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Naples

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To analyse whether you have real, objective contour / edge sharpness or only a subjective sharpness impression you have to take shots under the same conditions and then enlarge big or put the negs under a microscope.
Under a microscope you clearly see the differences in sharpness.
A real, objective sharp film has clear, homogenous contours and clear separated details.
Grainier films in most cases have more frazzled, unravelled contours. Objective sharpness is much lower (nevertheless there are some exceptions from this rule).

Under the microscope TMY-2 has much better contour sharpness than Tri-X. Edges are more clear, details much better separated and resolved. There is no competition,Tri-X has no chance at all.
And BW 400 CN even surpasses TMY-2 by a slight margin (only visible at extreme enlargements).

But as we all know, sometimes grainier films can subjectively look a bit sharper due to a sharp grain appearance, especially at smaller enlargements.

Best regards,
Henning
I am familiar with the claimed superior "sharpness" of T-Max 400 under the microscope (although I've never looked).

But my post - and question - has to do with the sharpness of T-Max 400 vis-a-vis Tri-X 400 to the naked eye.

After all, do we shoot for the microscope, or the naked eye? Do we choose a Toyota over a Ferrari because the Toyota has more beautiful pistons? :smile:

As I pointed out in my earlier post, the link provided by Fabrizio (http://bit.ly/p8jmuz) shows, on page 9, the Tri-X image to be noticeably sharper than the T-Max 400 image (same subject under same light). Regardless of what a microscope might reveal about those two images, do you agree that the Tri-X image is sharper to your eye than the T-Max 400 image?
 
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Where can one buy Agfa Copex Rapid 120 in the United States?

I'm not sure about the Copex Rapid, but you could try some Rollie ATP 1.1 Advnaced Tech Pan from Freestyle for $5.99 per roll, or my personal favorite, the Adox CMS 20 for the same price.
I think you can shoot the Rollie ATP @ 30 ISO or so. I shot the CMS 20 @ 12 ISO if I remember correctly.

It really is amazing detail capture and worth trying a little. I don't want to sound like I would recommend it for every situation, because hey - who really wants to lug a tripod around all the time? (I know, because I used to do that each and every time I shot.) I mean, if you want to do some street shooting hand held on an overcast day, load up some T-Max and go. That is nice film too. Just in a different category.
If you really want some incredible enlargements...and you're going to be doing some slow, methodical shooting anyway ... this stuff is awesome. :cool:
 

georg16nik

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firm hand, Leitz I @1/40, yellow filter, CMS 20 @ 25 in Adotech (v1). cheap plustek 7400 scan
Dead Link Removed
 

DREW WILEY

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This is an interesting thread which will inspire me to do some new testing. But there have been a few
strange statements. One is the notion that the dimensional instabilty of acetate base is inconsequential.
If you ever do unsharp masking or any other kind of registration work, acetate film is hell. The other
peculiar statement concerns Tri-X film: many photographers do wonderful work with it; but for me it's
too grainy even for 8X10 use, and is about the last thing I'd call high resolution.
 
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. . .But my post - and question - has to do with the sharpness of T-Max 400 vis-a-vis Tri-X 400 to the naked eye.
. . .
As I pointed out in my earlier post, the link provided by Fabrizio (http://bit.ly/p8jmuz) shows, on page 9, the Tri-X image to be noticeably sharper than the T-Max 400 image (same subject under same light). Regardless of what a microscope might reveal about those two images, do you agree that the Tri-X image is sharper to your eye than the T-Max 400 image?

Hmmm...OK, I will bite.
Looking at the date on that article, the T-Max 400 in question is surely the OLD T-Max 400. It was not nearly as good (more grainy, etc) as the New T-Max 400. In fact, many would have rather shot Tri-X then, instead. This changed after the new emulsion was released (after this article was "printed"). Keeping all other variables the same, but re-shooting this exact test in 2011, you would see a decent amount of improvement with the New T-Max 400 emulsion.

Secondly, what developer did they use? If they used the same developer on the T-Max 400 and the Tri-X, (such as D76) they probably did the T-Max 400 a disservice.

