Helpful But Not Necessary...Enlarger Foot Pedal

[ic-racer]

Since my enlargers are sitting on a wood base and the columns are not supported at the top (like maybe the should), there can be some vibration when touching the counter top, so I like to use a foot pedal to activate the timer.

I never attached the support brackets at the top of the column because I like to move the enlargers around as needed.

Anyway, I just got a second foot pedal assembly, so each enlarger workstation has its own pedal.

These are hard to find because the prongs are different than the commonly available Omega pedals. The FOCUS and EXPOSE pedals are also reversed from the more commonly available one.

 

[Rick A]

In the time before I had foot pedals I kept my timers away from the enlarger, either on the wall or mounted on a shelf beside them so I didn't disturb my enlarger. I still wait a few seconds after setting up a print before I expose to let any vibrations die down.

 

[ic-racer]

Nice setup!

 

[ic-racer]

I was always curious why Omega made the baseboards on the top-of-the line enlargers like the Pro-Lab and D5500 so small. I think the D5500 baseboard is a little bigger, but as you can see my 16x20 easel still overlaps quite a few inches on both sides. These Omega XL enlargers will project to 20x24 on the baseboard.

 

[MattKing]

I was always curious why Omega made the baseboards on the top-of-the line enlargers like the Pro-Lab and D5500 so small.

I think it varied. My older version of the D6 had a massive baseboard - 36 inches long, 20 inches (IIRC) wide and 2.5 inches thick.

 

[Donald Qualls]

Well, and I thought I was just saving the limited space near my enlarger (it sits on a kitchen cart with a top barely as big as the D2 baseboard) when I mounted my timer on the wall. Hadn't even thought about vibration in the enlarger and cart. I'd still like to get a foot pedal; it'd be a lot easier to turn the lamp on and off for burning if I don't need to free a hand (and turn my head to see the timer) to operate the switches.

 

[ic-racer]

My Philips does not have a foot pedal option. Using the grain magnifier and tapping on the table, I could clearly see that one vibrated more than the Omegas, so I did construct a brace for the top of the column. That worked wonders.

 

[Doremus Scudder]

I was always curious why Omega made the baseboards on the top-of-the line enlargers like the Pro-Lab and D5500 so small. I think the D5500 baseboard is a little bigger, but as you can see my 16x20 easel still overlaps quite a few inches on both sides. These Omega XL enlargers will project to 20x24 on the baseboard.

Most Omega enlargers I've worked with were mounted straight to the countertop, often with a drop-bed recess for making larger prints. I think Omega kind of expected the pros to ditch the small baseboards and come up with other mounting solutions.

I'm a footswitch addict as well. I use simple GraLab digital timers (450s I think) with just a simple on/off footswitch for exposing. I have the timers wall-mounted so I can hit the "focus" controls by hand. Timers are set to 99 seconds and I use the metronome function to time prints. "Off" is either with a card under the lens or, for longer exposures, with the footswitch. The footswitch is really handy for burning when both hands are needed; couldn't live without it.

Best,

Doremus

 

[ic-racer]

I think it varied. My older version of the D6 had a massive baseboard - 36 inches long, 20 inches (IIRC) wide and 2.5 inches thick.

Yes, the thickness really helps. One of my Omegas came with a home made baseboard and it was horrible. I did find a new, correct baseboard on ebay about ten years ago, and there was a real improvement in stability.
I found big prints can still be an issue. Omega widened D5500 baseboard from 20" to 22" but my 16x20 easel is 27" across and my 20x24 easel is 30" across.

By comparison the Devere 4x5 enlarger (504) came standard with a 24" baseboard and had an optional massive 42" baseboard!
And, of course the Beseler is right up there with its 25" baseboard as Rick A showed above.

 

[MattKing]

I work with one hand that has limited dexterity. A foot switch is very valuable. I would love to have a foot switch that permitted separate control of exposure and focusing.

 

[ic-racer]

I work with one hand that has limited dexterity. A foot switch is very valuable. I would love to have a foot switch that permitted separate control of exposure and focusing.

What timer do you use on the Omega? Both Chromegatrol I and Chromegatrol II have a dual foot pedal like the D5500 (but with a different plug).

 

[ic-racer]

I forgot about this electronic gem from Omega. Probably short lived due to electrical complexity.
Temperature, pH, Exposure, Enlarger Timer and multi step process timer all in one. Also shared the D5500 dual foot pedal.

 

[MattKing]

What timer do you use on the Omega? Both Chromegatrol I and Chromegatrol II have a dual foot pedal like the D5500 (but with a different plug).

