Thats not what mine says:Paterson 120 reels require approximately 600mL (well 20 ounces anyway) not 500mL.
Is just confusing because they say use that much for one roll but never say how much to use if you wind two rolls into one reel! Since i'm adding more tape and more surface area within the same volume of liquid, would it be okay? So thanks for confirmation!Ilford says to use a minimum 100ml of developer stock solution per 80 sq in of film - ie per 135-36/ 120 film. In other words, 250ml of developer stock mixed 1:1 with water to make 500ml will be fine for 2 rolls of 120.
How come? I've done it before and it worked fine, just forgot how much I used.Do not roll two films onto one reel.
Is just confusing because they say use that much for one roll but never say how much to use if you wind two rolls into one reel! Since i'm adding more tape and more surface area within the same volume of liquid, would it be okay? So thanks for confirmation!
Thanks man, good to hear someone else has done this before and can confirm!You're overthinking this - if you can develop 2 rolls of 135 in a tank, you can develop 2 rolls of 120 - both equal the same surface area to all intents & purposes. There are no issues with putting 2 rolls of 120 onto a Paterson reel - I do it routinely. I've never had any issue with 4 rolls of 120 in 1000ml of ID11 at 1:1 that could be attributed to the developer.
"+1" doesnt really contribute anything to this discussion without any reasoning when I've successfully done it before...
Please dont tell me not to do it just because you may be incapable of doing so, thank you.
No, you prevent overlap by folding the tape at the end of each roll over and making the tape heads meet so they cant collide.You may have done this before and so far had good luck, but the reels are not designed to take more than one film. One day when you do this you may find the second film overlaps the first film, damaging development or fix of a few frames and sods law states that it will be on a keeper frame.
No, you prevent overlap by folding the tape at the end of each roll over and making the tape heads meet so they cant collide.
You can physically cover a roll of 35mm or 120 film with diluted D-76 1:1 and still not provide the recommended amount of D-76 stock solution per unit area of film being processed.
All that really means from a practical viewpoint... is that your development time... may need to be a little longer than the manufacturer's recommended development time... to achieve the same contrast they intended you to get if you followed the recommendations.
It'll make a difference (which I could measure because I do that sensitometry stuff - we could argue it might even be within a normal margin of error), but you probably wouldn't notice it or be bothered by it.
You're not starving your film, you're just putting it on a little diet. It'll be fine.
Oh, about the two rolls on one spiral? That sounds mechanically risky.
Oh, about the two rolls on one spiral? That sounds mechanically risky.
Butt them end-to-end and use the tape that's already there to stick them together. Easy peasy.
I've always interpreted the instructions from Kodak to mean (approximately) 2 ounces of stock D-76 were required per 4x5 sheet of film, which is the equivalent of 8 ounces of stock D-76 per 8x10 sheet which is equivalent of a 120 roll or a 135-36 roll.
Correct me if I've always been wrong but...
Mixed 1:1 according to that guideline, I interpret the required amount of liquid to develop 4 rolls of 135-36 to be 64 ounces, which doesn't fit in the 32 ounce tank that I use to develop four rolls of 135-36...
The data sheet for D-76 explains that you can "extend the useful capacity" by developing 10% longer... (that's kind of where I was going with this... it's impractical to bathe 4 rolls of 35mm film in 64 ounces of liquid when a 32 ounce tank fits them much more conveniently... so I always use the amount of liquid that fills the tank).
http://imaging.kodakalaris.com/sites/prod/files/files/resources/j78.pdf
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