How do I cut roll paper. Is there a place that will cut paper?

[mshchem]

I'm desperate for Kodak professional color paper . There's nothing wrong with Crystal Archive Fuji . The thin stock of the Fuji paper makes it so hard to handle . I have a set of Nord rollers that will hold the roll. Do I just slice off over size sheets and then trim it?
Is there any place out there that will cut sheets for a fee ?

If I can get a stack of 30 or 40 sheets I have a (name escapes me ) guillotine cutter with a clamp that would work up to 11 x 14.
Can we add this to a list of special order products like sheet film?
I should just be happy with what is out there but if it was easy I would be using stink jet.
Best Regards Mike

 

[Sirius Glass]

Use a rotary blade cutter.

 

[mshchem]

Use a rotary blade cutter.

Yes . I have every form of cutter there is . My question is . Is this the way everyone does it ? Is there some method ? I want neat and tidy stacks of paper . It seems to me that what is the first step is to set up a board with a rotary cutter to rough out say 50 sheets 11 inch wide by say 16 inches . Get these all in a stack and trim one end square with the big guillotine cutter then set the cutter to 14 and again trim the stack .
I remember cutting paper (Azo) in a dark print shop with a giant cutter hydraulic, wow, piece of cake .
Is there any place left that will cut paper?
Best Mike

 

[Mick Fagan]

I believe you are talking colour paper here, if so, you will be doing this in complete darkness. I have been using a rotary cutter to cut colour paper rolls over the decades. Within reason you can get virtually perfect cut sheet paper. If you think that is hard, it isn't. Also a lot cheaper than getting someone else to cut the and more than likely fog it.

Wit big mural paper, it was usually pulled straight out of the carton and cut with a blade knife.

Mick.

 

[mnemosyne]

German photo distributor Nordfoto offers Kodak EP (3rd party) cut sheet in boxes up to 12x16", but it is probably not very economical to import that to the US with the shipping and all.

 

[FujiLove]

Use a rotary blade cutter.

I assume you mean this sort of thing?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Cathedral-...TF8&qid=1480439533&sr=8-1&keywords=guillotine

How do you measure consistent lengths from the roll and keep the whole thing aligned so it cuts at right angles? Also, what are people storing their cut sheets in? Old paper boxes or something else?

I've been pondering buying some Kodak paper for a while and it seems impossible to find in cut sheets.

 

[DREW WILEY]

I have a big 48" wide double-bar Rotatrim mounted to a big formica tabletop, with a stainless straightedge permanently attached at exactly 90 degrees on one side, another one positionable for length with precise registration holes matched to those in the tabletop, and an adjustable roller
system down below. So I could hypothetically handle up to 40X60 inch paper cuts this way, but have otherwise standardized with up to 30x40 for routine needs. A 30x40 paper safe sits on an adjacent surface, with a plexiglas slide in between. I cut down big rolls of Fuji CA Supergloss which
needs careful handling, much like Cibachrome did. But those damned heavy rolls are hard on my aging fingers. Guess I'll start experimenting with
night vision goggles next, to help me load the rollers in the dark. Otherwise, I've never had any issues with the newer, thinner CA RC paper base.
It certainly isn't that flimsy. Automated roll film cutter are made. They are expensive and finicky. I could have had a 60" version for free from a
retiring commercial lab. But one more fussy gadget I simply don't have time or patience for, so guess it went to the dump.

 

[ndrs]

I also prefer Kodak paper.
First, I did try to cut it with just a Rotatrim but the sheets were not uniform enough to my liking. So I built a rig around the Rotatrim.

The paper is in a Fuji MG 180Y minilab magazine. This particular model is suitable because
a) it has a nice big knob for moving the paper both in and out,
b) the out-only limiter can be overridden with a syringe cap,
c) it keeps paper always aligned at 90 degrees.

The magazine sits at left with its feet in holes drilled into a thick plywood plate. Next to it is the Rotatrim, fixed parallel to the magazine. After that comes another piece of plywood for height compensation. The slightly raised length marks are taped onto that last plate and can be easily changed.

The magazine can hold any roll width up to 25 cm and they can be bought very cheap these days. I use a separate roll holder for wider rolls.

A very dim indirect colour paper safelight can help but is not really needed. The cutting speed is about 5 sheets per minute with some experience.

 

[FujiLove]

Thanks for all the paper cutting info - that's going to be really useful when I set my darkroom back up. I've been limited to a small bathroom previously and didn't have anywhere near enough room to consider this kind of set-up. Hopefully the new place will have more work surfaces, making this possible.

