How do I get this tone in a print?

[mikewhi]

Hi:

Please take a look at this image in my gallery:

(there was a url link here which no longer exists)

My question is, does anyone know how to get this tone in a print - combo of paper\developer\toner? THis is a picture of a negative taken with the negative on a light box. It was developed in Pyrocat-HD, thus the color. I have a few prints I would like to get to look like this in the final print.

I have always been a traditional cold-tone printer and would like to walk on the wild side this once.

Thanks.

-Mike

 

[rogueish]

Perhaps toning in sepia then bleaching again lightly and re-toning in a green or the other way around? The image seems to have (on my monitor anyway) both greens and browns. I have also heard that certain papers can get unusual results with certain developers and/or toners. Tim Rudman's book on toning has a very good guide in the back. Sorry I don't have it with me (at work) but I'm sure someone here can tell you.

nice image by the way.

 

[clay]

Gumover platinum will allow you to make a print just about any tone you want. It is not a process that will probably allow you to produce a perfect print the first try, however. A little learning curve is involved. Kerik Kouklis teaches a great introductory gumover workshop if you are interested.

Hi:

Please take a look at this image in my gallery:

(there was a url link here which no longer exists)

My question is, does anyone know how to get this tone in a print - combo of paper\developer\toner? THis is a picture of a negative taken with the negative on a light box. It was developed in Pyrocat-HD, thus the color. I have a few prints I would like to get to look like this in the final print.

I have always been a traditional cold-tone printer and would like to walk on the wild side this once.

Thanks.

-Mike

 

[NikoSperi]

I just tried some Bergger Prestige in Agfa Neutol NE. It came out surprisingly warm toned, and I toned in selenium thinking it would go more towards the blue/black. It didn't, and actually went greenish. Will try to scan a print to show, but as far as I can tell on screen, looks similar.

 

[Alex Hawley]

One of the easiest ways is to add potassium bromide (KBr) to your developer. Make a 10% solution; 50 grams KBr to 500 ml water. Try adding about 5 ml KBr per liter developer, see how that looks, then add more if necessary. As far as I know, KBr works with just about any developer that's out there.

 

[psvensson]

Print on color paper?

 

[Claire Senft]

Carbon process

The carbon process using pigments is capable of making any color whatsover. It is, with the right pigment choides, as archival any process . It is also a fussy process that requires delicate handling and temperature and humudity control.

 

[L Gebhardt]

Would a Catechol based paper developer work? There are several listed in The Darkroom Cookbook.

 

[mikewhi]

I saw an article in Black And White magazine from England. Tim Rudman wrote an article on lith printing and it looks promising. All you need is a 2-part 'lith' developer and a paper that reacts well to lith developers (he lists 64 papers). The first part will produce the deep blacks very fast, even highly diluted. The second developer will produce the mid and high tones and provide the print color. The examples he gave seem to indicate that I will be able to get tones like the ones I want. I ordered some lith developer from Freestyle today.

-Mike

 

[Ian Grant]

The toner I posted on the Chemistry section of this site IT-8 will give you similar colours with a bit of experimentation. See: (there was a url link here which no longer exists)

As it uses Pyrocatechol as the re-developer you will be getting some staining effects in the print. It also uses a dichromate bleach similar to used in intensification which adds some colour in itself.

If this toner were to be used then the image rebleached in a ferricyanide re-halogenating bleach followed by toning in a Thiourea or Sulphide toner then I reckon the right combination would be very close to the colour Mike's after.