Homemade Stop Bath Recipe

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lightwisps

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Does anyone have a "recipe" for making stop bath for B/W paper developing? It is almost impossible to buy commercially in my local area. Thanks, don
 

ath

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I take 4 teaspoons of citric acid for one liter.
 

23mjm

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You could always use water as a stop, there is a group who think thats the way to go!!!

I normally use a acid stop but when processing Efke/Adox I use water and get great results!!!

Just a thought.
 

PhotoJim

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I use water with film (I use an alkaline fix so this is preferable) but I use stop bath with prints.
 

Ole

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One tablespoon of citric acid in two liters of water. Less smell, more capacity.

----

Edit: That's pretty much the same as "ath" said. :smile:
 

Ed Sukach

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One part common white vinegar to 4 parts of water = 1% Acetic acid solution.

Smell...? I guess there are those who are extremely sensitive to the odor of what is an extremely *weak* salad dressing.
 

kimballmcgary

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I tried it last night. Citric acid definitely stopped. I ran out of fixer so I'll have a better report later this week for citric acid vs Kodak stop bath. I'll try to run some A/B tests. My guess is... Nothing will be better than bonified STOP product but I always like knowing DIY emergency solutions.
 

Donald Qualls

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It's not exactly news that citric acid works as stop bath; commercial "odorless" stop products are based on citric acid.

All that's really required is a solution pH below about 5.5 and enough buffering or reserve acidity that the stuff has a useful capacity. Even slightly higher pH will stop development, but 5.5 will allow you to use bromocresol purple as an indicator, same as commercial indicator stop bath -- and the yellow solution will turn purple (black under yellow safelight) when it's exhausted.
 

MattKing

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Not news, but cannot find A/B testing for citric acid vs stop. Please share if you know of any.

Citric acid is stop bath, if you mix it to the appropriate concentration.
Just as acetic acid is, plus I'm sure a few others.
Water can be a stop bath, if used appropriately.
When it comes to the film or prints, all of them will give the same results if used appropriately.
Some act more quickly. Some help maintain the health of fixer. Some are better at preventing dichroic fog or continued unwanted development in alkaline fixers.
Some smell worse than others. Some are easier to find than others. Some are cheaper than others.
 

mshchem

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Citric acid is the only way to go. Crystalline citric acid is readily available on Ebay, most every kind available is food grade so purity isn't an issue. The Ilford stop with indicator (bromocresol purple) is super easy and lasts a long time.

One thing to consider is if you drop a bottle of glacial acetic you're going to need to evacuate, spilled citric acid just needs a dust pan.
 

MattKing

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Donald Qualls

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In North Carolina, slightly upmarket supermarkets (Lowe's Foods and Harris Teeter -- the latter a Kroger subsidiary) sell it in the canning supplies section.
 
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