How does the current Kodak paper stack up against the Fuji, apart from base thickness?

And BTW did you see they are shutting their factory in Harrow that makes paper? Wondering if they make it elsewhere, otherwise it could be the end of Kodak colour paper.

 

[mshchem]

I also prefer Kodak paper.
First, I did try to cut it with just a Rotatrim but the sheets were not uniform enough to my liking. So I built a rig around the Rotatrim.

The paper is in a Fuji MG 180Y minilab magazine. This particular model is suitable because
a) it has a nice big knob for moving the paper both in and out,
b) the out-only limiter can be overridden with a syringe cap,
c) it keeps paper always aligned at 90 degrees.

The magazine sits at left with its feet in holes drilled into a thick plywood plate. Next to it is the Rotatrim, fixed parallel to the magazine. After that comes another piece of plywood for height compensation. The slightly raised length marks are taped onto that last plate and can be easily changed.

The magazine can hold any roll width up to 25 cm and they can be bought very cheap these days. I use a separate roll holder for wider rolls.

A very dim indirect colour paper safelight can help but is not really needed. The cutting speed is about 5 sheets per minute with some experience.

View attachment 168273 View attachment 168274 View attachment 168275 View attachment 168276

This looks like it would serve me well . I'm really just interested in trying some of the New Kodak papers .
Best Mike

 

[mshchem]

I have a big 48" wide double-bar Rotatrim mounted to a big formica tabletop, with a stainless straightedge permanently attached at exactly 90 degrees on one side, another one positionable for length with precise registration holes matched to those in the tabletop, and an adjustable roller
system down below. So I could hypothetically handle up to 40X60 inch paper cuts this way, but have otherwise standardized with up to 30x40 for routine needs. A 30x40 paper safe sits on an adjacent surface, with a plexiglas slide in between. I cut down big rolls of Fuji CA Supergloss which
needs careful handling, much like Cibachrome did. But those damned heavy rolls are hard on my aging fingers. Guess I'll start experimenting with
night vision goggles next, to help me load the rollers in the dark. Otherwise, I've never had any issues with the newer, thinner CA RC paper base.
It certainly isn't that flimsy. Automated roll film cutter are made. They are expensive and finicky. I could have had a 60" version for free from a
retiring commercial lab. But one more fussy gadget I simply don't have time or patience for, so guess it went to the dump.

I'm not sure I will be printing big murals , but this sounds like what I would need to do . I don't see myself using rolls wider than 20 inches. I may just stick with the Fuji CA sheets with Alaris moving paper production to Carestream in Rochester , who knows what that may bring?
I will say this modern paper is so consistent,at least in my experience , used the same filter pack on two lots of paper bought 18 months apart .
Thanks Mike

 

[mshchem]

I also prefer Kodak paper.
First, I did try to cut it with just a Rotatrim but the sheets were not uniform enough to my liking. So I built a rig around the Rotatrim.

The paper is in a Fuji MG 180Y minilab magazine. This particular model is suitable because
a) it has a nice big knob for moving the paper both in and out,
b) the out-only limiter can be overridden with a syringe cap,
c) it keeps paper always aligned at 90 degrees.

The magazine sits at left with its feet in holes drilled into a thick plywood plate. Next to it is the Rotatrim, fixed parallel to the magazine. After that comes another piece of plywood for height compensation. The slightly raised length marks are taped onto that last plate and can be easily changed.

The magazine can hold any roll width up to 25 cm and they can be bought very cheap these days. I use a separate roll holder for wider rolls.

A very dim indirect colour paper safelight can help but is not really needed. The cutting speed is about 5 sheets per minute with some experience.

View attachment 168273 View attachment 168274 View attachment 168275 View attachment 168276

So you advance the paper through the cutter with the knob on the magazine ? Very clever . I have the identical cutter . How wide is your other magazine ? This looks very practical to me .
Best Regards Mike

 

[MattKing]

And BTW did you see they are shutting their factory in Harrow that makes paper? Wondering if they make it elsewhere, otherwise it could be the end of Kodak colour paper.

They are contracting with Carestream in Colorado in the US to take over production. They actually share ownership of that (former Eastman Kodak) facility and have been using it to produce other products.

That Colorado facility is considerably smaller and more modern than Harrow. But the Harrow property itself is likely quite valuable, and probably a big part of the reason that they had to pay Eastman Kodak's bankruptcy trustee $600,000,000.00 as part of the settlement that resolved the UK employee pension claims and gave Kodak Alaris the parts of the business that they received.

