Highest Contrast Paper Developer?
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Does anyone actually look for a high contrast paper developer?
The traditional commercial way to get variable contrast from a fixed grade paper was to run two baths.
A soft - like selectol soft 1:3 for the first developer bath, and the harder, like Dektol 1:1 for the second bath.
Dr. Beers was/is an 'obscure homebrew' that has the soft all metol developer at one end of the range, and the hard developer with mostly hydroquinine with just enough metol to make it superadditive, and a healthy does of carbonate to activate it.
Higher contrast developers usually have a more active alkali, which when it comes to paper softens the emulsion. So there are not many that are commercially made.
Real lithographic film developers use a variant of sodium hydroxide. When they are used with papers the activity is reduced by making it very dilute. Then it can be used when one uses it to print 'lith' on overexposed traditional photographic paper.
Hope this gives you food for thought
The traditional commercial way to get variable contrast from a fixed grade paper was to run two baths.
A soft - like selectol soft 1:3 for the first developer bath, and the harder, like Dektol 1:1 for the second bath.
Dr. Beers was/is an 'obscure homebrew' that has the soft all metol developer at one end of the range, and the hard developer with mostly hydroquinine with just enough metol to make it superadditive, and a healthy does of carbonate to activate it.
Higher contrast developers usually have a more active alkali, which when it comes to paper softens the emulsion. So there are not many that are commercially made.
Real lithographic film developers use a variant of sodium hydroxide. When they are used with papers the activity is reduced by making it very dilute. Then it can be used when one uses it to print 'lith' on overexposed traditional photographic paper.
Hope this gives you food for thought
There were good Contrast developers available at one time, and all companies sold them, you need a Carbonate based Graphics developer rather than the Hydroxide type Mike mentions, I've no idea what's still on the market in the US.
Ilford Contrast FF is no longer manufactured and many of the Kodak developers have gone as well, try the Photographers formulary they may be able to help'
There's formulae that will give you close to a Grade more contrast than Dektol, but nothing close readily available off the shelf that I can name off-hand.
Just a thought Ilford still make Phenisol that's a high contrast developer, you could try that.
Ian.
Ilford Contrast FF is no longer manufactured and many of the Kodak developers have gone as well, try the Photographers formulary they may be able to help'
There's formulae that will give you close to a Grade more contrast than Dektol, but nothing close readily available off the shelf that I can name off-hand.
Just a thought Ilford still make Phenisol that's a high contrast developer, you could try that.
Ian.
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Edwal "G" was marketed as a high-contrast developer. I have no idea if it is still marketed. Powerful stuff, you used it straight, poured it back in the bottle when you were finished with it.
Peter Gomena
Peter Gomena
Thanks. I've been using replenished LPD, and am maxing out my filtration for some difficult low contrast negs. Since I usually develop the film rather soft, I'm trying to get as much breathing space at the higher end of the contrast scale as I can. Is Dektol higher contrast than LPD? LPD is supposed to fixed contrast, variable tone, while Dektol changes contrast with dilution, right? So if I mix full strength Dektol, will that be much harder than the LPD?
"Thanks. I've been using replenished LPD, and am maxing out my filtration for some difficult low contrast negs."
The popularity of LPD is due its moderate contrast, not brutal like Dektol, nor too soft like 120/Selectol Soft. Just right.
Similar to the range of a blend of Dektol & Selectol, or Dr. Beers (obscure ? oh, well, I'm just old), LPD is very much like Ansco 130 without the HQ, except having a very long life, suitable for replenishment.
Bit if you need more contrast, you'll pick one or two paper grades using Dektol. You might, use LPD in a two bath. Look up Les Maclean's directions for two bath development. Place your highlights with LPD, then use Dektol to set your shadows. Pick up some Potassium Bromide, though, which you might need some added to the Dektol to keep the highlights for being darkened by the Dektol. Pretty straightforward stuff.
OR, the Dektol might do it all by itself.
.
The popularity of LPD is due its moderate contrast, not brutal like Dektol, nor too soft like 120/Selectol Soft. Just right.
Similar to the range of a blend of Dektol & Selectol, or Dr. Beers (obscure ? oh, well, I'm just old), LPD is very much like Ansco 130 without the HQ, except having a very long life, suitable for replenishment.
Bit if you need more contrast, you'll pick one or two paper grades using Dektol. You might, use LPD in a two bath. Look up Les Maclean's directions for two bath development. Place your highlights with LPD, then use Dektol to set your shadows. Pick up some Potassium Bromide, though, which you might need some added to the Dektol to keep the highlights for being darkened by the Dektol. Pretty straightforward stuff.
OR, the Dektol might do it all by itself.
.
Thanks. I was having contrast issues with some old negs (I have a separate thread about that), but by switching to Ilford MG paper (from Kentmere) today I was able to just barely nail my most difficult neg at grade 5 in LPD. I picked up some Dektol this morning anyway, since it's so cheap, but don't need it just yet. Brutal can be good sometimes!
Does Dektol have enough life to replenish? I use a slot processor, which is covered with floating dowel rods when not in use, so replenishment is really convenient.
Not really powdered Dektol is an MQ developer and doesn't keep as long, but PQ developers can be replenished, and Liquid Dektol is a PQ version.
LPD is a PQ developer, I think Don meant it was Metol or more likely Glycin free not HQ - Hydroquinone free.
Ian
LPD is a PQ developer, I think Don meant it was Metol or more likely Glycin free not HQ - Hydroquinone free.
Ian
"Brutal can be good sometimes!"
Yes, I agree, even with normal negatives, very hard contrast can bring out a whole new image. I've done some totally off the scale and I really love them. A slight underexposure on the paper then overdeveloped in hard full-strength developer might make it for you. You can also develop long, then bleach back the highlights for an increase in contrast. The bleach in Kodak's sepia kit is easy to obtain.
If not, consider making internegs (enlarger or contact), or reshoot the neg (slide projector or copier) and you can bring flat negs to normal or high contrast, then filter to taste.
Yes, I agree, even with normal negatives, very hard contrast can bring out a whole new image. I've done some totally off the scale and I really love them. A slight underexposure on the paper then overdeveloped in hard full-strength developer might make it for you. You can also develop long, then bleach back the highlights for an increase in contrast. The bleach in Kodak's sepia kit is easy to obtain.
If not, consider making internegs (enlarger or contact), or reshoot the neg (slide projector or copier) and you can bring flat negs to normal or high contrast, then filter to taste.
I know you don't like warm tone but I've found that Zonal Pro HQ warm tone developer is much contrastier than Dektol 1+1 when comparing prints from the same negs side by side. Using MGIV in warm tone developer shouldn't give you warm tones but I would think it would still increase contrast. B&H has it.
Maybe also try bleaching highlights then selenium toning.
Maybe also try bleaching highlights then selenium toning.
Edwal's TST may deliver the contrast. It is a contrast control
developer which comes with a part B. Part B is added when
a lower contrast is needed. Dan
developer which comes with a part B. Part B is added when
a lower contrast is needed. Dan
Thanks! I'll look into it. I want to print some stuff on Slavich, and will need that an extra boost. I wonder if it will cause any warming on the Unibrom?
Unibrom is supposed to be cold but my results thus far are fairly neutral. I believe it's Slavich Bromportrait that's the warm one.
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