Third, we are not really looking at "normal prints" per se. What we are seeing there is a contact print, which has been scanned in on a computer, and then "blown up" in Photoshop type software 13x. This IS going to give a different result than sticking the negative(s) under an enlarger, lifting the column for 13x magnification, and making a cropped print.
The chief difference is what the [low quality, flatbed] scanner picked up off that contact print. It is going to emphasize the hard edge of Tri-X due to its increase micro-contrast and grain compared to the T-Max 400, and therefore LOOK sharper. This does not mean there is more "actual" detail in the Tri-X negative. Far from it.

Lastly, indeed, a piece of Tri-X could appear sharper / higher resolving at a certain viewing distance because of the increased contrast and hard edge of the grain. There is always a trade off between "sharpness" and perceived grain. The New T-Max 400 could be developed so that it has less grain and greater sharpness than Tri-X, but some developers increase sharpness and some decrease graininess, and you can't have the best of both in one chemistry. You can find the best compromise, but we don't even know what the tester used here.

That should pretty much explain the results you're seeing. I can guarantee you that if you're after high resolving power (yet high speed film), the New T-Max 400 is going to be a considerable improvement on shooting Tri-X. Granted, Tri-X can be a beautiful film, and has its moments, but what we're talking about this thread isn't one of them. :wink:
 

Роберт

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I have just made some split grade prints on 40x50cm from 6x7cm Efke 25 and ATP1.1 35mm and I can just say now that for resolution and sharpness it's almost the same. It's increadible that a 35mm film (Copex type) E.I. 25-32 can compete with medium format 6x7cm on a classical iso 25-32 (developer Beutler A+B) film. But my film developer (120 roll film) costs are pretty low so not a main reason to use Copex now. More interesting is that wide open my 35mm RF is 2,0 (Summicron) and the MF RF is 3,5 . And if I want the same Orthopan charateristics I can always change to Acros 100 or Rollei Retro 100 Tonal where the last is very simmular to Efke 25. Nice material too.
But Henning is right: Increadible good material these new micro type films!
 
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I am familiar with the claimed superior "sharpness" of T-Max 400 under the microscope (although I've never looked).

But my post - and question - has to do with the sharpness of T-Max 400 vis-a-vis Tri-X 400 to the naked eye.

My experience with TMY-2 and Tri-X with different developers: Comparing prints TMY-2 always has better sharpness, higher resolution and finer grain.
So for me the difference is not only visible in scientific tests, but also in my normal daily photography.

Best regards,
Henning
 

Film-Niko

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Where can one buy Agfa Copex Rapid 120 in the United States?

Just ask Freestyle, Digitaltruth, Ultrafineonline, B&H, Adorama to order the films and the dedicated Spur Modular UR New developer (with part A1 and part B) for you.

If they take customer service seriously and want satiesfied customers, they will certainly order these items for you and other interested photographers.

Otherwise order directly from Europe, for example from www.macodirect.de, www.ars-imago.com, or www.spur-photo.com .
 

cmo

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I see that some people do not like what I say ("if it's right for you, fine, but don't tell everybody that it's for everyone").

Now we really reach the stage of advertising, don't we? :getlost:
 

Film-Niko

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I see that some people do not like what I say ("if it's right for you, fine, but don't tell everybody that it's for everyone").

1. Please read the postings you refer to. No one has used the sentence "these films are for everyone".
But all photographers here in this thread who have really used these films say that they have not had severe problems using them.
We with experience say using these films is quite easy, you with no experience with this type of films are saying it is difficult.

2. What we critize is that you are permanently bashing films you have never used. No experience at all on your side.
Again: A forum is for talking about real experiences, not for propagating prejudices.


Now we really reach the stage of advertising, don't we? :getlost:

You have started advertising here by permanently bashing products you have never used (and which are from manufacturers you don't like in general),
and by repeating of impudent marketing lies from Kodak (TMX being the sharpest, finest grained BW film, which it has never been, even at it's introduction time Kodak Technical Pan, Agfa APX 25 and Agfaortho 25 all had better sharpness, higher resolution and finer grain).

You are well known for bashing products you have never used on different forums and spamming threads with Kodak marketing.
You are sitting in a glasshouse, you should not throw stones.
 

georg16nik

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At least in the 135 format.. Agfa Copex Rapid, Spur, Adox CMS 20, Rollei ATP etc. etc. high resolution films are like the beer - some people don't like it (don't "get it"), up until 6th grade :wink:
 

removed account4

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threads like this ... as i said earlier, always amuse me because people go on about
things that i couldn't imagine even mattering at all in making good photographs.
film base instability ??

i don't think a fraction of a mm matters, ...

i would love to see some photographs, not graphs and tables
or text, that show how film base instability, has anything to do
with the person behind the camera .. composing, exposing, processing and
printing an OK photograph ( they don't even need to be good )

:munch:
 
Joined
Jan 17, 2005
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Downers Grov
T Max 100 and D76 1:1 or Extol will get you all normally needed quality.