 

[mnemosyne]

How does the current Kodak paper stack up against the Fuji, apart from base thickness?

Compared to Fuji Crystal Archive (standard European version) Kodak Endura Premier has more contrast (= more saturated, vivid colors) and a slightly off white, warmer base, which is also a bit thicker. The differences are not huge but quite apparent when comparing two prints next to each other. Fuji Crystal Archive DPII (European version, officially "digital only") resembles Kodak EP in that it has more saturation and contrast than CA standard and a slightly thicker base. The color of the base is the same bright, cold white as CA standard. If you prefer glossy surfaces, Kodak EP has certainly and advantage here over the standard Fuji CA, which needs an infrared dryer to really show gloss. I have never used DPII in glossy surface, so I cannot comment. Generally, I prefer matte surfaces, and both Kodak EP and Fuji DPII are indistinguishable in that respect. The "matte" is slightly more dull than the "lustre" surface of Fuji CA standard, but differences are small, only visible at close inspection.

The bottom line is, Kodak EP will give you the more brilliant colors but, depending on the film and lighting of the original scene, also more trouble getting the contrast range of the negative on the paper. As a consequence of the higher contrast it is also more responsive to changes in filtration, which means it can be also more finicky to get the filtration exactly right with demanding subjects (skin tones, lots of greys in the picture). The same is true for DPII (maybe even more so).

I've been pondering buying some Kodak paper for a while and it seems impossible to find in cut sheets.

As you seem to live in the UK, you could simply order it from Nordfoto?
https://www.nordfoto.de/analoge-fotografie/verbrauchsmaterial/fotopapiere/farbnegativpapier
scroll down for Kodak EP, surface "N" is matte, surface "F" is glossy
you can also order Fuji DPII in cut sheets from them.
Shipping to UK is 11.50 EUR

 

[FujiLove]

Compared to Fuji Crystal Archive (standard European version) Kodak Endura Premier has more contrast (= more saturated, vivid colors) and a slightly off white, warmer base, which is also a bit thicker. The differences are not huge but quite apparent when comparing two prints next to each other. Fuji Crystal Archive DPII (European version, officially "digital only") resembles Kodak EP in that it has more saturation and contrast than CA standard and a slightly thicker base. The color of the base is the same bright, cold white as CA standard. If you prefer glossy surfaces, Kodak EP has certainly and advantage here over the standard Fuji CA, which needs an infrared dryer to really show gloss. I have never used DPII in glossy surface, so I cannot comment. Generally, I prefer matte surfaces, and both Kodak EP and Fuji DPII are indistinguishable in that respect. The "matte" is slightly more dull than the "lustre" surface of Fuji CA standard, but differences are small, only visible at close inspection.

The bottom line is, Kodak EP will give you the more brilliant colors but, depending on the film and lighting of the original scene, also more trouble getting the contrast range of the negative on the paper. As a consequence of the higher contrast it is also more responsive to changes in filtration, which means it can be also more finicky to get the filtration exactly right with demanding subjects (skin tones, lots of greys in the picture). The same is true for DPII (maybe even more so).



As you seem to live in the UK, you could simply order it from Nordfoto?
https://www.nordfoto.de/analoge-fotografie/verbrauchsmaterial/fotopapiere/farbnegativpapier
scroll down for Kodak EP, surface "N" is matte, surface "F" is glossy
you can also order Fuji DPII in cut sheets from them.
Shipping to UK is 11.50 EUR

That's really helpful - thanks. I had no idea you could buy the Kodak paper pre-cut. I'm still tempted to buy it in a roll from a UK supplier, as the last time I ordered colour paper from mainland Europe some of the sheets had blue marks which looked like it could have been x-ray damage. Puts me off having paper shipped internationally.

 

[mnemosyne]

That's really helpful - thanks. I had no idea you could buy the Kodak paper pre-cut. I'm still tempted to buy it in a roll from a UK supplier, as the last time I ordered colour paper from mainland Europe some of the sheets had blue marks which looked like it could have been x-ray damage. Puts me off having paper shipped internationally.

I order Fuji paper from the UK every now and then and never had problems. I always thought that paper is much slower than film so x-rays shouldn't be a problem, but I could be wrong.
Now, the "real" problem with the rolls of paper is that for the widths up to 12" you usually have at least two rolls per box, which is the minimum order size, so you have to invest quite a bit and end up with a large stash of paper (a typical 12" roll of 88m will give you 220 sheets of 12x16). Now, It seems as if AG photographic might be actually selling single 12" rolls of Kodak EP 'N' for around 90 GBP a roll, so this would be cheapest way of obtaining some Kodak EP in the UK?

