After rinsing them thoroughly, I boil mine, especially if I think that some wetting agent (PhotoFlo) may have gotten into them. After boiling them, I take them out of the boiling water while still hot. They then dry almost immediately. I only do this if I think some PhotoFlo may have, inadvertently, been added while film was still on the reel, in or out of the tank. I have a "graduate" strictly for PhotoFlo and nothing else. Immerse film in there after removing it from the reel. I try not to invite "problems" in the darkroom and according to Jobo, that IS one and not just on "plastic" reels and tanks..........Regards!I have some used ones w/crud on them that won't rinse off. I used to soak them in a bucket of solution, but I don't remember what the solution was. Thanks
After rinsing them thoroughly, I boil mine, especially if I think that some wetting agent (PhotoFlo) may have gotten into them. After boiling them, I take them out of the boiling water while still hot. They then dry almost immediately. I only do this if I think some PhotoFlo may have, inadvertently, been added while film was still on the reel, in or out of the tank. I have a "graduate" strictly for PhotoFlo and nothing else. Immerse film in there after removing it from the reel. I try not to invite "problems" in the darkroom and according to Jobo, that IS one and not just on "plastic" reels and tanks..........Regards!
Scotch Brite is fine. Using steel wool on stainless will cause the stainless steel to rust.A light scrub with very fine Scotch-Brite should take care of it. Fine steel wool would work too, but Scotch-Brite is easier to work with. I would use 000 or 00 grade which is much finer than the coarse green stuff sold for dishes, either should be available at a good hardware store, maybe the home centers.
This sounds like a very good idea. Back in the good old days Kodak sold a mixture of potassium dichromate and sulfuric acid. The chrome made for a very toxic waste and hazard to handle. I've heard of mixing ammonium persulfate with conc. Sulfuric acid as a substitute for the chrome acid.I had some very ugly color developer and blix stains/residue in an old processor, the only thing I found would work to clean them was toilet bowl cleaner.
From what I have read and been told, any concentration of "PhotoFlo or equiv" is too much. It is not to keep it from "building-up" it is to keep it from affecting the developer when you develop film and some could carry-over into your stop and fixer. It is easier to just not let it get into the tank and use it on the film AFTER it has left the tank and reel. Also, I am not too sure that boiling will get rid of PhotoFlo but I do know that hot water will dissolve other chemical residues so I boil mine. However, that is in MY darkroom. What you do in your darkroom is your business.........Regards!Wow, if you have to boil SS reels to remove Photoflo residue, then you are using way too much Photoflo concentrate to mix your working solution. Followong a recommendation from 40 years ago, I mix Photoflo working solution at one-half the concentration recommended by Kodak. I have no spotting on my film and no residue build-up on either SS or plastic reels. I flush my reels in warm water immediately after processing - no problems of the sort suggested here.
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