Even in the USA film is expensive. Our dollar is very depressed. You might consider doing this:
I NEVER load 35mm film like we are supposed to load it with a wasteful leader. First, I cut off the leader. Then, I open my empty SLR and put a piece of tape, about 2 inches (4 cm?) onto the take up spool and slowly advance the film advance lever to wrap the tape around it. When fully 'advanced' there should be about one inch (2 cm) sticking out.
In the dark, I then place the film cassette into its chamber, push down the rewind crank to keep the cassette in place, and draw out enough film to reach just past the sproket holes. I anchor the film's lower sprocket hole onto the sprocket with my thumb to keep it from falling off. I then take the exposed piece of tape and carefully place its sticky side underneath the middle portion of the film, press firmly to make it stick, then make sure that the other sprocket hole is engaged with the film. Finally, I make sure that the film is secure and taut before I close the SLR's body. If done properly, (practice in room light with dummy film) the film will then advance properly. Your first exposure is ready to take since you cocked the shutter as you were putting on the tape. You have wasted about one frame of film. Of course, the removal of the leader negates the economy here if you intend to shool the whole roll you are best loading normally, as you have saved nothing. But, read on...
WillMcC: this solves two problems.
First, you are no longer held hostage to taking the full roll of film. To remove what you want to remove you, again in the dark, open the back of the SLR and cut off the film just past the last frame taken. (This will be just to the left of the aperture window if you have not advanced to the next frame or just before the right side of the aperture window if you have already advanced to the next frame.) In sum, you want to waste as little film as possible. You are free with this method to take, maybe, five frames and you will have used only about seven frames of film stock in order to do this.
Second: you now have the ability to buy expired film and be able to use it without wondering whether or not it is OK and how many stops extra exposure you need. You make a simple 'clip test' by taping about one inch or unexposed film onto the film aperture and shooting a predicable, repeatable scene for which you already know the correct light value. (I use my bookcase because it has both hightlights (white plastic items in front) and shadows (empty space where the overhead light does not reach well) to make my very accurate determination as to how the rest of the roll will be both exposed and processed.
My way takes a bit of frustration to anchor the film securely but the two advantages just elicited are worth the effort. Some time ago I waxed about the high cost of film and, as could be predicted with so many having good jobs and income, was met with general dismay ("film is NOT expensive", "you are complaining too much", "there are worse things out there", etc.). To that I say: sorry, film is very expensive in the USA. Film is utterly ridiculous in Europe (with VAT). My way allows full value to be achieved. You get to use one 36 exposure roll as, almost, a bulk roll and you get to feel confident with buying expired film because you get to test first. For many this thread will come off as rather trivial and too parsimonious. But for many out there it could possibly be a valuable cost saving device. - David Lyga
35mm photography here is a VERY expensive hobby! So any waste is a costly one! Thank you again,
