How often do you 'dress' your leather straps...

[eli griggs]

... and what with?

When do you replace old straps and have you ever dropped a camera or bag because the leather strap just resigned in the middle of a shoot?

 

[BrianShaw]

I stopped using leather straps about 40 years ago.

 

[Sirius Glass]

My only leather straps are on my 30mm Fisheye and 500mm Hasselblad lens cases and I hold the lens cases when I use the straps because they are old and one shows signs of wear.

 

[eli griggs]

My only leather straps are on my 30mm Fisheye and 500mm Hasselblad lens cases and I hold the lens cases when I use the straps because they are old and one shows signs of wear.

Did you ever treat the leather with saddle soap or other material?

If you consider replacing them, I will suggest double thick, quality bridle leather, twice or three times as wide, for a really strong carry strap; a narrow, single thickness width will no be comfortable if the leather is doubled and no increased; also have the strap edges rounded for comfort as well.

You could also make your own by sourcing the leather in single thicknesses and having a local luggage repair shop, or saddle maker, (expensive) put them together, with waxed #4 linen cord, or better.

You can also get the leather worker to replace the case lugs and leather pieces that hold them at the same time.

For extended trips with leather straps, bags, etc, you also might consider buying a Harbor Freight leather/canvas stitching tool, and some small rolls of cordage, linen, or hemp or artificial sinew, just in case something gives and you need to repair it yourself.

I wear a Filson Belt made of vegetable tanned, double thick bridle leather, and other than lightly coloured stretch markings, think it's good for another 20-25 years as a casual and utility everyday belt.

 

[4season]

Usually the leather accessories are already in poor condition by the time I take delivery, and saddle soap doesn't seem to be of much help with leather which is already hard and brittle? Definitely wouldn't mind learning how to make my own brand-new camera accessories.

 

[GRHazelton]

I've heard Lexol leather dressing recommended. I have a Minolta Autocord case which needs some TLC and resewing. I intend to use saddle soap and then Lexol before sewing to, I hope, avoid having the old leather from damage from the stitching. My Wife used saddle soap on a tired looking Coach leather bag. Looks like new now!

 

[Sirius Glass]

Did you ever treat the leather with saddle soap or other material?

If you consider replacing them, I will suggest double thick, quality bridle leather, twice or three times as wide, for a really strong carry strap; a narrow, single thickness width will no be comfortable if the leather is doubled and no increased; also have the strap edges rounded for comfort as well.

You could also make your own by sourcing the leather in single thicknesses and having a local luggage repair shop, or saddle maker, (expensive) put them together, with waxed #4 linen cord, or better.

You can also get the leather worker to replace the case lugs and leather pieces that hold them at the same time.

For extended trips with leather straps, bags, etc, you also might consider buying a Harbor Freight leather/canvas stitching tool, and some small rolls of cordage, linen, or hemp or artificial sinew, just in case something gives and you need to repair it yourself.

I wear a Filson Belt made of vegetable tanned, double thick bridle leather, and other than lightly coloured stretch markings, think it's good for another 20-25 years as a casual and utility everyday belt.

Saddle soap would not make a difference due to the wear. I cannot match the leather. Hence see my previous remarks.

 

[jvo]

huberds shoe grease - on all leather...

 

[eli griggs]

I have a small, soft flexible leather bag, that started to dry out and turned to Saddle Soap to first clean it and then Neat's foot oil, several complete goings over, to give the old leather a second life.

I only gave the strap a single treatment of Neat's, as I did no want a significant increase in the "stretch" factor, which, in my observation, increases with applications.

The bag is tan, and well worn, and nicely mottled in colour, old skin oils and the Neat's, but I'm happy to carry it with a slightly less heavy load (I think the Neat's made it a little easier to push a hole into the leather) seeing how I carry so much kit is multiple bags these days.

It's interesting to see what others are using, and I hope this thread will continue, and include reasons for choices of soaps and oils, etc.

Be Well, Be Happy and, Godspeed to all.

 

[GKC]

Saddle soap cleans, it does not preserve in the strictest sense, but clean leather is happy leather.
Pure Neatsfoot oil (neatsfoot compounds can harm stitching, so you'll want 100% neatsfoot) is good, as is beeswax.

