How nuts are you about temperature?

[takilmaboxer]

Which store? I wanna look...I don't drive a Lexus and I'm happy to talk to kids. My cars are newer than most of my cameras, but not all of my film.

This thread has diverged significantly and it looks like most of the 0.1° advocates have given up on the rest of us and left. OF COURSE time and temperature are variables that need to be controlled. What range is acceptable to produce results that are negligibly different was the point I was pursuing. Time is relatively easy to control. Temperature is relatively easy to control at the beginning...

Hey Mavis, in Cedar Crest, across Highway 14 and just south of Triangle Market. Only camera in there right now is an old Spotmatic with the radioactive lens.

 

[Vaughn]

I survived a Richter 7.1 in Arcata, California. I ran outside, where I could see actual waves moving across the pavement and light poles waving in the breeze. That night there was a 6.9 aftershock. I could see earthquakes lights to the south near the epicenter and my bed was rocked across the room with me in it. Scary!

Those earthquake lights were probably transformers blowing in Eureka due to power lines shorting out. I was looking in that direction also. It was dramatic...but SOP for up here.

 

[Juan Valdenebro]

I use 21 Celsius for my D-76, and in this city my chemicals stay at 20-22 indoors, so after they're at 21, I use a big bowl with water at 21, to surround the tank. If the day's cold I have a cup of hot water to make the bowl's water stay at 21 during development, and when the day's hot, I have a glass of chilled water...
Without hydroquinone, I have data for several higher temperatures as Matt King said.
I use all liquids at exactly the same temperature, including the final wash.

 

[takilmaboxer]

Correction-the Spotmatic sold to a UNM student. His girlfriend was scared of the lens
The earthquake lights were real; I was trained as a geologist and was living in a Fickle-Hilltop house with a clear view to the south; Eureka was to the west of south, and the lights were in the direction of the epicenter. Man I wish I could have photographed them, but they were brief. They are an active area of research these days but back then (1980s) folks were skeptical. Thought to be a type of static electricity. Yup quakes are common there. Bolt your water heater to the wall and keep your cameras in a safe place!
Sorry to hijack the thread...

 

[mshchem]

Develop reversal films, b+w or color. You will soon get serious about time, temperature and replenishment.

The nature of negative films is you can adjust for inconsistencies when you print. By keeping negative processing in control, time, temperature, and replenishment, it makes the printing process much easier. When I print I can use a prior session as a remarkably close starting point. If the magnification is the same the exposure times should be very close to the previous print.

Buy a Kodak Darkroom Dataguide, these are amazing little devices. Cost 10 bucks on Ebay, two decent inexpensive thermometers, cell phone for timing and datasheets.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Correction-the Spotmatic sold to a UNM student. His girlfriend was scared of the lens
The earthquake lights were real; I was trained as a geologist and was living in a Fickle-Hilltop house with a clear view to the south; Eureka was to the west of south, and the lights were in the direction of the epicenter. Man I wish I could have photographed them, but they were brief. They are an active area of research these days but back then (1980s) folks were skeptical. Thought to be a type of static electricity. Yup quakes are common there. Bolt your water heater to the wall and keep your cameras in a safe place!
Sorry to hijack the thread...

How can I schedule for the next earthquake so I can be ready ahead of time. Also where should I aim the camera?

 

[drmoss_ca]

I've got to the point where I can recognise 20ºC with my fingers under a running tap. I usually check I'm right with a thermometer, then use the water for diluting developer, doing a pre-soak and maybe keeping a jug of water if using a developer that doesn't require stop bath. After that, for washes, it's fingers and knowing where the taps were set that controls matters.

 

[Sirius Glass]

I've got to the point where I can recognise 20ºC with my fingers under a running tap. I usually check I'm right with a thermometer, then use the water for diluting developer, doing a pre-soak and maybe keeping a jug of water if using a developer that doesn't require stop bath. After that, for washes, it's fingers and knowing where the taps were set that controls matters.

I never got my fingers calibrated temperature wise, so I check what the thermostat shows and then I check the temperature on the Jobo or the temperature of the chemicals sitting out on the counter. Of course if I am going to develop film then I have to wait for the water bath, the chemicals and the tank to come to temperature.

 

[Dr. no]

Correction-the Spotmatic sold to a UNM student. His girlfriend was scared of the lens

Thanks, I don't take 14 very often but will look out next time...

 

[Vaughn]

I've got to the point where I can recognise 20ºC with my fingers under a running tap. I usually check I'm right with a thermometer, then use the water for diluting developer, doing a pre-soak and maybe keeping a jug of water if using a developer that doesn't require stop bath. After that, for washes, it's fingers and knowing where the taps were set that controls matters.

I process carbon prints at 120F...my hands are pretty good at feeling for that temperature. Granted the range of usable temps is wider (105F to 120F) and less time-tied than silver printing. Plus over 120F starts to hurt my hands, so that is easy to judge.
Besides that, my fingers get me close enough to start checking with a thermometer.

 

[Steve York]

Ha, ha, my lousy "sunny 16" practice will make more of a difference then keeping exact temps. I get close then adjust the times. It's all just a hobby for me.

 

[Silverinsunlight]

Ha, ha, my lousy "sunny 16" practice will make more of a difference then keeping exact temps. I get close then adjust the times. It's all just a hobby for me.

I use a cooking thermometer that I cross check with a 40 dollar digital thermometer. I worry a lot more about my tap water, so I use distilled water for everything but the middle rinses. Standardizing procedure helps a lot-until my favorite film is discontinued.Then the testing cycle starts all over again. I expect it will eventually come out that Perutz and GAF have been making all of the mystery films we've been purchasing for these past thirty years.