how many developers do you use, or have you settled on one

[removed account4]

Do they taste any good? (Before the ansco)


~Stone

Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1, 5DmkII / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk

i drink a little bit of the coffee each time i make a batch
it is typical of indonesian coffee a floral bouquet, no acid and heavy body - really "earthy" ...
i would recommend using it for film and buying something else to drink ...

 

[Bill Burk]

...
i would recommend using it for film and buying something else to drink ...

I always get a laugh out of this advice...

 

[Pioneer]

i drink a little bit of the coffee each time i make a batch
it is typical of indonesian coffee a floral bouquet, no acid and heavy body - really "earthy" ...
i would recommend using it for film and buying something else to drink ...

Actually at one time I was traveling to PNG fairly regular and picking up dried arabica beans. They were very inexpensive and I found the coffee to be very good. You have to understand, some of us were actually raised on REAL, hard-boiled, cowboy coffee, not that wussy stuff they sell at Starbucks and such!

 

[StoneNYC]

Actually at one time I was traveling to PNG fairly regular and picking up dried arabica beans. They were very inexpensive and I found the coffee to be very good. You have to understand, some of us were actually raised on REAL, hard-boiled, cowboy coffee, not that wussy stuff they sell at Starbucks and such!

Starbucks is actually pretty strong compared to most other places... but yes I've drank coffee the cowboy method.. throw grinds in a cup, throw hot water in a cup, drink ... grinds and all ... puts hair on your chest!

 

[Pioneer]

Starbucks is actually pretty strong compared to most other places... but yes I've drank coffee the cowboy method.. throw grinds in a cup, throw hot water in a cup, drink ... grinds and all ... puts hair on your chest!

Close, but not quite. You put water and a handful of coffee grounds in a small, tin pot. Put that on the fire and start it cooking. Now you start your bacon and eggs, but put the eggshells to the side. Once the bacon and eggs are finished the coffee pot should be boiling good. Take it off the fire, throw the eggshells in to settle the grounds and take a touch of the bitter off, then pour into your tin cup.

I drank my coffee this way at home for years. The tin cup was reserved for camping trips but the coffee was made the same whether it was on the kitchen range or over a campfire. I think its also know as hobo brew. Puts coffee from a french press to shame.

 

[StoneNYC]

Close, but not quite. You put water and a handful of coffee grounds in a small, tin pot. Put that on the fire and start it cooking. Now you start your bacon and eggs, but put the eggshells to the side. Once the bacon and eggs are finished the coffee pot should be boiling good. Take it off the fire, throw the eggshells in to settle the grounds and take a touch of the bitter off, then pour into your tin cup.

I drank my coffee this way at home for years. The tin cup was reserved for camping trips but the coffee was made the same whether it was on the kitchen range or over a campfire. I think its also know as hobo brew. Puts coffee from a french press to shame.

Hmmm I always drink french press so I'll have to try this with the eggshells ... the actual method I use for camping is I have a diffuser (tea/coffee) that goes in my nalgene bottle and you can "stand brew" or "cowboy method" per the instructions... stand brew is you put the diffuser in the top, pour in the hot water, then put the coffee in the screen/diffuser then cap the bottle and stand it upside down for x minutes... the cowboy method is the same but instead of putting the grinds in the screen you put the water and grinds in the bottle then use the screen to stop the grinds from pouring into your mouth, I kind of like this method "the cowboy method" but it's totally store bought and made up by marketing, but it works. GSI is the company that makes the diffuser and Nalgene is of course the bottle company.

I like yours though, rugged.

 

[removed account4]

hey pioneer
my grandmother used to tell me that is how she made her coffee for the church ladies
with eggshells to clear the grounds but she used an urn, not a tin cup
if you ever have any cardamom drop it in your cup instead of eggshells, it works great for taking the bitter off too,
and it won't raise your cholesterol


stone, starby's only TASTES strong because the beans have released oils, it really
has very little caffeine because roasting kills it.
your stand brew sounds pretty tasty though

 

[jovo]

I drink coffee while developing film in either D76 1:1, or ID11 1:1. I sip scotch while developing prints in Ilford Paper Developer. Thankfully, no one has found that single malt will develop anything other than a nice, gentle buzz. ;-))

 

[StoneNYC]

I drink coffee while developing film in either D76 1:1, or ID11 1:1. I sip scotch while developing prints in Ilford Paper Developer. Thankfully, no one has found that single malt will develop anything other than a nice, gentle buzz. ;-))

Haha oh man! I suppose you could use it as a wetting agent though, but it would be such a terrible waste! Lol

hey pioneer
my grandmother used to tell me that is how she made her coffee for the church ladies
with eggshells to clear the grounds but she used an urn, not a tin cup
if you ever have any cardamom drop it in your cup instead of eggshells, it works great for taking the bitter off too,
and it won't raise your cholesterol


stone, starby's only TASTES strong because the beans have released oils, it really
has very little caffeine because roasting kills it.
your stand brew sounds pretty tasty though

