Home Made B&W Developers.

[Keith Tapscott.]

Everything I use is store bought, but I would not be adverse to trying it, if I had more space to store and use chemistry.

The additional thing I find interesting about this thread is that with one exception only, every person posting is either a subscriber or a moderator (Edit: or an advertiser) here on APUG.
Matt

I didn`t notice to be honest. You do get benefits by becoming a subscriber though, such as access to the galleries and joining social groups.
As the saying goes, "If you can`t beat them, join them".

 

[Keith Tapscott.]

What I am currently doing other than fooling around with some custom made formula's, is making my own D-76 from the standard formula, but only as needed and the volume required.
I use that well within a week of mixing, so there is no excess unused stock turning bad on the shelf in the darkroom. My preference is to dilute it 1+1 and use it as a one-shot developer.

 

[dancqu]

What I am currently doing other than fooling around with
some custom made formula's, is making my own D-76
from the standard formula, but only as needed and
the volume required.
I use that well within a week of mixing, so there is no
excess unused stock turning bad on the shelf in the
darkroom. My preference is to dilute it 1+1 and
use it as a one-shot developer.

Over the year I may average once a week at darkroom
work and while at it the amount of film or prints is very
low. Years ago I stocked with off-the-shelf only to see it
going bad.

So, to continue with my interest in photography I tackled
the BIG hurdle, a quality 200 gram 0.01 resolution and
accuracy Acculab scale. The 200 grams capacity has
proved to be more than enough. Fractional batches
of chemistry at or near time of use is the rule
of the day. Planning ahead, nothing goes
back on the shelf. Dan

 

[Igor Savchenko]

I make ABC pyro, PMK, and Paul Farber's Acufine-ish speed developer for film...

David -

could you please tell your method of using Acufine clone: full strength (replenished?), diluted, times, agitation?

Many thanks.

Igor

 

[BradS]

I would be interested to know what your development times are for Konica SD-28 Brad. Fomadon-P is made to the Kodak D-76d formula and the development times are significantly longer than those for standard D-76/ID-11. Axford and Kendall of Ilford Ltd found that 0.25 grams of potassium bromide per litre of stock D-76d (also known as Ilford ID-166) was the practical limit before a loss of emulsion speed occurred. Konica SD-28 contains 0.4 gram of potassium bromide per litre.
D-76d with 0.25 gram of potassium bromide is called Kodak SD-21.

Today I did a side-by-side film speed type test comparing SD-28 to D-76(1+1). I shot two rolls of Ilford Delta 100 rated at box speed. The relative exposure of successive frames was: 0, -3, -2, -1, 0, +1, +2, +3, +4, +5.

I processed one roll in SD-28(1+0) for 12 minutes - this is the mfgr's recommended time for D-76(1+1) and,

I processed the second roll in homebrew D-76(1+1) for 11 minutes - the mfgr's recommended time for ID-11(1+1). I used D-76(1+1) as my control because this is my normal developer.

I have not yet printed these but, looking at the negative strips, I see very, very little difference between the two films. There are differences...but they are very subtle and really very difficult to quantify. There may in fact, be a slight loss of speed with the SD-28 - but, if there is it is insignificantly small. Certainly no more than 1/2 stop. I am surprised to report that appears to be no significant difference (again with the naked eye) between the two with respect to base fog.

The main advantage of SD-28 appears therefore, to be in it's additional buffering capacity - which is irrelevant if not used in a replenished system as far as I am concerned. Prints may say otherwise however.

Oh, so in short, for SD-28 straight, I use the mfgr's recommended time for d-76 (1+1) -- as suggested by R. Suzuki.

 

[Keith Tapscott.]

Today I did a side-by-side film speed type test comparing SD-28 to D-76(1+1). I shot two rolls of Ilford Delta 100 rated at box speed. The relative exposure of successive frames was: 0, -3, -2, -1, 0, +1, +2, +3, +4, +5.

I processed one roll in SD-28(1+0) for 12 minutes - this is the mfgr's recommended time for D-76(1+1) and,

I processed the second roll in homebrew D-76(1+1) for 11 minutes - the mfgr's recommended time for ID-11(1+1). I used D-76(1+1) as my control because this is my normal developer.

I have not yet printed these but, looking at the negative strips, I see very, very little difference between the two films. There are differences...but they are very subtle and really very difficult to quantify. There may in fact, be a slight loss of speed with the SD-28 - but, if there is it is insignificantly small. Certainly no more than 1/2 stop. I am surprised to report that appears to be no significant difference (again with the naked eye) between the two with respect to base fog.

