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SnailofDOOM

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Hello! I recently got an Ansco Agfa Shur-Shot special and I'm trying to get into film for the first time!
I have a lot of experience with DSLR and instant photography (I almost exclusively shoot black and white) but I've always wanted to delve into film but I'm not sure where to start, everything I've read kind of assumes you know a lot of things that I don't know.
Pretty much all I know is how to use this specific camera in theory, what film it can take and what I could potentially achieve. But other than that, I feel like a fish out of water.
Would I be able to get some tips from ya'll? Things that I MUST have to be able to create stunning photographs with this lil' box.

Thank youse in advance. :smile:
 

Donald Qualls

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For a box camera like that one, it's pretty easy -- load film, wind to 1 (which can be tricky with Ilford, but easy enough with Fomapan), compose, click. Wind to 2, compose click. Repeat until 8. Wind to end, unload, and send off or develop the film.

A box camera is a type that was created in the 1890s to make photography simple enough for your grandmother (who, then, was born before the Civil War). "You push the button, we do the rest." was Kodak's motto for decades, and the Shur-Shot family were direct copies or minor reivsions of the Kodak No. 1 of 1902. There's no focusing (fixed focus at about 10-12 feet, with depth of field to allow acceptable sharpness -- for contact prints -- from 4-5 feet to the horizon). No exposure adjustment (clear, sun over your shoulder, between 10 AM and 2 PM on ISO 100 film -- or load 400 and shoot in the overexposure latitude). Two little waist level bright finders, one for verticals and the other for horizontal.

Overall, not much to know, other than how to compose.

FWIW, the first camera I called my own (around 1970) was a Brownie Hawkeye Flash, comparable to that Shur-Shot (6x6 instead of 6x9, and Bakelite instead of cardboard, but same general idea). I now own two of those, and love them. I've also got a Shur-Shot Jr. (like yours but without the B shutter, two apertures, or flip-in close-up lens some box cameras had).
 
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SnailofDOOM

SnailofDOOM

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For a box camera like that one, it's pretty easy -- load film, wind to 1 (which can be tricky with Ilford, but easy enough with Fomapan), compose, click. Wind to 2, compose click. Repeat until 8. Wind to end, unload, and send off or develop the film.

A box camera is a type that was created in the 1890s to make photography simple enough for your grandmother (who, then, was born before the Civil War). "You push the button, we do the rest." was Kodak's motto for decades, and the Shur-Shot family were direct copies or minor reivsions of the Kodak No. 1 of 1902. There's no focusing (fixed focus at about 10-12 feet, with depth of field to allow acceptable sharpness -- for contact prints -- from 4-5 feet to the horizon). No exposure adjustment (clear, sun over your shoulder, between 10 AM and 2 PM on ISO 100 film -- or load 400 and shoot in the overexposure latitude). Two little waist level bright finders, one for verticals and the other for horizontal.

Overall, not much to know, other than how to compose.

FWIW, the first camera I called my own (around 1970) was a Brownie Hawkeye Flash, comparable to that Shur-Shot (6x6 instead of 6x9, and Bakelite instead of cardboard, but same general idea). I now own two of those, and love them. I've also got a Shur-Shot Jr. (like yours but without the B shutter, two apertures, or flip-in close-up lens some box cameras had).


Hey thank you for the response! Starting out, do you recommend setting up a dark room straight away to develop one's own film, or send it off?
Eventually I do want to set up a dark room but I'm not sure how much space I'll need or even what I need, I live in a fairly small apartment, I could potentially convert my bathroom into a darkroom, also would I have to worry about fumes?
 

jay moussy

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Have fun with it. No batteries!
I think you will soon consider developing your own film, which you can do with relatively small dollars and advice from the forum!
As a beginner myself, I am amazed how tolerant B&W developing is, and how appealing medium format (6x6) can be.
 

Donald Qualls

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You can buy everything you need to process your own B&W negatives for about what it would cost to send off 3-4 rolls of film, and there is no feeling like opening the tank and pulling out your film to hang for drying, and seeing those images. Like magic (the only bigger magic is watching a print come up in the tray under safelight). You already have a DSLR, it seems, or mirrorless, so a copy stand and backlight source will give you what you need to digitize negatives, or you can buy a used scanner quite adequate for the job for a couple hundred dollars, with a little patience (I've got $200 into my Epson Perfection 4870 plus a set of film carriers for a 4900 that I've modified to fit).

Enlarging is a bit more of an undertaking, but I processed my own negatives, on my own, at age 10 (and there was no Internet in 1970). Back then, I got everything I needed at a yard sale.
 

Tel

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An important point: you don't need a darkroom to develop your film. Get a dark bag (changing bag) and a Paterson tank and you've got your darkroom. You only need the changing bag to transfer the film to the tank; the rest happens in the light with the lid on. The Paterson tank is easy to load and it has an adjustable reel that will accommodate any film size (even 127). You'll need a good general-purpose developer like Rodinal or one of many other options, a stop bath (though this is technically optional) and fixer. Depending on things like the content of your local tap water, you may want a wetting agent like photo-flo or distilled water for the final rinse. You'll want some clips to hang the film and a measuring vessel or two for, well, measuring.

