How about we have a group build of printing frames for our favorite formats?

[eli griggs]

Looking at a beautiful printing frame in the classifieds, I wonder if you, like I, can have a group build of frames for our own darkrooms?

I need a 4”x5”, 5”x7”, 8”x 10”, and 11”x14” frames, for large format negatives, paper negatives, etc.

I propose we set the deadline for January 7 2027, so we can find the material, money, time and designs and put them together.

Any takers of this small project and goals?

 

[mshchem]

I'm already in possession of such items, hardly ever used them. I even have a 20x24 frame that I put new felt on, beautiful thing. I need to get busy and use this stuff.

 

[koraks]

Thread moved to its present sub-forum.

To clarify, this is about a contact printing frame, yes?
I personally have two contact printing frames; a smaller and a larger one. You can print a smaller negative in a larger frame, so technically, you only need a single one. Also, small frames have one key drawback, which is that the paper (or medium) you print on is also limited in size to the dimensions of the frame. If I had a 4x5" frame, I would never use it!

 

[gbroadbridge]

I must be missing something.

I just made a frame for the largest size print I would ever want to make.
Took a couple of hours and maybe $10 in materials.

It's a tool, and only needs to do the job, not look pretty.

 

[eli griggs]

Thread moved to its present sub-forum.

To clarify, this is about a contact printing frame, yes?
I personally have two contact printing frames; a smaller and a larger one. You can print a smaller negative in a larger frame, so technically, you only need a single one. Also, small frames have one key drawback, which is that the paper (or medium) you print on is also limited in size to the dimensions of the frame. If I had a 4x5" frame, I would never use it!

Yes, larger frames can be used with with smaller media, but having a dedicated frame like a 5”x7” frame makes printing so much faster, even using a smaller 4”x5” negative, which lines up more easily.

Traditionally, I’ve been partial to a thick piece of foam and a heavy glass plate for contact printing, but I do admire the function and looks of a wood frame, especially with strips of negatives.

Looks can add to the pleasure one has when using these tools, like the difference of a block of scrap wood and chisel vs. a cast metal Record shoulder plane

 

[gbroadbridge]

Yes, larger frames can be used with with smaller media, but having a dedicated frame like a 5”x7” frame makes printing so much faster, even using a smaller 4”x5” negative, which lines up more easily.

Traditionally, I’ve been partial to a thick piece of foam and a heavy glass plate for contact printing, but I do admire the function and looks of a wood frame, especially with strips of negatives.

Looks can add to the pleasure one has when using these tools, like the difference of a block of scrap wood and chisel vs. a cast metal Record shoulder plane

Oh, process vs product

 

[Don_ih]

I can make pretty much anything. But I use a regular Paterson proof printer for contact prints (I don't have anything bigger than 8x10). I do have a couple of ancient 5x7 (which also work for 4x5) printing frames.

I'd make contact printing frames if I had to make 50 of them, I think.

 

[eli griggs]

The idea is, a fun project to make, not buy, a piece of darkroom kit, and make it so it fits our own working taste, not enter it into a beauty contest.

Practically is key, if you don't want or need a frame, you won't build one, except possible for a fellow darkroom user here.

 

[DREW WILEY]

Beauty and solid precise build tend to go together. Cheap poorly finished wood is just going to warp or fall apart, and likely prove not practical at all. Cheap cushioning and a flexing back, and you're not going to maintain consistent contact. I have one beautiful big old mahogany contact frame (don't use it). The largest film I use is 8X10 anyway; and I just use my regular Condit masking contact frame (precision is an understatement in that case). It's more frustrating and less fun to build a cheap product than an excellent one. But I'm admittedly biassed; I sold woodworking equipment to the finest craftsmen and cabinet shops on the Western half of the continent, and often much further away.

One of my regular customers made a lovely 8x10 mahogany point n' shoot box camera for himself, and carried with him everywhere (plus a tape rule to make sure his subjects were at the right distance for the fixed focal length lens).

I imported Record tools half a century ago. Hand tool use is more of a hobby thing these days; but I still have a couple of lovely British shoulder planes, and in recent decades sold miniature shoulder planes to violin makers, plus German shoulder planes, to match my German power tool selection. (I can do rabbets with my Festool power planer; but more often do them with my deluxe Festool shaper setup). Sorry, I'm not interested in making a bunch of contact frames - need time for color printing in the upcoming months.

Incidentally, I use thick pure silicone foam in my contact frames - it's extremely durable and also UV-resistant to breakdown.

 

[koraks]

a dedicated frame like a 5”x7” frame makes printing so much faster, even using a smaller 4”x5” negative, which lines up more easily.

I don't find it easier to align a 4x5 inside a 5x7 frame than inside an 8x10 frame, really. If anything, the larger frame is easier because there's just more room.

For aligning negative + paper I use masks cut from Rubylith; I cut an opening in the red film to the size of the negative (e.g. 4x5 with or without rebate), then draw lines spaced at 1cm along all edges, radiating outward from the negative. This allows for easy centering of the paper/substrate over the negative without having to actually see the negative.

A handful of these masks cover my needs and they last pretty much forever. I've been using this approach for years.

 

[DREW WILEY]

Alignment is easy for me, since my 8x10 contact glass is pin registered. The two little holes lie in the border, and not inside the image area. Both the film and the paper get punched. I have a 5X7/4x5 punch and register system too, with its own contact printing frame.

 

[mshchem]

I've got an Arkay Speed Dodge contact printer, has 16 individually switched argon filled lamps. You really need contact speed paper, as it's very fast, 1-3 seconds.
Otherwise I just use a piece of glass under the enlarger. I can see the logic in having different sizes.