 

[eli griggs]

Saddle soap cleans, it does not preserve in the strictest sense, but clean leather is happy leather.
Pure Neatsfoot oil (neatsfoot compounds can harm stitching, so you'll want 100% neatsfoot) is good, as is beeswax.

You're right, soap cleans, and I'll have to keep an eye on the stitching to see if it is has an effect on it from the treatment.

I suppose I should try a microcrystalline wax on a never ready case for comparison, in weather.

I wonder how it performs in sub-freezing conditions?

Cheers

 

[Roger Thoms]

This is what I use on my leather camera straps, works great. https://www.obenaufs.com/natural-preserving-oils-p/leather-oil.htm

Roger

 

[eli griggs]

This is what I use on my leather camera straps, works great. https://www.obenaufs.com/natural-preserving-oils-p/leather-oil.htm

Roger

Cheers, I'll keep an eye out the next time I look for oil based conditioner.

 

[awty]

Saddle soap cleans, it does not preserve in the strictest sense, but clean leather is happy leather.
Pure Neatsfoot oil (neatsfoot compounds can harm stitching, so you'll want 100% neatsfoot) is good, as is beeswax.

Yes thats what I use. Some leather is too far gone and no amount of oil will help. Beeswax is a bit more work,doesnt absorb as well, probably better at weather proofing. Haven't tried Rodgers selection, looks like the best of both worlds.

 

[Bill Burk]

Craziest thing I found a Photoflex strap in a box of old stuff. It looked like the cheesiest thing. Couple of split rings at either end of a strip of wetsuit material. But it is the most comfortable strap I ever used.

 

[eli griggs]

Neoprene is a nice material and like it in a wet suit, but I'd feel a little more secure using it as a camera bag strap if it had a couple or rows of furniture thread, or No. 4 waxed Linen thread, running down both sides, "Just in case...".

Cheers

 

[GKC]

Peccards is a good, easy to apply bees wax formula

 

[Ares_der_Ruderer]

I exclusively use this product:

It is almost miraculous for anything leather. Made for saddles, but I've been using it for camera gear and my WW2 leather reproduction equipment. Unlike other leather treatments, it does not soften the leather at all, just serves to preserve,maintain and keep the leather supple, which is what you want as oversoftening the leather can lead to tears, especially if you forget to regularly treat and let it dry. It can also serve to sometimes "revive" vintage hardened/brittle leather gear, but results will vary depending on how far gone the item in question is.

 

[eli griggs]

Cheers, this sounds good to me as in the long ago
past, I over softened a pair of every day boots, learning a valuable lesson.

Currently, I have a double thick bridle leather belt that I want to treat, without making it 'soft', so I'll likely try to this to see if I like it.

Be Safe, Be Happy.

 

[warden]

Once a year with saddle soap and Obenaufs seems to do the trick.

 

[c.d.ewen]

Here's another "horsey" product, available at upscale tack shops (and Amazon) : Effax Leatherbalm. 110 year old Germany company. Contains lanolin, avocado oil and beeswax.
Just picked up an old Leica III camera case with a real stiff strap. One heavy application of this stuff and the strap is supple as new.

Charley

 

[Sirius Glass]

I exclusively use this product:

It is almost miraculous for anything leather. Made for saddles, but I've been using it for camera gear and my WW2 leather reproduction equipment. Unlike other leather treatments, it does not soften the leather at all, just serves to preserve,maintain and keep the leather supple, which is what you want as oversoftening the leather can lead to tears, especially if you forget to regularly treat and let it dry. It can also serve to sometimes "revive" vintage hardened/brittle leather gear, but results will vary depending on how far gone the item in question is.

Thank you. I just orders some. It is no longer available locally due to COVID shutting down stores.

 

[rick shaw]

I dress straps and strops every 6 months, whether they need it or not.

 

[Auer]

Mink Oil on my Gordie straps a few times a year, maybe. Check for damage and replace as needed. I don't really use leather for much.

I have a few collectible rifles with leather slings that I just keep in a moisure controlled gun cabinet and wipe down once a year or so.

 

[Ares_der_Ruderer]

Mink Oil on my Gordie straps a few times a year, maybe. Check for damage and replace as needed. I don't really use leather for much.

I have a few collectible rifles with leather slings that I just keep in a moisure controlled gun cabinet and wipe down once a year or so.

Mink oil oversoftens the leather even after a single application. I would not recommend it save for when you first start treating hardened vintage gear.