If you had followed my advice, posted many times here, about what to do with drying film without squeegees or finger wipes you would have saved aggravation. Would you like me to post it again or will you search Photrio?
No, as my high school physics teacher stated: Trial and success. Never end on an errorReads like awty has mastered it through trial and error!
One of the most important but often overlooked keys to successfully using a drying aid (e.g., Photoflo-200) is to thoroughly premix the working solution at least an hour before using it. The surfactant(s) in these drying aids really require some time to fully dissolve in water. If, instead, you add the concentrate directly to a water-filled developing tank after washing, you’re likely to: 1) add too much concentrate; and 2) not get adequate dissolution of the concentrate. Both things are likely to leave spots, especially on roll film (the longer distance the water has to slide down during drying increases the chances that it’ll dry out before the surfactants have had a chance to fully slip off the film; this doesn’t seem to be as much of a problem with sheet film due to its shorter length).
My practice is to mix up a couple liters at a time, which usually lasts me a few weeks depending on my film throughout. Doing so guarantees you’ll always have thoroughly mixed drying aid on hand.
One of the most important but often overlooked keys to successfully using a drying aid (e.g., Photoflo-200) is to thoroughly premix the working solution at least an hour before using it. The surfactant(s) in these drying aids really require some time to fully dissolve in water. If, instead, you add the concentrate directly to a water-filled developing tank after washing, you’re likely to: 1) add too much concentrate; and 2) not get adequate dissolution of the concentrate. Both things are likely to leave spots, especially on roll film (the longer distance the water has to slide down during drying increases the chances that it’ll dry out before the surfactants have had a chance to fully slip off the film; this doesn’t seem to be as much of a problem with sheet film due to its shorter length).
My practice is to mix up a couple liters at a time, which usually lasts me a few weeks depending on my film throughout. Doing so guarantees you’ll always have thoroughly mixed drying aid on hand.
One of the most important but often overlooked keys to successfully using a drying aid (e.g., Photoflo-200) is to thoroughly premix the working solution at least an hour before using it. The surfactant(s) in these drying aids really require some time to fully dissolve in water. If, instead, you add the concentrate directly to a water-filled developing tank after washing, you’re likely to: 1) add too much concentrate; and 2) not get adequate dissolution of the concentrate. Both things are likely to leave spots, especially on roll film (the longer distance the water has to slide down during drying increases the chances that it’ll dry out before the surfactants have had a chance to fully slip off the film; this doesn’t seem to be as much of a problem with sheet film due to its shorter length).
My practice is to mix up a couple liters at a time, which usually lasts me a few weeks depending on my film throughout. Doing so guarantees you’ll always have thoroughly mixed drying aid on hand.
To store a solution of Photoflo you need an antimicrobial agent like what is used in color film final rinse. Definitely need to add correct amount, and stir gently.
The surfactant(s) in these drying aids really require some time to fully dissolve in water.
I've always used Photoflo and, for years now, at the full strength and distilled water.
I use to use my fingers for a light downward wipe, but my chronic psoriasis, a gift of the Eniwetok Clean-up at 29yo, have made my skin often too rough to do this.
Other than a few scratches because of dry skin, watermarks are no something I've had issues with and I also like Edwals negative cleaner in the darkroom.
Mineral deposits can occur in the flowing tap water, but using the Ilford Method with distilled water.
I occasionally play with the idea of making a solar distillery, but have yet to do so.
Also, since I've started working with copper, I like the idea of making a small cooper still for use with a small/medium charcoal making drum, using the wood gas escaping at the barrel top relief hole, just to see how practical killing these two particular birds with the one stone/process.
Also, since I've started working with copper, I like the idea of making a small cooper still for use with a small/medium charcoal making drum, using the wood gas escaping at the barrel top relief hole, just to see how practical killing these two particular birds with the one stone/process.
I really have a very, very hard time believing this, to put it mildly. The concentrate is already a solution in water. It's already dissolved; diluting it to working strength takes just a few seconds and a quick stir to get an even distribution across the new volume.
Strange it is, prior to our new water plant our water was really hard, almost as hard as the water I got in Southern Italy next to the sea, just about sea water. Past 40 years I've used distilled water with 1/2 recommended amount of photo flow per gallon. I just hang to air dry. In our dry desert air a few hours.
I really have a very, very hard time believing this, to put it mildly. The concentrate is already a solution in water. It's already dissolved; diluting it to working strength takes just a few seconds and a quick stir to get an even distribution across the new volume.
I really have a very, very hard time believing this, to put it mildly. The concentrate is already a solution in water. It's already dissolved; diluting it to working strength takes just a few seconds and a quick stir to get an even distribution across the new volume.
The growth of mold/bacteria in rinse aids is due to the accidental introduction of biological agents during mixing or use. Typically, this happens as a consequence of using tap water to prepare the working solution or from reusing the same working solution multiple times (i.e., carryover of bacteria from the post-fix rinse water). The rinse aid concentrates, themselves, should be sterile from the manufacturer (some of the more common surfactants, like Triton X-100, are probably mildly anti-microbial).
If you prepare your working solution with distilled water in a clean container and use the rinse aid one-shot, you shouldn’t end up with mold or slime. At least, I’ve not had any problems doing this with working-strength Photoflo-200, including keeping it in a partially full plastic darkroom jug for up to a couple months at a time.
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?