My B&W arsenal:
A changing tent (because I sometimes shoot 8x10 and that takes space*), Paterson tank, bottle of HC-110 developer, large (1 liter) graduated pitcher, small graduated beaker for measuring the developer syrup, a thermometer, a bunch of clips, a gallon bottle of distilled water (95 cents at my grocery store) and a squeegee. I don't use a stop bath and I find distilled water as a finishing rinse gives me clean negatives.

*I use a Unicolor drum for my 8x10s--they don't fit in the tank!

And as Donald says, there's nothing more satisfying than pulling a freshly souped roll out of the tank and holding it up to the light.
 

Kino

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Used to be, companies sold simple kits for starting home darkrooms like this one for 120 film: Ansco Developing Kit.

It basically consisted of a few small trays, a contact printer, thermometer, a film developing reel, film drying clips, tongs for the trays and a few other assorted things to do the basics for making contact prints from your processed negatives.
It was a quick, inexpensive way to get started making direct contact prints (same size as the negative), but now these kits are being sold more as collectors items than for practical purposes.

It's too easy to be intimidated by the process of establishing a full-blown darkroom when you can make contact prints with a few simple things. Yes, it takes a while to gather, organize and use these things, but nothing like building a complete darkroom.

Once you make a few of these inexpensive prints, then you can decide if an enlarger and all accompanying accessories are worth the effort to your personal way of working. Many an amateur make hundreds of prints without ever owning an enlarger and a full blown dedicated darkroom. In fact, most just wanted small prints to place in a photo album and the contact print fit that bill exactly.

You can recreate the basics of this kit very easily;
A film developing tank - (probably your most expensive purchase unless you find one used)
A set of 4 trays big enough for your paper - Just about any plastic tray that will hold about an inch and a half of chemistry and that is chemically resistant.
A length of clothesline and some clothes pins for film drying
A small safelight
A reliable thermometer - lots of choices, but make sure it has the proper range
A pane of glass from a print frame, slightly larger than the negative and de-burred with a whetstone on the edges to avoid cutting yourself (clean very carefully before each use).
A set of bottles for chemicals - some use old soda bottles, but brown plastic photo bottles are cheap. (don't use old oil containers, they can never be cleaned enough to be useful)
A low voltage, 15 to 30 watt overhead light bulb that shines directly on a flat surface (for printing)
Access to a sink you can use to process the film and wash your prints; doesn't have to be in the darkroom itself, but if you use the bathroom with the windows and door blacked-out, you're set.
Chemicals: Developers for film and paper (one each), stop bath, fixer and photoflo (a very mild detergent that helps prevent water spotting on your drying negatives).
Cheap Nitrile gloves to avoid exposure to chemicals

Here's a website that describes in detail how one photographer uses Large Format negatives to make contact prints: https://www.timlaytonfineart.com/blog/2015/4/how-to-make-black-and-white-darkroom-contact-prints

Same principal, only you'd be working with smaller negatives.

It's a process and it's involved, but it can be quite satisfying if you are so inclined to take it on.
 

Andrew O'Neill

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Getting into B/W is easy. Pick up a Patterson developing tank with reel (they adjust so that you can do 120 film, which your camera takes), a film changing bag, film developer (there are too many to list), stop bath (just use dilute vinegar), and a fixer (like Ilford Rapid Fix). A mixing container, and a couple of storage bottles (I use PET bottles, and squeeze the air out). To store the negatives, you'll need plastic sleeves. Easily ordered online. I have a Brownie Target, which is very similar (it takes 620, so I have to respool 120 film onto a 620 reel). Recently I've been using Acros film, but I also run HP5 through it. Small prints looks really nice, but up to 8x10, not so... for me, anyways.
 

BradS

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Wow....lots of really good advice here already. So, I'll only add....

Welcome! (to the amazing community formerly known as APUG)
 

removed account4

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snip snip snip

Wow....lots of really good advice here already.....


hi there SnailofDOOM
I've got the same camera, its a charming box :smile: >>. here is the manual for it if you haven't gotten it.....
https://www.cameramanuals.org/agfa_ansco/agfa_d6_sure-shot.pdf
be aware the way you load the camera ( if you haven't already ) is kind of tricky ..
you have to pull the wind knob out gently to unlock the film cage that pops out entirely.
your camera has a yellow filter and a few f-stops ( you probably know all this already )...
also be aware that if you use this camera a lot the cardboard IS the outside of the camera can sometimes be weak
and the pronged-do-dad that the film wind / cage attachment mechanism uses to attach to the camera might need a little reinforcement ( I use duct tape on mine :smile: )
your camera ( if it is the same model as mine ) is a convertible, meaning you have 2 different aspect ratios depending on how you flip the wings inside the camera.
you'll have fun with your camera I think, and be able to make great photographs with it. flat light is your friend with a box camera, and you might want to use a film developer that is not contrast-aggressive ..instead use Xtol or caffenol or something similar. box cameras love dense negatives and contact printing. ( at least mine do )...

have fun !
Welcome! (to the amazing community formerly known as APUG)

+1
John
 
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Donald Qualls

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I am not sure about stunning photographs though!