The main advantage of SD-28 appears therefore, to be in it's additional buffering capacity - which is irrelevant if not used in a replenished system as far as I am concerned. Prints may say otherwise however.

Oh, so in short, for SD-28 straight, I use the mfgr's recommended time for d-76 (1+1) -- as suggested by R. Suzuki.

Brad, your findings seem to run parallel with mine. I too found that considerably longer times are required with D-76d (SD-28 is the same with 0.4 gram of KBr added), although I found the standard D-76/ID-11 formula to match the packaged developer for development times. I also find that using D-76/ID-11 diluted 1+1, seems to provide better detail and density in the thinner areas of the negative (shadows) than the fresh stock solution does with some slow and medium speed films.

As there is less borax required and no boric acid in the standard formula, I don`t see the point in using D-76d. I prefer standard formula diluted 1+1 instead of the stock solution, so it is more economical to use as well.
D-76 is quite an old formula now and probably has too much sulphite for the modern B&W films. I have been experimenting with my own custom variant of D-76 which is made more concentrated and diluted further for one-shot use.
I started making this with carbonate and bicarbonate, but I have since switched back to borates for buffering.

 

[Keith Tapscott.]

...exactly what I was thinking....no need to waste a roll or two to season the tank....but, then, I'm using it one shot in a jobo...so...I'm up in the night anyway.

In that case, the stock solution could be a better choice if several film rolls or sheets are processed together in the same tank/drum. (I over looked this post).

 

[JPD]

I mix Agfa 17 for film, and Agfa 100 for paper. Sometimes Ansco 130, Agfa 8 and modified Mimosa Nr. 3.

 

[nworth]

I mix just about everything for B&W from scratch. My standard film developer is D-76. It is available in packages, but I find it more convenient and a lot cheaper to mix my own. My standard print developer is Defender 54-D. It is no longer available, and I have to mix my own. (I think I like Liquidol better, which is a packaged commercial developer, but convenience keeps me mixing up my own.) I use Kodak F-34 fixer for both film and prints. It's not available in packages. I mix my own because that is both cheap and convenient. I also mix up a variety of other developers, toners, and other things from time to time. I'm not in the darkroom every day, and the convenience of being able to mix up just the right amount of what I want, when I want it, is important to me. I also like to do a little experimenting sometimes.

 

[removed account4]

I tried that with Caffenol C and D-76 1:3 at a 50/50 mixture and it turned out pretty good.

i haven't tried it with a film developer yet ..
just what i tend to have on hand ...

 

[Jim Chinn]

I have made dektol and a couple of variations of Vitamin C devlopers, Ansco 130 and Pyrocat HC from the raw chemicals. I can get all of these mixed comercially so I don't mix my own on a regular basis, but its good to know that if the commercial products are discontinued I am covered.

 

[olehjalmar]

How many of you here on apug actually mix your own film and/or print developers from the basic raw constituents? If you do, which formulas do you make?
I am curious to know what you make and why you do it.

I mix D-23, Beutler's metol-sulfite-carbonate developer, and occasionally a Stoeckler-type divided developer. Also tried the metol-only variation of D-76 attributed to Haist a couple of times.
Why? Besides the fun of experimentation, all the above are simple formulas and dead easy to mix either from powdered chemicals or stock solutions, so it's not really much more work than mixing prepackaged powdered chemicals. Sometimes I develop a lot, other times there may be months between each developing session, so it is convenient to be able to mix exactly what I need when I need it. I have also been experimenting a bit with dilute Beutler developer and two bath developers for the CMS 20 document film lately.

 

[Tref Hopkins]

D72, D163, PMK+, slight variation of Barry Thornton's variation of Stoeckler, plain hypo from crystal for all papers and pyro or stoeckler films, any toners except gold or selenium. I keep a well stocked shelf of chemical components! ^_^

I do make use of Rodinal, HC110 and 'rapid' ammonia fixers (in no particular order) for films; all bought in. Don't necessarily use the commercial devs per instruct though, and may significantly over-dilute (depends what I'm doing). I also buy in lith dev, although by the time you've dosed it with additives and old brown it's practically home-brew too!

I bought a miniature balance years ago and use that with filter papers for small amounts. I use a regular battery kitchen Salter for more significant amounts. Generally I mix in a stainless steel 5l bucket, a plastic Paterson jug or standard lab pyrex, depending what I'm doing. I usually try to mix PMK+ outdoors and live in fear of the rubber taste!

While I use filtered mains water for most things, I use de-mineralised water for film devs. I buy it in poly barrels from local chemistry suppliers. I'm told that water from a de-humidifier would be as good, but have never liked the idea!

