How do you meter?

[destroya]

which do you use, prefer and why? do you very which you use? is it based on the camera, the scene or something else?
The more details you can provide for why, the better.

 

[alanrockwood]

I usually meter in reflective mode, because I usually use a through the lens meter on my 35mm cameras. If I am at the top of my game (which doesn't happen as often as it should) I will tilt the camera down a bit to reduce the amount of sky in the metering window, so the shot doesn't end up being underexposed.

 

[R.Gould]

Depends what I am shooting, none of my cameras have built in metering so I always use one of 3 westons I own, for landscapes/seascapes then reflective, for portraits/still life incident

 

[sterioma]

I use reflected meter for my Nikon FM2 (TTL), incident for my meterless Leica IIIf and sometimes for the Hasselblad (portraits). Normally spot metering with my Hasselblad (landscape and still life).
I simply change film type for my Holga (~100 at summer, ~400 in winter).

 

[Greg Heath]

I just guess. B&W film is so forgiving unless it's getting dark. Figure out what and how you want to shoot something. F16 to start and speed of film for shutter speed. Reduce it from there. Cloudy days... 5.6 -f8, sunny F11-22+
Fading light 5.6 and below. Works out everytime, almost. use a tripod and bracket. works in a pinch or use the Lightmeter app in your iPhone, then shoot away. I play that game a lot. During the day, I just ask my self what F/ speed would I use for different scenarios. It's fun, then when I have my camera with me, it's a no brainer.

 

[Anon Ymous]

I mostly use reflective, that's what my cameras have. I'll use spot metering if it's available in the camera in use and overall I try to avoid any metering mistakes from overall bright or dark scenes, strong highlights etc. For the most part, I do a decent job, with the occasional brainfart. I've also used sunny f/16 with decent results, especially when the camera doesn't have a (working) meter.

 

[guangong]

All depends upon camera and circumstances. Usually have little Gossen Digisix in pocket for use with non metered cameras. Hasselblad meter knob and Rollei TLR meters usually good enough for most situations. When using long lenses, say 180 to 400mm, in woods, a Pentax spot meter. For some venues, theater stages and dimly lit bars, I get good results using a printed exposure calculator or table rather than meter.
Use camera’s meter with Leica M5 and Leicaflex SL, especially when shooting color slides. Also on board meter with metered Minox. Because subminiature negative must be spot on, I use Digisix for non metered Minox and Minolta 16.
Of course, if traveling by car, I take Gossen F and whatever else from my meter cache.
For 16 mm movies, I use Sekonic incident meter in order to maintain some semblance of consistency of exposure. Also use Sekonic for LF.
Over 60 yrs I have accumulated a mess of meters. For most purposes that little exposure table packaged with a roll of film fits most needs.

 

[Vaughn]

I make platinum prints and carbon prints (19th Century processes) directly from camera negatives -- up to 11x14. Both processes require negatives with a high DMax (large density range). I do not use contrast boosters with my platinum prints, and I print my carbons prints for a high relief which requires high contrast negatives. Carbon needs more contrast than platinum and I aim for around 2.8 to 3.0 for those.

I need to expose for good detail in the shadows (which a spot meter excels at), and then measure the highlights to see how much development I need to give the sheet of film to get the DMax required -- usually around twice the 'normal' development, depending on the SBR (scene brightness range). Choice of film and developer helps, also.

I also photograph in the redwoods where light values/SBR can vary greatly from scene to scene under the same light conditions. When I photograph out in the open, like in Death Valley or Zion, I am always surprised how consistant the light can be -- and the same amount exposure given thoughout the day.

 

[jim10219]

It depends on the camera and situation. With SLR's with built in metering, I just use that. With my Zorki RF, I have a cold shoe mounted reflective meter that I use. With my large formats, I use my spot meter. With my medium formats and some of my other cameras without built in meters, I use Sunny 16 or my phone app. When shooting with a flash, I use my Minolta Flash Meter V. I also sometimes use that incident meter for those meterless cameras even if I'm not using a flash. That's just my most common meter to camera combinations. I'll use whatever I have available or feel like using depending on the situation.

The important thing is to learn the strengths and weaknesses of each meter. Every metering method has situations where it will fail you, so you have to be aware of them and know how to compensate for those weaknesses when encountering them, or choose a better meter. No meter does it all perfectly.

As with most things in life, it's not the tool, but how well you use it that determines the results.

 

[removed account4]

Hi destroya
If I am doing "client work" I always use a meter. I do a incident reading. If I am standing in similar light as my subject, I hold the meter over my head . If I am not in the same light as the subject, I sometimes walk to the subject face the camera and meter there. I use the hemispherical dome. If it is Dwork I am doing, I use whatever the metering system is in the camera. If I am doing something for myself/personal work or whatever. I Sunny 11 it for film and paper / hand coated paper/glass/metal negatives and my onboard experiential computer. Depending on the subject and the materials being used, the type of light, time of day &c I modify my exposure. It isnt' really as hard as you might think it is, its just paying attention to the light and knowing the materials you are using.
John
Ps. If I am unsure, I will burn a few sheets or frames &c and bracket a little bit.

