Helping figuring out hasselblad camera

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yaeldefaye

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Hello,

A friend of mine receive 2 Hasselblad camera:
a 500 C/M with a Carl Zeis 80mm f2.8
a 2000FCW with a Carl Zeis 110mm F2
there is also a few filters and what looks like extension tubes, there is an extra back too.

She would like me to sell them for her, but I have no idea what I am really selling. I can go to eBay and sell them there, but I think it could be interesting to learn about them from you guys. So before selling them, what do I need to look at?

Thank you,
Yael
 

StoneNYC

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Shine a light through the lens, look for dust, also look for spiderweb looking stuff (could be fungus) inside the lenses.

look in the lens, close and open the aperture and look for oil on the blades.

Feel the foam sealing if there is any and if it's sticky and peeling / flaking off.

Listen to the shutter as it clicks, they should both sound similar-ish

Other than that, run some film through them and check the accuracy of the shutter.

You'll need a meter to get the correct settings.

Good luck!


~Stone

The Noteworthy Ones - Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1 / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic

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StoneNYC

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Oh I'm also interested in buying the 500 with lens.


~Stone

The Noteworthy Ones - Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1 / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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yaeldefaye

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I haven't seen any fungus at all, but on the 500, I cannot take the lens off and the aperture blades seems to be stock. Also I wasn't able to take any pictures.
The 2000 seems fine otherwise, except I have nothing to measure the accuracy of the shutter.
 

heterolysis

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If you've never used a 500 C/M make sure you take out the darkslide before trying to take a picture! I spent about a day trying to troubleshoot that problem when I first got mine.... :whistling:
 

jordanstarr

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...you can do all the tests you want, but if you sold that camera to me and the shutter speeds were off or the back wasn't giving even spaces, I'd be pissed. Let someone who is drooling over it borrow it for a while and it if works flawless with film being run through it and then developing it, there is your evidence. The only two certainties to the above issues I mentioned is actually using it. Don't be another one of those guys. I've bought cameras off them before that were promised to work fine, I get it and actually shoot with it and end up returning it or fighting with the person who sold it to me until something gets done. Not a fun way to spend your time.
 
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yaeldefaye

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What I can do is take some pictures and do some more test.
After that I can sell it, keep the money on my paypal account and refund the buyer except paypal fees and shipping after a certain period of time.
 
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yaeldefaye

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Ok I got the 500 to take "pictures" without any film.
Though the 80mm lens has some rings that are stock, I manage to take the lens off with any issue but still not enable to move those rings.

Hopefully I'll be able to take pictures of what I have tomorrow.
 

John Koehrer

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If the lens is the older chrome lens the aperture and speed rings are locked together for EV values.
Two things I would try:
Try moving the aperture ring toward the lens mount and rotating either ring.
Second guess is a small piece of metal(?) at about the 10 o'clock position(viewed from rear of the lens)
Depress it and the pair of rings should move independently.

Be aware that BOTH the lens and body have to be cocked to remove or install a lens. If it's forced, it's not an inexpensive repair.
 

heterolysis

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Hold the camera as you would taking a shot. Look at the top of the lens. Are the two red lines below the aperture/shutter readings at the very top? If so, pull on the metal tab on the right side of the lens and turn the shutter speed dial. As John pointed out, the shutter/aperture rings are locked at a certain exposure value, some combinations of which prevent you from turning the rings. Try moving just the one ring, and after it's changed you'll probably be able to move both again.
 

mgb74

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The first thing to do is to stop.

Hasselbalds can be a bit counter intuitive - such as the linked shutter/aperture rings. And having both body and lens shutter aligned when mounting lenses. It's great that you want to help your friend sell her cameras, but please read the manuals for body and lenses first - after all, they are still her cameras. They should be available online.

Hasselblad lenses can have very different values depending on which series (C or CF, T* or not, black or chrome). Backs can have differing values depending on whether they're the "A" back or "C" back. A back with mismatched insert and shell will have slightly less resale value than if matching.

It's helpful to look at KEH's site to get a sense of the relationship between versions of the same item and price (as well as condition and price).
 
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yaeldefaye

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OK, thank you, I will try "playing" with the 80mm, for know I took it off the "list.

Here is a picture of the whole package:

Hasselblad All.jpg

A
500 C/M + back

B
2000FCW + Carl Zeiss Planar 110mm 2.8+ back

C
"Extension tube" 56, 32, 16, 8

D
Focusing Screens

E
Extra Back (serial RP 3228649) with a label saying AB, not sure if that means anything.

F
X606 Color 4x5 View Fitler

G
Flash mount
Level mount
Metal plate
and other things I cannot name

H
Hasselblad filters (left to right):
HZ 70mm
UV-SKY (1A) 60mm
70 to 77mm adapter
UV-SKY (1A) 60mm


I can take close up picture of the lens and camera upon your needs.
 
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