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Hewes reels

Kevin Caulfield said:
Paterson tanks need the centre column to be light tight and the Hewes reels won't fit around that column.
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Unless one buys the ones that were made for Paterson tanks, that is.
 
All good - just wanted to remind people about that option, although perhaps it might not be applicable in this instance.
 
To each their own -- I particularily like SS tanks, SS lids/caps, and SS reels. I have tanks that hold two 120 reels. They take 30 oz. So nice not to have to deal with any plastic.
 
#38's the way I do it. Practice with the lights on, eyes open then lights on & eyes closed.
Add to your list of things not to do!
Eyes closed & FORGET to turn off the lights in the darkroom.

Saw this one online & almost fell off the chair.
 
Hewes Reels!
Some of the best, for sure, although Nikors & LPL are up there.
To be honest, I can't speak to stand developing but it might be a good move to switch to steel reels regardless. If you can get over the change in loading it's worth it, the reels can be loaded just as quickly, can take a roll of film while slightly wet (if you're developing multiple batches back to back) and are more resistant to contamination and staining.
 

I've never seen Hewes reels for Paterson tanks but I have seen Hewes reels sized to fit Jobo tanks and center columns. But without modifying your tank the Jobo rig will NOT fit the Paterson tank. And, BTW, if you think regular Hewes reels are spendy, price the Hewes reels that fit the 1500 series Jobo tanks!
 
I would test a couple of times with the Paterson kit before committing to another system of tanks and reels on the say so of any one Internet expert. On thing that I have found helps, in my own experience, when stand developing is to have a large volume of developer (more dilute than usual so I am not using more stock solution) and to have empty reels above and below the reel holding the film as spacers in the tank, if short on reels you could fashion spacers out of short bits of PVC pipe with the proper inside diameter. This seems to minimize bromide drag.
 
And now I found them on Freestyle in the USA. Sheesh.
 
Like divorces, Hewes reels are expensive because they are worth the money. Just spread the cost over all the rolls of film that will be developed without problems.
 
pdeeh said:

Posting from the hip: A lifetime of humiliation
5 Minutes with Google: Priceless
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Actually more than that since I sold camera equipment for many years and have also used Hewes reels on and off since the late 70's.
 
Haha
is there an emoji for banging your head on the table?
 
Fessing up, my first use of Hewes reels was a complete failure. Fortunately, I used some test strips so nothing was lost, but it's clear that now I know what happens when the film touches itself. Yes, I could have done without that knowledged! but now I'm warned by experience. Looks like this is going to take some reel practice.
 
I too endorse Hewes reels. The 35mm reels are particularly great - they do away with the flimsy, slippery spring clip altogether by holding the film with two simple sprocket-hole tabs. They are also much easier than the clikkety-clakkety plastic loading system, which I never liked, even when learning in high school. My OCD self also feels better about long-term chemical contamination by not using the softer plastic. You will use Hewes reels longer; they are higher grade steel than any other metal reel I've used. Last week, I finally bent one for the first time, after 15 years - and it was a 9 foot drop that only slightly bent the outermost ring of the thinner 35mm reel. It was my butterfingers, but maybe I shouldn't have such high shelves in earthquake country anyway.

-Jarin
 
Hewes reels are easier to load than other stainless reels, but they aren't the only kind available. Another thing that makes Hewes reels different (at least the 135 format reels) is the prongs that hold the film by its sprocket holes. These prongs make the Hewes reels a joy to use. Other stainless reels use the "mouse-trap" wire bail. I hate them. For 120, I use the stainless reels with the "C-clip" in the center for trouble-free loading. For stand development, I've never noticed any difference between stainless reels/tanks and Paterson System 4 reels/tanks. I've botched it using both and had many excellent results with both. I shoot quite a bit of 50-year-expired 127 film. Stand developing gives me great results, and the Paterson reels were the only ones that would take 127. Now I have some stainless 127 reels, but the Paterson tanks still get used for stand development without fear.
 
Jeff: Thanks for the update. I came at it for the Nikkor tanks, and added the Hewes reels. But I've got to get the roll-on to work, and I haven't yet. Will to have to work some other youtubes I guess. I like the two prongs... it's what to do from there that seems to be my problem. For now, I'm doing serious negs on the Paterson.
 
Hewes reels require some daylight practice before using them in the dark. True for 35mm and 120.
 
JWMster said:
I like the two prongs... it's what to do from there that seems to be my problem.
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Hold the reels without too much tension.
With one hand, rotate the reel to pull the film into the reel.
With the other hand gently cup and guide the film.
Load the film a short segment at a time - half a reel rotation each segment works okay.
After each segment, gently push/pull the film in and out a tiny amount - if it moves freely you can load the next segment. If it binds, pull the film out and retry the last one or two segments.
As the film loads correctly, the edges of the film make a subtle, very regular and very quiet scraping sound. Learn to recognize that sound, because that little bit of sound is the single most reliable clue that you are loading correctly.
From time to time, rub a finger over each side of the reel. If the film isn't loaded correctly, it may stick out a bit.
 
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