It's pretty good, and cheap! It's $12, anyone who's interested it also makes tea

It's called an H2JO haha

http://www.gsioutdoors.com/products/pdp/h2jo


~Stone

Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1, 5DmkII / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Roger Cole]

I drink coffee while developing film in either D76 1:1, or ID11 1:1. I sip scotch while developing prints in Ilford Paper Developer. Thankfully, no one has found that single malt will develop anything other than a nice, gentle buzz. ;-))

It will develop a far-from-gentle hangover if overindulged in!

 

[mrred]

1: reversal (dektol mostly)
2: xtol
3: c-41 (powder kits)

I use reversal for anything I want to keep, or for more seriousious work. XTol for everything else, but I am actively looking for a replacement. I just can't come close to using it up before it dies on me. I probably will go Thornton 2 bath or some pyro I can make from scratch, when I need it.

 

[StoneNYC]

1: reversal (dektol mostly)
2: xtol
3: c-41 (powder kits)

I use reversal for anything I want to keep, or for more seriousious work. XTol for everything else, but I am actively looking for a replacement. I just can't come close to using it up before it dies on me. I probably will go Thornton 2 bath or some pyro I can make from scratch, when I need it.

I wonder if the OP meant B&W developers... Maybe not but it throws off the numbers for those that do all 3 (E-6/C-41/B&W) so even if they only use 2 B&W that's puts them over to the max... Hmm


~Stone

Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1, 5DmkII / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[grobbit]

Microdol-X 1:3 for everything, gives me great tonality and excellent grain.

 

[Scandium]

Three developers

1. DD-X for speed; Eastman Double-X EI 400
2. Microdol 1+1; Double-X EI 250
3. HC-110 dil. H; Everything else.

 

[Keith Tapscott.]

Only D-76 these days, but Xtol is sometimes tempting.

 

[selmslie]

Xtol for 36mm & 120; HC110, Rodinal and TMax for 4x5

 

[Juan Valdenebro]

No matter how many developers I use commonly, now I think this way: there are three general options...

When I want to develop a street roll, and that needs good speed for no tripod and f/8, but without pushing, to retain detail and keep grain controlled, I use a standard MQ developer...

Sometimes, as in low light, I need to expose at EI1600 or EI3200, so those times, speed is the first priority, and contrast and grain become too affected if I use the standard MQ developer, so I use a phenidone developer designed for pushing: it makes a push less problematic -tonally- than it is if I use the standard MQ developer...

Other times, there's time for focusing, or for using tripod, or there's no need to stop down, so to get the best image structure from a film, I use a metol only developer, exposing for more light than box speed...

Those three cases and developers are represented by Ilford's three powder developers: ID-11, Microphen and Perceptol.

 

[jvo]

the 3 i use are hc-110, hc-110, and hc-110. (when i run out of the "old" formula it may change.)

 

[Louis Nargi]

only one HC-110

 

[Paul Howell]

I now use 3, Rodinal, Rodinal Special, Clayton F76+ on hand but not mixed my last liter MCM 100 kit, and some D76.

 

[Nicholas Lindan]

Film: D-76, Microdol-X, Technidol
Paper: D-72

Other developers I have used in the past: M-Q, Accufine, Diafine, FG-7, Rodinal, H&W Control, Ansco somethingorother ...

 

[Sirius Glass]

I like to get under the OP's skin by posting and boasting about the advantages of XTOL and replenished XTOL and posting this:

 

[Bronson Dugnutt]

Parodinal, Xtol, and 2 pyro variants for various films. HC-110 1+63 is sublime for direct printing of Tri-X negs. Various homebrews where appropriate eg reversal, color, custom devs. Giving TMax dev a try on P3200 this month.

Ilford MG or amidol for paper.

 

[Bronson Dugnutt]

Kodak ain't joshin' about that TMax grain, especially with P3200. In fact this combo may be a bit TOO fast out of doors as 1/500s f22 w/ a red filter produces overexposure in full sun. I get the inkling a lot of speed in P3200 comes from boosted red sensitivity.




Edit: these are DSLR scans and I doubt the grain is as pronounced if optically enlarged.

 

[KenS]

how many developers do you use, or have you settled on one?

if you use a handful, are they for specific films or reasons ?

The only film developer now 'allowed' in my darkroom is Pyrocat HD... In the 'end' it is less expensive when mixed up from the required 'scratch' chemicals and 'distilled' water and 'stored' in smaller glass containers filled to the brim to 'reduce' the chances of any oxidation before putting it to use.

Ken