Horrible result with Rodinal

[Todd Adamson]

Glad you like the results you're getting, that's the main thing.

But... whenever you have time or courage: staining or "pyro" developers have many advantages, particularly if you are scanning. Let me suggest wd2d+ in particular. Buy the liquid stuff, it comes in two bottles. You mix that with water and voila. Keep forever. Excellent results.

Thanks, I shall look into that. Shelf life and ease of mixing are the two biggest factors, so that sounds like something I should try. Too bad I just placed an order with Freestyle last week, or I'd order it now.

 

[TheFlyingCamera]

If you're talking about staining developers, I'll put in a plug for Pyrocat HD - it's also a two part liquid. Bostick & Sullivan ships part A dehydrated, but you just add warm water to reconstitute it and you're in business. It too lasts a very long time in stock form - I've had a bottle of stock that's lasted a year. Diluted and combined to working strength, you're on the clock to the tune of an hour or so before it starts to oxidize, but that's true with most of the staining developers. They're great for contrast control, as the stain serves as a contrast mask and helps keep highlights under control.

 

[brucemuir]

Im still using a PMK liquid kit from 2004-5

Some say Pyro produces too much grain for 135 but I haven't really seen it.

 

[TheFlyingCamera]

Pyro gives the APPEARANCE of grain when looking at the negative. The stain masks the grain when printing.

 

[2F/2F]

Can't you see the obvious? The sitter is most clearly giving you the evil eye! Your film was cursed! Cursed, I say!

 

[Murray Kelly]

Looks like a scanner problem. I've seen that with phenidone but never with p-aminophenol.

 

[Todd Adamson]

UPDATE: I've just refixed this roll, and based on a quick inspection of the worst areas with a 10x loupe, it looks like they might be OK. They're drying right now, and not sure if I will have time to scan today, but if I do, I'll post back.

 

[Thomas Bertilsson]

When you fix negatives, with rapid fixer it shouldn't take more than about 30-40 seconds to clear a film strip. Upwards a minute and it's time to replace it. Just take a piece of 35mm film, like the leader you trim off before you load your film into the reels and tank, and dunk it in your fixer with agitation.

Even though it takes no more than about 30 seconds (or less) with fresh fixer to clear a film strip, it isn't a bad idea to fix for five minutes using Ilford Delta, Kodak TMax, or Fuji Neopan Acros. If you use traditional grain films, you can probably get away with three minutes, although five minutes will not hurt a thing.

Good luck, and I hope the re-fix solves your issues.

 

[Todd Adamson]

Either underfixed or film touching in spiral, or exposed to light before fully fixed. Possibly a refix could correct. If not, it was exposed to light.

Looks like you called it right out of the gate, Rick! Same roll here, different image. The one I posted originally was on a strip that's taking longer to dry, and it wasn't one of the shots I really cared about from this roll anyway.

I really appreciate everyone's input here, I learned some important stuff.

I don't generally mind making mistakes if they make be better in the future, and this was certainly the case here. Had I not been able to figure out what the issue was, I would have been fairly frustrated.