How do you tell a real from a fake LEICA?

Here is an analysis of a couple of Russian fakes from 1999: http://www.cameraquest.com/rusky2.htm

 

I have a Leica IIIf and a Russian clone of a IIIa. I don't know about Leica II, but some areas to watch with Leica III were the collar around the shutter release button and the viewfinder/rangefider windows on back. 1. The Leica shutter release doesn't stick up as far above the collar, and the collar on the Leica is wider. My IIIF has a little off-center dot on the shutter release, also, that turns when you advance film. 2. The viewfinder and rangefinder windows on the Leica are side-by-side and fomr a black elipse on the back of the camera, like two black capital D's placed back to back. The Russian copy has two round, chrome windows, and they're farther apart. Also, my Leica IIIf has both auf-open and zu-close on the bottom cover release. The Russian copy has only auf-zu. I realize the you were asking about Leica II, not III, but perhaps this info will help anyway. On a final note: if you get the chance to handle a real Leica vs. a fake, the quality is immediately apparent. I daresay i could tell the difference with my eyes closed. The Leica shutter action is smooth and easy. The Russian is like metal grating on metal, and much rougher. Some Russian fakes may be better than others, both in workmanship and accuracy. In mine, it's pretty obvious. I think price is a pretty good indicator, too. If a Leica looks too good to be true, price-wise, it probably is.

Good luck,
George

Cheers, George

 

My IIIf has DRP directly under the Leica on the top cover. Another interesting note: My IIIf prefaces the serial number with Nr., the fakes seem to say No with a line under the o. I don't know if this is universal or not. Also remember that Leica II and III were concurrent models. The number denotes how many frame-lines the camera had, not a succesive series or model number, so they should have many of the same design details.

 

Easiest way: Circular roller RF cam on Leica vs wedge shaped on Russian ones.
George, the Leica II and III have no framelines, only a VF for 50mm. the III adds slow speeds to the camera.

 

You're right, Marko! Thanks for the correction. I was thinking of the M2/M3.

 

If LEICA is written in Cyrillic, chances are it a fake.

-30-

 

Bingo, saw a chap on Antiques Roadshow use the exact same method to determine if it was a fake or not.
Trivia: I watch too much Antiques Roadshow.

 

I first glance at the...

front of the viewfinder window area. If the top flat plate is level across the front of the window, it's a fake. If the top plate drops off in line with the rest of the edge, and the camera appears to have a frame around the top edge of the window, it's genuine. Easier to see than explain!

Jo

 

Looks good to me, too!

Usually they're referred to as a "II" or a "D", as opposed to the IIIf or IIIg. There was only one edition of the II so it has no model letter designators, IIRC.

Jo

 

Hey, I have that one on my eBay watch list too - I don't need it and I can't afford it, but it looks like a nice deal and a good kit to me. I say nab it if the price doesn't get ridiculous.

 

Can I please point to an article on my website, a guide with pictures on how to distinguish between the real Leicas and the fakes?



Fotograaf in Assen - Leica: true or fake? A comprehensive ...

 

If you want II for taking of pictures, buy IIf RD. The made of IIf is impossible to fake from FSU. The difference is huge.Telling you as ex owner and user of both.