Delta 100 gets close.

Paper makes no difference. It all resolves more than your eye can see.

You will need to concentrate on making a sharp image, tripod, good lens, well alligned enlarger and a really good enlarging lens. If you do not solve these issues, film does not matter.
 

cmo

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1. Please read the postings you refer to. No one has used the sentence "these films are for everyone".
But all photographers here in this thread who have really used these films say that they have not had severe problems using them.
We with experience say using these films is quite easy, you with no experience with this type of films are saying it is difficult.

Dear "Film-Niko",

I saw many negatives and prints from these films, and many friends of mine used them. They shared their experiences, and I can tell you that most of them are pretty experienced people that I can count on. Most of them stopped using this type of films after a while, the word 'disenchantment' describes quite well what they say. Only very few of them use them from time to time.

Most of them said things like these:

- Results were not consistent.
- There were streaks and cloudy areas.
- Shooting at higher apertures than 5.6 ruins the shots due to diffraction.
- The difference between these specialty films and normal films does not justify the high costs.
- The images look 'digital'.

I don't have to pay money to find out that I don't like something if it's obvious that I won't like it. If you love "Klingon Blood Stew" that does not mean that everyone's mouth starts to water when you mention it.

Nobody said "these films are for everyone" literally. But in many posts that you can read here the problems that were visible in many photos and heard from many people were trivialized, and I simply remind people that they better don't spend money for a method that might be half-baked or only suitable for very experienced users.

You describe yourself and the others that like these films as "We with experience".

Do I need to say more? Just don't seduce beginners or people with less experience to follow that road. This is not a crusade, this is a forum for photographers to help each other. It's not made for you and a handful of others to proclaim that the Peoples' Front of Judea is much better than the Judean People's Front. Splitter. :whistling:

2. What we critize is that you are permanently bashing films you have never used. No experience at all on your side.
Again: A forum is for talking about real experiences, not for propagating prejudices.

I am not bashing films.
I am bashing the fact that some people mislead other users to do things that they might regret.
I am bashing evangelists that deny problems and praise products as if it were their own.

You have started advertising here by permanently bashing products you have never used (and which are from manufacturers you don't like in general),...

First of all, criticism is not advertising, it's more like the opposite :D

Secondly, if you are happy with your film and developer, why do you care as long as you don't want to sell your story or a film? What happens if someone does not like your Porsche? What if he does not want to buy one to find out that it has a small trunk and needs a lot of fuel? What if he explains that a Porsche is not for a novice driver? Will you start an online flame war against that critic because he does not have a Porsche and does not see how great it is to drive at 55 mph in a car that is fast enough for the racing track? Or will you declare that he is probably a Volkswagen marketing agent because he recommended not to sell Porsches to novice drivers?

A Porsche driver might say "So, what, that critic does not want to know how great this car is... look at that.. that's a sexy turn-signal lever..."

But only a Porsche dealer or a megalomaniac Porsche sermonizer on drugs would start to talk about the critic's life of sin and depravity.

Of course, an Agfa Copex Rapid is not the equivalent of a Porsche... :whistling:

...and by repeating of impudent marketing lies from Kodak (TMX being the sharpest, finest grained BW film, which it has never been, even at it's introduction time Kodak Technical Pan, Agfa APX 25 and Agfaortho 25 all had better sharpness, higher resolution and finer grain).

First of all, I use more Acros than Tmax 100 for landscapes recently - PE, forgive me :smile:
For street photography in bright daylight I started using Orwo NP54 movie stock film, comparable to Kodak 5222. If I need more speed I switched from Tri-X to Tmax 400, an outstanding film, but that, of course, is only an individual opinion and has nothing to do with reality:

(there was a url link here which no longer exists)

In this thread I used Tmax 100 as an example; think "Delta 100" or "Acros" every time I said "Tmax", okay? Do you feel better now? Wipe away the foam from your mouth, please.

