Highest safe temperature for B&W film?

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koraks

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Is the forum a test laboratory for wannabe chemists or do they go out and take photographs?
It seems to come with the territory. When photographers flock together, for some reason the discussion nearly always gets technical. I think most of us like to tinker. I certainly do. It does get in the way of actual photography. What can you do?
 
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And, by the way, I just used 32C for dissolving the AHU with no ill effects. I still did 20 minutes because I had 4 rolls in there with quite valuable shots, but starting from here I'll be reducing the pre-wash time until the white dots appear again.
 

BMbikerider

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You obviously didn't read the post by AFGX Foma film does not apparently have AHU (whatever that is.) If your film has a fault dump it and get replacements life is not worth worrying about trivialities. Also the post by R Gould that the AHU will dissolve out during normal processing.

Yes do what they tell you or the world will come crashing down around your ears. I have used Foma and just developed as normal without a problem.
 

koraks

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You obviously didn't read the post by AFGX Foma film does not apparently have AHU (whatever that is.)
The film does have anti halation dyes (in 120 and sheet film at least, not in 35mm), but perhaps not an anti halation undercoat (AHU). The cause of the problem being related to these dyes is apparently already established so there's no need to go over the question of necessity yet another time. He just wants a very thorough prewash, lets assume that he actually needs it.
 
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You obviously didn't read the post by AFGX Foma film does not apparently have AHU (whatever that is.) If your film has a fault dump it and get replacements life is not worth worrying about trivialities. Also the post by R Gould that the AHU will dissolve out during normal processing.

Unless they work for Foma Bohemia, I am not interested in anyone's theories on Foma's AHU. Fomapan themselves provided instructions to take the extra steps to dissolve the AHU for this defective batch. I have the film right here, always had. I need no help from Internet strangers seeing anti-halation layer. I've been shooting 3 rolls a week of it for months. Why the hell would I care what AFGX, or R Gould, or anyone else here thinks about this as I already have Fomapan instructions to deal with the issue?

As I have zero interest in anyone's opinion on Fomapan AHU, I did not make it the topic of this thread. Save your lectures for your kids, and focus on the question on the whiteboard: "highest safe water temperature for B&W film".
 
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Sorry gents, but today is the day when I just can't take unwanted/uncalled lectures anymore. Perhaps I spent too much time on photrio and I'm tired. Hope tomorrow will be different.
 
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The film does have anti halation dyes (in 120 and sheet film at least, not in 35mm), but perhaps not an anti halation undercoat (AHU). The cause of the problem being related to these dyes is apparently already established so there's no need to go over the question of necessity yet another time. He just wants a very thorough prewash, lets assume that he actually needs it.

@koraks: what is it about these dyes that only a long pre-wash removes them but not an extended post-wash? Does Foma tell why post-wash is ineffective?
 
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BMbikerider

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The film does have anti halation dyes (in 120 and sheet film at least, not in 35mm), but perhaps not an anti halation undercoat (AHU). The cause of the problem being related to these dyes is apparently already established so there's no need to go over the question of necessity yet another time. He just wants a very thorough prewash, lets assume that he actually needs it.


OK then why come onto the forum and start complaining about the length of time it needs for pre soak? A waste of time! I don't normally repeat myself but with 120 I have never had to pre-soak for any length of time. I just don't do it.
 

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Unless they work for Foma Bohemia, I am not interested in anyone's theories on Foma's AHU. Fomapan themselves provided instructions to take the extra steps to dissolve the AHU for this defective batch. I have the film right here, always had. I need no help from Internet strangers seeing anti-halation layer. I've been shooting 3 rolls a week of it for months. Why the hell would I care what AFGX, or R Gould, or anyone else here thinks about this as I already have Fomapan instructions to deal with the issue?

As I have zero interest in anyone's opinion on Fomapan AHU, I did not make it the topic of this thread. Save your lectures for your kids, and focus on the question on the whiteboard: "highest safe water temperature for B&W film".
Well, in that case let me just say this: you post a question then you come back stomping like a sour grape. I don't mean to get personal, which you seem to be getting with all those who question your way of dealing with a defective batch (although didn't you say you have no packaging so you don't really know it is the one Foma admitted to bastardize in production, so only the symptoms appear same as other confirmed cases?).

Everyone does things differently. Shooting bad emulsion without stopping and trying to do what , apparently , Foma did NOT tell you to do, which is "see how hot I can process it" is something that you have made a choice off.

So complain and indeed lecture others of how upset you have become over some comments is not likely the way to respond. I think the thread had signs of getting somewhat contentious from the get go, as most do that deal with "unorthodox" deeds. i just wondered from the beginning why ask the question to start with? There was no straight answer coming no matter what. And to me your film should have been replaced by Freestyle at no charge and with apologies, if they are not out to get people that is.

Responding specifically to your question: you need to test a piece of film with higher and higher temperature until physical damage occurs, then dial back. Since some of potential negative effect may not be showing for a long time, here is where I lose logic behind this whole process.

If Foma cannot tell you how hot you can go, the only sensible approach is to use max temperature Foma actually supports, and of all sources, Foma is the only one to know that. The rest of feedback is simply an anecdotal advice that may not be even applicable to your situation at all.

But in the end good luck trying. It's clear you want to make things better with what you have and it's fine.
 

pentaxuser

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And, by the way, I just used 32C for dissolving the AHU with no ill effects. I still did 20 minutes because I had 4 rolls in there with quite valuable shots, but starting from here I'll be reducing the pre-wash time until the white dots appear again.
So I'd conclude you have solved your problem. Well done. All we can reasonably ask of you now is that if future Foma films exhibit this problem and hopefully as the faulty batch is used/ returned this problem will go away, then to help other Foma users, let us know if your current solution does give any future problems.

Thanks

pentaxuser
 
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