 

[Photo Engineer]

Do not use water from a dehumidifier. It tends to collect mold spores and bacteria along with house dust. Our Vet told us that it was not even marginally good for our cat with a kidney problem. If you look in the dehumidifier tank, you can see the slime growing there unless you add an inhibitor and the inhibitor is not good for photo solutions.

PE

 

[pcyco]

hallo

d-23
d-72
d-76

i want to try more.

 

[Tref Hopkins]

Thanks for confirming my fears on that PE! I always thought it sounded like a bad idea. I don't run one myself so I've never had the chance to look at the product, but every so often a photographer colleague would express surprise I was buying water and offer me the stuff from his machine. I'll just carry on politely refusing!

 

[RobertV]

I am making Beutler A+B and W665 (Windisch) myself.

Beutler A+B DIY: http://www.flickr.com/groups/1104010@N24/discuss/72157620677933656/

W665 : Based on Ortho-Phenylene Diamin

Beutler works perfect on Efke films and Fuji Acros 100 at box speed and W665 makes the grain of each film < iso 200 invisable even in 35mm format.

 

[Mike Wilde]

I am a fiddler that mixes up all sorts of varaitions; I usally order my fix principal constituent of Amm Thio 60% from Claire at JD Photochem. By the time this gets mailed to me adding a few packages of 100g of this or 250g of that makes virtually no impact on the shipping cost. So over time I have built up in my stock all sort of developer and toner ingregients. I hear she is winding her business up, so my habbits may change.

I consistently mix for film: d-76, Harveys 777, FX-37, PMK, (although the PMK once mixed lasts almost forever for me). Ocassionally I mixd-23 for low contrst, and for higher contrast D-19, D-85, and a very dilute developer I can't recall the name of to get continuous tone out of lithographic film ( for ortho develop by inspection unsharp masks ). Also first developers for transparancies with almost all the same ingredients. I have dabbled with vitamin C and a few other way out developing agents in the ppd family. Not all of them are nice to you, so take care, and read up on the MSDFS sheets before you play, and know when it is a vent fan, when it isa vent fan and mask and gloves, etc.

For print developer I mix a dektol/d-72 type developer, a selectol soft type developer (ansco 120 I believe), the wonderful ansco 130, and others as the urge of the image strikes me.

Yes, It is a sort of disease.

 

[Iain Maclachlan]

I wanted to buy some chems from a local supplier here in Melbourne Australia. They tell me that they are no longer stocking anything including metol or kodalk and won't order any in. Any suggestions of where I can source chemicals?

 

[aldevo]

I wanted to buy some chems from a local supplier here in Melbourne Australia. They tell me that they are no longer stocking anything including metol or kodalk and won't order any in. Any suggestions of where I can source chemicals?

The best way to get an answer might be to open another thread in this forum or the "Australia" regional forum.

 

[FotoGys]

Film: Beutlers high definition dev (occasionally with borax instead of sodium carbonate), maybe in time some experiments with pyrocat.
Paper: Chris Patton's E72

Basic reason is the availability of simple ingredients, and very good results in the first rounds. I'am just starting up with mixing my own chemicals.

 

[RobertV]

Any suggestions of where I can source chemicals?

http://www.photoformulary.com/DesktopDefault.aspx in the USA.

CG-chemicals, Germany. Here you can buy in "small" quantities but I am not sure they ship oversea, but you can ask.
PM for further info.

For Beutler you can use washing Soda, which is very cheap (in Holland) €0,79/1000g.
http://www.senzora.com/index.asp?subpage=soda.asp&pg=2&mi=5


Best regards,

Robert

 

[fschifano]

No, I don't. I like what I get from the pre-packaged stuff, and I figure the people who make it know what they're doing. I don't find that mixing my own would be any more economical either. By the time I amortized the cost of the raw chemistry and the equipment I'd need to buy, I'll be dead and gone.

 

[PhotoJim]

No, I don't. I like what I get from the pre-packaged stuff, and I figure the people who make it know what they're doing. I don't find that mixing my own would be any more economical either. By the time I amortized the cost of the raw chemistry and the equipment I'd need to buy, I'll be dead and gone.

$25 for a scale.

I've spent probably $100 on bulk chemicals but I've made at least that much in dollar value of chemistry out of it. The PMK I mixed up would probably have cost $40 all by itself.

 

[RobertV]

Depending what you're making it can be interesting but I agree that for only making D76 you can better buy a pre-package of 3,8Ltr. especially if you are working with small quantities like 35mm and roll film development.