I had an Ilford Multigrade 400 head with associated controller on that enlarger, which I sadly had to sell due to our downsizing.
It is currently being used with great effect by a friend, although he swapped the light source with the back-up, 1st generation Multigrade 500 head and controller I had.
Right now I'm using an LPL 7700 VCCE with a Gralab 450 timer. I have the single footswitch, but really miss having a safelight outlet as well.

 

[ic-racer]

Although Rick A's setup does not show the foot pedal, those nice Gralab 525 timers he shows do have an optional foot pedal.

 

[ic-racer]

I had an Ilford Multigrade 400 head with associated controller on that enlarger, which I sadly had to sell due to our downsizing.
It is currently being used with great effect by a friend, although he swapped the light source with the back-up, 1st generation Multigrade 500 head and controller I had.
Right now I'm using an LPL 7700 VCCE with a Gralab 450 timer. I have the single footswitch, but really miss having a safelight outlet as well.

That is too bad those nice Graylab digital timers only have a single pedal.

One thing I wish the Omega had is a beep with the FOCUS pedal for burning. It does beep during TIME. Even better would be a BURN function that would count up and beep for ad-lib burning.

 

[Rick A]

Although Rick A's setup does not use the foot pedal, those nice Gralab 525 timers he shows do have an optional foot pedal.

Both of my enlargers utilize foot switches, they are on the floor. My Omega is coupled to a 525 for split grade printing and the Beseler to a 505. I sold my extra 525 some years back to a member here. I also have a Beseler 23 C with a mechanical Time-O-Lite that sits around the corner unused.

 

[albada]

What would y'all think of a controller that had a RED button that turned on the red LEDs (for a LED-head). You could position your burn/dodge mask under that red light, and then press the foot switch to start exposing. Would that be useful?

I built a LED head for my Beseler MCX, and an Arduino-based controller for it. LED heads make more features possible, such as a RED button. I'm trying to decide what features would be helpful. How about three pedals: FOCUS, RED, and START? I'm half joking, but I did put those three buttons on my controller.

Mark Overton

 

[MattKing]

What would y'all think of a controller that had a RED button that turned on the red LEDs (for a LED-head). You could position your burn/dodge mask under that red light, and then press the foot switch to start exposing. Would that be useful?

Yes.

 

[M Carter]

I've wired foot switches into every timer I've used, I'd just quit printing without them!

 

[ic-racer]

Both of my enlargers utilize foot switches, they are on the floor. My Omega is coupled to a 525 for split grade printing and the Beseler to a 505. I sold my extra 525 some years back to a member here. I also have a Beseler 23 C with a mechanical Time-O-Lite that sits around the corner unused.

Again, nice setup.
I should’ve indicated ‘show’ instead of ‘use.’

 

[Rick A]

Again, nice setup.
I should’ve indicated ‘show’ instead of ‘use.’

Thank you, and no problema with the oops.
Back in the 60's I had a 1940 something vintage Federal enlarger. Everything made that POS jiggle so I learned early on to isolate anything that could possibly make my images fuzzy. I would stand dead still and wait to the count of ten before I triggered the timer, play statue while it exposed my prints. I still find myself doing that at times.

 

[RalphLambrecht]

In the time before I had foot pedals I kept my timers away from the enlarger, either on the wall or mounted on a shelf beside them so I didn't disturb my enlarger. I still wait a few seconds after setting up a print before I expose to let any vibrations die down.
View attachment 300950

great idea!

 

[Sirius Glass]

I have the same Omega pedal which I use because it is easier than stretching my are to reach the hand controls. I do not have vibration problems.

 

[Hilo]

My timers are on the walls, the foot switches are on the table next to the baseboards. Three enlargers (Focomats Ic and IIc, and a Valoy II) are on three large cabinets for prints which are totally stable. The fourth enlarger (Durst L1000) is wall mounted and shares the timer and foot switch with the IIc, via a switchbox.

Perhaps, if I had the large foot pedals I would try them on the floor. I have the smaller foot switches and I tried them on the floor. But find it much nicer next to the baseboards. Always on the left. Automatisms.

In other words my foot switches are hand switches

 

[gordrob]

Perhaps, if I had the large foot pedals I would try them on the floor. I have the smaller foot switches and I tried them on the floor. But find it much nicer next to the baseboards. Always on the left. Automatisms. In other words my foot switches are hand switches

I have two Graylab timers, a 500 and 525, that use foot/hand switches on the cabinet next to the enlargers so there is no chance of vibrations. I also use foot switches to control 4' LED white light strips over the sinks on the wet side of the darkroom. The switches are air actuated foot switches and removes any chances of touching something electrical with wet hands.