How long do you use your developer?

[Photo Fitz]

Hello,

I use a batch of developer, Clayton F76+, for up to 8 rolls of film.

A friend said he makes a new batch of developer for each tank, 2-3 rolls, of film.

What is recommended?

- Alan

 

[Akki14]

I use one-shot film developer,fotospeed's FD10 usually, so it always goes down the drain after developing time is up. That'd be a bit over 500ml for 2 rolls of 35mm or 1roll of 120 film (although I'm now considering the two rolls of 120 film in one spool trick).

 

[Nick Zentena]

Once but I mix up D-23 1:3 so it can't be reused.

 

[MikeSeb]

Add me to the one-shot crowd. Anything else is false economy, unless you are developing film on an industrial scale.

Why risk images you (presumably) were at some pains to make merely to save a few cents?

 

[KenM]

It really depends on the developer.

When I used to use Pyrocat-HD, I would only run a single batch of film (6 sheets) through a 1/2 gallon tank. The developer oxidizes fairly quickly, so it needs to be replaced after a relatively short period of time. It's pennies per batch, so it's no big deal.

However, with HC110, I'll run through 3 batches of film (18 sheets) in a 1/2 gallon tank at a slightly higher dilution than Dilution E (which is 1:11). Kodak states that the capacity of Dil E in a gallon tank is 10 sheets of 8x10, or 40 sheets of 4x5. A 1700ml dilution is a bit less than 1/2 a gallon, so 18 sheets is right at the border line. However, I've never had a problem, and I've been using this technique for the past 4 years.

 

[Tom Hoskinson]

I use Pyrocat-HD and Pyrocat-MC and I use them as one-shot. I want consistent, reproduceable results so I do not reuse my film developer.

I do replenish and reuse my (Amidol) Paper developer.

 

[Bill Mobbs]

I use a number of different film developers... Always one shot for film... Both developer and fixer. For paper I reuse developer and fixer. I can always make a new print. This is not so with the negative!

 

[DrPablo]

I've ben using XTOL at 1:1 for as much as 20 to 30 4x5 sheets, or the equivalent in 120 rolls.

Now that I'm shooting 8x10, I only process around 5 to 10 sheets before making it fresh, which basically means fresh development every time.

I've found that my contrast is easier to control (predictably) with fresh developer.

 

[mjs]

Saving partially used developer is a false economy, as others have noted. In some cases (Tmax films in D76, for example,) it only works consistantly and repeatedly with fresh developer so saving it is high on the list of Bad Ideas.

Mike

 

[Roger Hicks]

Dear Alan,

There are two routes to the maximum possible consistency.

One is to work one-shot.

The other is to use a fully 'seasoned' developer, i.e. one that is almost never pitched out, but is constantly replenished. This was how the commercial darkrooms of yore used to work, with the dev kept in 4-gallon tanks with a floating lid. When I started as an assistant in the 70s this was still normal.

The big disadvantage of a 'seasoned' developer is reduced film speed, typically 1 stop, because of bromide build-up. A lesser disadvantage is that if you're not careful they can accumulate crud. Apart from that, they're wonderfully reliable and consistent and very economical.

The compromise -- re-using dev for X rolls/square feet per gallon -- is nothing like as bad an idea as some people say: it works pretty well if you follow the guidelines for extending dev times to compensate for exhaustion and bromide build-up. As, presumably, you have found for yourself. There is little doubt, though, that one-shot is better.

Cheers,

R.

 

[nicolai]

I use Diafine, a two-bath, compensating developer that doesn't oxidise. I'm into year 3 with a $17.00 one-gallon kit.

 

[Roger Hicks]

I use Diafine, a two-bath, compensating developer that doesn't oxidise. I'm into year 3 with a $17.00 one-gallon kit.

Dear Nicolai,

Sorry, I'd forgotten two-baths. You are quite right. They last half-way to forever and are very consistent too. I used them a lot, 25+ years ago, but gave up because I wasn't that keen on the tonality.

Cheers,

R.

 

[Photo Fitz]

Thank you for the answers

I get it. Make new developer for eacgh small batch or risk bad results.

- Alan

 

[gainer]

I use mine long enough to do a roll of film. There are some advantages. If it only has to last a half hour or so, you can use formulas that would not last any longer and which might have qualities that cannot be had with those that must be kept and reused. Pyrocat HD, PC, or MC stocks mixed in a glycol have long storage life and are very flexible in use. A simple stock like PC-TEA allows experimenting with varying amounts of sulfite from 0 on up. You get the point.

 

[bjorke]

It varies a little, but typically I use my developer for around 11 minutes at 20 degrees C

 

[herb]

How long do you use your developer

Buy bulk chemicals, make your own concentrates, use the working

solution in one session and throw it out. You can make pryocat hd (etc)

quite economically.

 

[Markok765]

Rodinal 1:50, One-shot, for up to 2 rolls in one tank.

-Marko

 

[dancqu]

Sorry, I'd forgotten two-baths. Cheers, R.

IMO, you did not forget. That Diafine is a Very 'seasoned'
two bath developer which could be kept in tanks.

Another basis for classifying developers for consistency,
besides method of use, is the chemical make-up of the
developer. Could go without saying save for some who
are new to photo chemistry and it's use but wonder
what is this 'consistency' thing. Dan

 

[fhovie]

Always one shot: Pyrocat-P, Xtol 1:3, D-76 1:1

These I do use for a dozen rolls or so: Microphen and Split D-23. They are both special use developers for me so they often get shelf worn before I get all I could out of them. Since I mix my own from powder chemicals, it is not very expensive to toss them when there is any doubt. D-23 Bath A never seems to go bad, Bath B gets worn though.

If I developed film every day, I might be drawn to developers with replenishment - Since it is more like once a week or so, I feel more confident with the predictability of freshly mixed. I have no need to gamble with my negatives to save a few pennies on used developer. Pyrocat is really cheap to make, as are most developers when made from raw materials.