 

[ndrs]

Pre-cut paper will cost at least twice as much as the same amount in roll.
Adox is probably willing to cut rolls to order but I doubt this will be economical in small quantities.

So you advance the paper through the cutter with the knob on the magazine ? Very clever . I have the identical cutter . How wide is your other magazine ?

If the limiter stopping the inward movement is disabled, the knob allows to align the paper very precisely against the guide. Left hand turns the knob and right hand feels the paper's end at the guide.
Wider rolls do not go into a magazine, they just hang on a piece of plastic pipe (visible on the 2nd photo). This setup is good for up to 42 cm rolls, so standard formats up to 40x50 cm are possible. Another difference with an open roll is that it's aligned to the side, against the 90 degree guide on the cutter. This is not needed with the magazine.
--Andres

 

[FujiLove]

I order Fuji paper from the UK every now and then and never had problems. I always thought that paper is much slower than film so x-rays shouldn't be a problem, but I could be wrong.
Now, the "real" problem with the rolls of paper is that for the widths up to 12" you usually have at least two rolls per box, which is the minimum order size, so you have to invest quite a bit and end up with a large stash of paper (a typical 12" roll of 88m will give you 220 sheets of 12x16). Now, It seems as if AG photographic might be actually selling single 12" rolls of Kodak EP 'N' for around 90 GBP a roll, so this would be cheapest way of obtaining some Kodak EP in the UK?

I'm blaming X-Ray's but the truth is I don't know what caused the marks. I took a photo of a sheet but can't find it on my phone now I need it. It was an odd jagged streak and affected at least two sheets. I switched to the other end of the stack and those sheets were fine. I still have the partly used box, so I'll post a photo here when and if I come across another affected sheet. My darkroom is dismantled pending a house move, so this forum is as close as I get to making photos for the time being. Really starting to miss it now.

Funnily enough, I was just looking at the AG site and did notice the 12" rolls being sold individually. They work out good value compared to cut sheets...and I will have a heck of a lot of negatives to print once I'm in the new house

 

[mshchem]

Pre-cut paper will cost at least twice as much as the same amount in roll.
Adox is probably willing to cut rolls to order but I doubt this will be economical in small quantities.


If the limiter stopping the inward movement is disabled, the knob allows to align the paper very precisely against the guide. Left hand turns the knob and right hand feels the paper's end at the guide.
Wider rolls do not go into a magazine, they just hang on a piece of plastic pipe (visible on the 2nd photo). This setup is good for up to 42 cm rolls, so standard formats up to 40x50 cm are possible. Another difference with an open roll is that it's aligned to the side, against the 90 degree guide on the cutter. This is not needed with the magazine.
--Andres

Excellent , now I understand the pipe in the photo . I like how you have this set up . Now I have to decide whether I want to buy rolls, cut it and freeze it as especially the wider rolls would last me for years .
Best Mike

 

[yelmarb]

I also prefer Kodak paper.
First, I did try to cut it with just a Rotatrim but the sheets were not uniform enough to my liking. So I built a rig around the Rotatrim.

The paper is in a Fuji MG 180Y minilab magazine. This particular model is suitable because
a) it has a nice big knob for moving the paper both in and out,
b) the out-only limiter can be overridden with a syringe cap,
c) it keeps paper always aligned at 90 degrees.

The magazine sits at left with its feet in holes drilled into a thick plywood plate. Next to it is the Rotatrim, fixed parallel to the magazine. After that comes another piece of plywood for height compensation. The slightly raised length marks are taped onto that last plate and can be easily changed.

The magazine can hold any roll width up to 25 cm and they can be bought very cheap these days. I use a separate roll holder for wider rolls.

A very dim indirect colour paper safelight can help but is not really needed. The cutting speed is about 5 sheets per minute with some experience.

View attachment 168273 View attachment 168274 View attachment 168275 View attachment 168276

Hey @ndrs, that looks like such a good way to cut paper rolls. Do you know if there's a Fuji minilab magazine that can hold 12" (or 30.5cm) paper.

 

[koraks]

Do you know if there's a Fuji minilab magazine that can hold 12" (or 30.5cm) paper.

There should be; 12" is the biggest roll size Fuji minilabs will handle.
Don't use a safelight when cutting the paper (!!)