Houston, we have chemicals...

[jmdavis]

OK,

The Azo is here. The Amidol and pyrocat chemicals are here. The 8x10 and film are here. Wooo, or to be more 21st century WooT. Plan is to shoot film Fri, Sat, and Sunday, still life (with strobes) and outdoor.

Any last minute advice from the contact printing gurus out there? This will be my maiden voyage with Azo, Amidol and Pyrocat. So while I expect to make a mess of something, I definitely want to hear from anyone who has good advice to offer.

Mike

 

[sanking]

OK,

The Azo is here. The Amidol and pyrocat chemicals are here. The 8x10 and film are here. Wooo, or to be more 21st century WooT. Plan is to shoot film Fri, Sat, and Sunday, still life (with strobes) and outdoor.

Any last minute advice from the contact printing gurus out there? This will be my maiden voyage with Azo, Amidol and Pyrocat. So while I expect to make a mess of something, I definitely want to hear from anyone who has good advice to offer.

Mike

So what grade AZO do you have? And what is your film?

Hard to offer any advice without knowing these two things.

Sandy

 

[jmdavis]

Good points Sandy.

The Film is JandC pro 100. The Azo is grade 3.

 

[David]

A word of advise from someone using similiar materials...be careful! You'll have too much fun and be tempted to skip work on Monday. Have a ball.

 

[Digidurst]

Mike,

J&C Pro 100 is a very capable film, but it has been known to develop pinholes in the emulsion. The general consensus is that processing temps should be kept at or below 68F, and a water bath should be used in place of a stop bath. Good luck and happy shooting.

Jay

I have never used a water bath in lieu of a stop bath before - what's the timing for it? Thanks!

 

[noseoil]

If you do your film tests with the water bath, run the film as your numbers indicate. I don't know about going from an acid stop to a water bath. If you have a step wedge, just do two sheets of film and look at the difference (if any) between the highlights to get a feel for it. Probably a small percentage. tim

 

[Donald Qualls]

I have never used a water bath in lieu of a stop bath before - what's the timing for it? Thanks!

I've found it okay to use 2-3 complete changes of water with fifteen seconds of continuous agitation in each -- though I've used the Pro 100 only in 120, not in sheets, I wouldn't expect any difference. It's the same emulsion, just coated on a different base.

 

[jmdavis]

Thanks to all.

I think that I'm going to use a diluted stop as opposed to water. From reading Sandy's posts it would appear that this should be relatively safe. 20 degrees C is my standard processing temp, though maintaining that in the hot Southern US summer will require AC and a water bath for the chemicals. I've needed the AC anyway, so it's not an unexpected expense.

More info if anyone is interested. I will be using the JandC tubes for development. I could also use brush dev, which I've done with 4x5 (for practice).

I now have a working light integrator, so I may attempt to use a 13w blb for azo at some point. Right now, I will be using a 120 or 150w R40. That's about it.

Mike

 

[fhovie]

If you have to use stop bath - make it really weak -
Use gloves - Nitrile are the better ones - pyrocatechin goes right into you if it gets on your skin (you will taste it) - work with the powder outdoors or in a garage - wear a mask - the dust is very fine - use the same precaution for amidol. - both compounds stain like crazy - Pyrocat (bath A) will penetrate some plastics - like the General accordian chemical bottles.

If you return your amidol developer to a plastic bottle and squeeze all the air out - It will last a month and will develop a lot of paper - even non-azo papers - I know all the pros toss it after each printing session but ... I am an amateur.

If your print is too contrasty - use a water bath - one of the things amidol does real well - contrast control! grade 3 AZO has a much shorter scale than grade 2 - so don't over develop your negs - Use stop bath with amidol - It is the only time I use it.

 

[Alex Hawley]

Take it one step at a time Mike, and not many the first time. Take the pictures, develop the film, make the prints. Try to hold back the excitement and work purposely.

 

[jmdavis]

One step at a time

Take it one step at a time Mike, and not many the first time. Take the pictures, develop the film, make the prints. Try to hold back the excitement and work purposely.

I think that this is good advice Alex. But I am excited.

Photography, film and video are the things in my life where I become EXTREMELY OCD. I have little rituals:what goes where in the camera case, where the chemicals are stored on the shelves, how long I prewarm negatives when using the condenser head, and how I agitate film and paper.

I have been thinking about the process for the past week or so. I've read the various versions of tube dev from BTZS to Sandy's to Mike's advice on the JandC tubes. I've read Michaels Azo articles. But, you're right when you advise focusing on one thing at time. Expose, develop, print.

Thanks,

Mike

 

[Magnus]

Perhaps a stupid question ... why don't you order stuff in Europe, everything an ore you mention here is readily available at OK prices, granted you will have to pay for post but then again if you order enough, perhaps a joint order with friends and relatives the end price will be worth it ...
If you want I can give you some links

 

[jmdavis]

Magnus,

I'm in the US. The Southern US. Virginia to be precise.

 

[Alex Hawley]

One more thing Mike, and thanks for jogging my mind. Don't know how you intend to develop your negs, but my suggestion is to try using trays first. I think using tubes actually requires a little more finess than using trays. Give trays a try then go to the tubes when you get the basics down.

 

[Magnus]

JMDavis,

I am sure they will deliver to good old Virginie ....