 

[RalphLambrecht]

which do you use, prefer and why? do you very which you use? is it based on the camera, the scene or something else?
The more details you can provide for why, the better.

I prefer reflective matrix metering and use incident if that is not available.

 

[Chan Tran]

Can't cast a vote as I use all of the methods listed. Built in meters are always reflective so I use that the most. I use incident quite often when I use hand held meter. With a hand held meter I only use spot or incident and never wide field reflective. I also not using the meter very often as when I use a meterless camera I generally do not want to carry a meter around. I also guess my exposure when I use the digital camera very often rather than using the meter.

 

[Alan Edward Klein]

With MF landscapes, I use both reflective and incident depending on conditions. But I also bracket +1 and -1.

 

[StepheKoontz]

Depends on conditions and film type. With B&W and color print, I shoot one stop over and if it's "daytime", I usually sunny 16 it. I almost always have a incident meter with me so might take one reading just to reassure myself. With slide film I meter every shot, thinking about where I want to place the highlights and usually bracket one shot +.5 to +1 stop over. Very few of the cameras I use for film have a metering system...

 

[MartinCrabtree]

Mostly reflective with the camera. I have a Weston Master II w/invercone (incident) I use for difficult stuff. Wish I could lock the needle. it would make some things easier.

 

[Doc W]

I always meter colour with an incident meter, regardless of format.
I meter b&w MF with an incident meter unless I am developing according to a quasi zone system in which I use use a spot meter.
I always use a spot meter with b&w large format.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Generally I use the reflective meter on the camera, zone or metrix. For high Subject Brightness Range [SBR] I use a Pentax Digital Spot Meter with the Zone System or incident meter. White on white or black on black I use an incident meter.

 

[Ariston]

If my camera has a meter, I use that. If not, I usually use a digital camera (or Sunny 16), but have recently purchased a spot meter that I will start using once I am well-practiced.

 

[markbau]

For B&W I use a spot meter, I use a bastardised version of the zone system. I just check that important shadows fall no lower than zone III and check my highlights to see that they are not off the scale. I agree with previous posts that B&W film is not nearly as finicky about exposure as we like to think it is. Any normal film/developer will capture at least 16 zones, the trick is getting all the information on the neg onto a print!

 

[Trail Images]

90% of the time reflective. Using high & low readings then auto-averaged with a 758 unit. Most always landscape scenes during sunrise and sunset cycles.

 

[darkosaric]

Sunny 11 most of the time, if camera has a meter, I put it 1/3 stop overexposure. My motto is "when in doubt - overexposure, and overdevelop". I hate thin negatives.

 

[bdial]

I prefer incident metering if I'm using a hand-held meter. For cameras with built-in meters I point the camera to whatever area is the best representation of medium grey and lock that setting, reframe and make the exposure. Two of my cameras have matrix metering, but I haven't used it very much.

One time during a workshop, I wanted to get comfortable with zone-system measuring, borrowed the instructor's spot meter and probably spent 20 minutes figuring out an exposure based on highlights, shadows and everything in between. Finally came up with an exposure, then for comparison, I made an incident reading with my Luna-Pro, which showed me the same setting.

 

[KenS]

which do you use, prefer and why? do you very which you use? is it based on the camera, the scene or something else?
The more details you can provide for why, the better.

My 'norm' is to use a spot meter and take a 'reading off' a piece of clean white towelling that is 'receiving' the same 'light' as the scene 'composed on the ground glass.. usually exposed at box speed. I place that reading on Zone VIII +1/3 and give the film 'normal' development using Pyrocat HD in BTZS tubes. IOW...I meter for the 'high' values and let the shadows "fall where they lay"... the method recommended when I used to go through a lot of Kodachrome.. and it works just 'fine" for me since ever I was 'introduced to B/W large format by my mentor
60+ years ago

Ken

 

[Doremus Scudder]

Spot meter. Place shadows, develop for the highlights. Never needed anything else for my work.

Doremus

 

[Ko.Fe.]

I measure by all three and not by the other. See no reason to limit myself just to one thing.
Wait. Some of my film P&S has one speed and aperture. It works. I guess it is the other - "nothing to measure, just shoot".

So, I successfully re-voted for all four.

OK. OP is asking for details.
Other is already described.
S16 is for trips, street photos with M4-2. I'm not the 007 to remember things from first read, but after ten of thousands exposures and many trips and days on the street with cameras I have some common knowledge.
I'm using TTL cameras as well and see absolutely no problems with it.
And I like to measure the actual light sometimes as well. Again to keep my memory fresh.