Don't you think that in today's competitive world Ilford and Fuji would ask their lawyers to rain on Kodak's parade if Kodak would spread "impudent marketing lies"? Of course, they all have the finest, sharpest film, that's an ongoing story since Daguerre. But their marketing guys will always watch what the others do and start a lawsuit if a competitor goes too far.

Secondly, you compare apples with historic oranges. None of the films you mention is still available. Kodak Technical Pan, Agfa APX 25 and Agfaortho 25, aren' they all gone?

If we talk about today's films that are made for general photography and can be processed with half-way normal developers you must not omit that you want to talk about document films that need special treatment. That's not a different species, it's a different genus, so you even compare normal apples with a duck-billed platypus.

Don't forget to mention that Agfa Copex Rapid is not available as perforated 35mm films since years. If you don't believe this call some microfilm dealers and ask them for perforated 35mm Copex. They will tell you just that: it's not available as a new, fresh product. If you don't believe that call Agfa, they will confirm this.

Whatever is in the market must be old stock that is being marketed aggressively. How long will supplies last? Nobody knows.

By the way, if you lust for some unperforated Copex...

Here is a thread with some information about using unperforated 35mm film:

(there was a url link here which no longer exists)

Fresh unperforated film is dirt cheap. So was perforated film when it was still available. Someone makes a killing by cutting old perforated stock, selling it with a humongous markup. You get 305 meter rolls (ca. 1,000 feet) for about 130 Euros, enough for 190 films, 36 frames, 0.69 Euros per film, have fun!

Of course, I did not try that :whistling:

You are well known for bashing products you have never used on different forums and spamming threads with Kodak marketing.
You are sitting in a glasshouse, you should not throw stones.

In fact I am better known for a few other things:

#1: For shouting "Jehova" if half the world wants to stone someone.

#2: For playing hardball with people who abuse a forum to advertise for free.

#3: For knowing the difference between criticism and personal attacks. Criticism is about facts or opinions, there is no need to get personal.

By the way, do you know the difference between criticism and libel? Libel is a personal attack and not a discussion on the topic.

In other words: don't get cute with me :cool: We better get back to topic, don't you agree?

---
PS: thx to Ronald and jnanian
 

georg16nik

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..We better get back to topic..

So, we could talk about the less-known-in-the-west Tasma aerial high resolution, wide latitude films?
They are still doing it in the city of Kazan, where Volga and Kazanka rivers meet (in Russia) :smile:
I hope that wouldn't qualify as "advertising". :D

cmo shot us in confusion, looks like, one should shuffle and pick some tarot cards (or else), in order to "see" if the posters on some of the threads here are experienced or less-experienced. :confused:

...I saw many negatives and prints from these films, and many friends of mine used them. They shared their experiences, and I can tell you that most of them are pretty experienced people that I can count on....

virtual experience
 
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Here's what Kodak says about TMax 100:

World’s finest-grained 100-speed B&W film
Extremely high sharpness
Very high resolving power
Optimal for enlargement


http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/products/films/bw/tMax100.jhtml?pq-path=13400

Note the little details about mentioning that they're talking about 100-speed b&w film. Where do they claim it's the sharpest? Oh yeah, that's the TMax 400, where they state:

World’s sharpest 400-speed B&W film
World’s finest-grained 400-speed B&W film
Additional speed for low light and fast action
Pushability up to EI 1600


http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/products/films/bw/tMax400.jhtml?pq-path=13319/1231/13399
 
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cmo

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So, we could talk about the less-known-in-the-west Tasma aerial high resolution, wide latitude films?
They are still doing it in the city of Kazan, where Volga and Kazanka rivers meet (in Russia) :smile:
I hope that wouldn't qualify as "advertising". :D

Depends. Do you have first-hands experience? I think that only a Russian should talk about Russian films... :D

cmo shot us in confusion, looks like, one should shuffle and pick some tarot cards (or else), in order to "see" if the posters on some of the threads here are experienced or less-experienced. :confused:

So, you are confused? Do you want to talk about it?

virtual experience

Prints and negs that I saw are less virtual than 72dpi JPEGs in forums.
 

Sammelwahn

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- The images look 'digital'.
Could you describe why? I remember a report, where the same was stated about fuji acros 100. Maybe because there is "no" grain? Means this, that a print from a LF-negative compared to a print in the same size from a 135/120-negative looks digital too? I have no experiences in digital photography and LF-"shooting", so excuse my question.
 

cmo

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I have to pass that question to the guys who said that.
 
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