On your very first roll of film, ever? Every image will be stunning! And that goes double if you develop the film yourself!! Get a few rolls under your belt, and you'll have to work at it, but the first one is just magic.
 
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I'd send out the film out to a lab that will develop and print, just to see if you like getting involved. Some labs scan film digitally as well, so you can put them on the web or social media. Since you don't have a darkroom or a scanner, I don't see the point developing to just get negatives. Without a scanner for digital display or a darkroom to print pictures, there's not much to see in a negative. Once you get back your first set of prints, then you can decide which way to go. Keep in mind that an old box camera is not going to give you superb pictures, just snapshots.
 
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SnailofDOOM

SnailofDOOM

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:D
I love getting everyone's perspectives here. Tons of great advice and encouragement all around! Big appreciate.

I think I'm going to develop the film myself since it's less of an undertaking than what I anticipated, I'm very excited, I can't wait to buy some film and get some great shots!

Edit: Sending my film out to a company isn't a bad idea for the first roll, part of me is hesitant because I want to be as hands on as possible. Lol.
 

PFGS

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I think I'm going to develop the film myself since it's less of an undertaking than what I anticipated...

IMHO this is the right move. A small but significant reason I still shoot film is for the ritual of developing, usually in the evening after the kids have gone to bed. After a day's work staring at a computer, it's nice to do something with my hands and very relaxing once you've got the routine down.
 

Chan Tran

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On your very first roll of film, ever? Every image will be stunning! And that goes double if you develop the film yourself!! Get a few rolls under your belt, and you'll have to work at it, but the first one is just magic.

I shot my first roll of film over 50 years ago when I was 10. I didn't remember any stunning photographs. I didn't do my own developing until 12 years later but I remembered it was quite bad the first roll I developed myself.
 

Donald Qualls

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How stunning were they to ten-year-old you, though?

Sure, by my third roll or so I was wondering why my photos were so bad -- Polaroid Swinger prints where you couldn't tell the subject from the background, out of focus dog portraits (too close), and so forth. But the first was magic. And every one I pull out of the developing tank is still magic. Might have bad photos on it, but they're magic bad photos...
 

removed account4

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I don't think it has to do with the 10 year old in you or ( magic of photography yes ). but knowing the limitations and operation of the camera, ANY camera. I've put countless rolls of film in mine, and knowing the best way to expose the film, and process it and knowing what sort of negatives it is capable of makes it a pleasure to use. its like trying to use a 35mm sir to do architectural perspective work. you know what the camera ( and operator ) can do and plan accordingly.
 

BrianShaw

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Getting into B/W is easy. Pick up a Patterson developing tank with reel (they adjust so that you can do 120 film, which your camera takes), a film changing bag, film developer (there are too many to list), stop bath (just use dilute vinegar), and a fixer (like Ilford Rapid Fix). A mixing container, and a couple of storage bottles (I use PET bottles, and squeeze the air out). To store the negatives, you'll need plastic sleeves. Easily ordered online. I have a Brownie Target, which is very similar (it takes 620, so I have to respool 120 film onto a 620 reel). Recently I've been using Acros film, but I also run HP5 through it. Small prints looks really nice, but up to 8x10, not so... for me, anyways.
This is basically what I did to break my reliance on labs. Additional stuff bought: four 500ml beakers and a 100 mill graduated cylinder and a 50ml cylinder. All rather affordable on eBay.
 
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:D
I love getting everyone's perspectives here. Tons of great advice and encouragement all around! Big appreciate.

I think I'm going to develop the film myself since it's less of an undertaking than what I anticipated, I'm very excited, I can't wait to buy some film and get some great shots!

Edit: Sending my film out to a company isn't a bad idea for the first roll, part of me is hesitant because I want to be as hands on as possible. Lol.
One advantage is that it will test the camera out. If you get lousy negatives, you might not know if it was the camera or your new developing.
 

MattKing

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I'll second the advice above, and join in the welcome.
The only thing I would qualify is the suggestion to use a changing bag. If, by chance you have a room or a cupboard that you can both work in and darken completely, even if only at night, loading the film into the reels and then into the tank is a lot easier (for many) than using a changing bag.
 

Donald Qualls

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If, by chance you have a room or a cupboard that you can both work in and darken completely, even if only at night, loading the film into the reels and then into the tank is a lot easier (for many) than using a changing bag.

I'll second this. The only thing worse than using a changing bag is needing one and not having it with you.
 

Sirius Glass

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I started with a box camera.

Welcome to APUG Photrio
 

MattKing

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