Hey Mavis, in Cedar Crest, across Highway 14 and just south of Triangle Market. Only camera in there right now is an old Spotmatic with the radioactive lens.
Hey Mavis, in Cedar Crest, across Highway 14 and just south of Triangle Market. Only camera in there right now is an old Spotmatic with the radioactive lens.Which store? I wanna look...I don't drive a Lexus and I'm happy to talk to kids. My cars are newer than most of my cameras, but not all of my film.
This thread has diverged significantly and it looks like most of the 0.1° advocates have given up on the rest of us and left. OF COURSE time and temperature are variables that need to be controlled. What range is acceptable to produce results that are negligibly different was the point I was pursuing. Time is relatively easy to control. Temperature is relatively easy to control at the beginning...
Those earthquake lights were probably transformers blowing in Eureka due to power lines shorting out. I was looking in that direction also. It was dramatic...but SOP for up here.I survived a Richter 7.1 in Arcata, California. I ran outside, where I could see actual waves moving across the pavement and light poles waving in the breeze. That night there was a 6.9 aftershock. I could see earthquakes lights to the south near the epicenter and my bed was rocked across the room with me in it. Scary!
Correction-the Spotmatic sold to a UNM student. His girlfriend was scared of the lens
The earthquake lights were real; I was trained as a geologist and was living in a Fickle-Hilltop house with a clear view to the south; Eureka was to the west of south, and the lights were in the direction of the epicenter. Man I wish I could have photographed them, but they were brief. They are an active area of research these days but back then (1980s) folks were skeptical. Thought to be a type of static electricity. Yup quakes are common there. Bolt your water heater to the wall and keep your cameras in a safe place!
Sorry to hijack the thread...
I've got to the point where I can recognise 20ºC with my fingers under a running tap. I usually check I'm right with a thermometer, then use the water for diluting developer, doing a pre-soak and maybe keeping a jug of water if using a developer that doesn't require stop bath. After that, for washes, it's fingers and knowing where the taps were set that controls matters.
Correction-the Spotmatic sold to a UNM student. His girlfriend was scared of the lens
I process carbon prints at 120F...my hands are pretty good at feeling for that temperature. Granted the range of usable temps is wider (105F to 120F) and less time-tied than silver printing. Plus over 120F starts to hurt my hands, so that is easy to judge.I've got to the point where I can recognise 20ºC with my fingers under a running tap. I usually check I'm right with a thermometer, then use the water for diluting developer, doing a pre-soak and maybe keeping a jug of water if using a developer that doesn't require stop bath. After that, for washes, it's fingers and knowing where the taps were set that controls matters.
Ha, ha, my lousy "sunny 16" practice will make more of a difference then keeping exact temps. I get close then adjust the times. It's all just a hobby for me.
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