X. If you have specific questions about this routine or encounter problems, come back here to discuss them.
 
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I just feel that Kodaks recommendation was too little. I usually use agitate for the first minute, then 5 seconds every one minute. It will be my first time trying xtol, so I wanted to ask.
 
Xtol is my main developer. My routine is initially 30 seconds of rolling inversions (usually 9 or 10 rotations) then 4 inversions at the 60 second mark and every minute thereafter. 4 inversions at my gentle rotations is about 10 seconds. I also check the temperature after the first minute and about halfway through the estimated total development time. I adjust final time based on starting and interim readings and ambient temperature. I find 60 second intervals is good for thermometer readings to settle; a bit more relaxing without need to watch the clock and other little jobs can be done in between with less time pressure. Perhaps not as "scientific" as the Kodak boffins but has worked well for me for 15 years or so!
 
I just feel that Kodaks recommendation was too little. I usually use agitate for the first minute, then 5 seconds every one minute. It will be my first time trying xtol, so I wanted to ask.

Kodak knows what they are talking about. Until recently they maintained the most extensive photographic R&D department on the planet, maybe they still do. So, their recommendations are always a good starting point. If you have specific problems or are not getting a particular result you are after, then you can experiment. Otherwise, there's no reason to deviate from the tried-and-true. Agitating continuously for the first minute may or may not cause problems. With 120 film over-agitation often causes unevenness at the edges.

Doremus
 
I notice there are a lot of different opinions, and I understand there are no correct way, but what do you recommend? I push TRI-X 400 to 1600 and use 1:1
Agitation affects contrast, which is a variable you can control in development. Hence there are more than one way to do it. You can use Kodak's suggestion (5 inversions in the first 30 sec.; repeat every 30 seconds). Ilford's is different (4 inversions in the first 10 seconds, repeat every min.). I've used both to develop Kodak & Ilford films in xtol. I tend to like Ilford's approach.

Experiment and pick the one you like. The key is to avoid over-/uder-agitation, bromide streaks, and etc.
 
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Processes like development and fixing are diffusion controlled. This means that agitation has a limited effect on development. In fact there is actually a point where agitation ceases to have any further effect. That is why it may appear that manufacturers like Kodak and Ilford recommend less agitation than may seem useful. However both companies have done research on the question and therefor go with their recommendations.
 
Just to specify, what does Kodak mean by their explanation. Do they mean that each agitation should take 1 second, which translates in to total agitation time of 5 seconds. Or do they mean that each agitation should take 5 seconds?


  1. Provideinitialagitationofupto5cycles,depending on your results. For KODAK PROFESSIONAL T-MAX Films, provide initial agitation of 5 to 7 cycles in
    5 seconds. For an invertible tank, one cycle consists of rotating the tank upside down and then back to the upright position. For a noninvertible tank, one cycle consists of sliding the tank back and forth over a 10-inch (25.4 cm) distance. With tanks that have a handle for turning the reel, rotate the reel back and forth gently through about one-half turn at a rate of one cycle per second during initial and subsequent agitation. Steps 2 through 4 will take approximately 7 to 20 seconds, depending on the type of tank.
 
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Five vigorous agitation cycles, each one second long.

Agitation is used to replace exhausted chemicals with fresh chemicals, and to ensure that there are fresh chemicals available to diffuse into the emulsion.

When you start developing a film, all the developer is fresh, so a relatively small amount of agitation is fine.

As development proceeds, it is the regularity of the replacement of old with fresher chemicals that matters the most.

Kodak's recommendations are particularly well suited to shorter development times.
 
Thank you everyone!

That's really vigorously. I tend to agitate slowly for the first minute, then for 5 seconds every minute. So many options!
 
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