So I recently got a Lomography Fisheye 2 35mm Film Camera, took 26 pictures with it, took the film to local shop to get it developed (boots) and for some reason I got 11 pictures back, all apart from 2 where basically pitch black, and the 2 that werent where taken outside and quite bad quality, also they are not framed right (instead of the fisheye being in the centre, half of it is cut off the photo) so half the picture is missing, and I can see another half of the following picture pretruding onto the photo, why is this? Did I load the film wrong or maybe it was just some dodgy film? I am very unsatisfied and would like to know where I should get the film developed to get them to come out properly?
Help!
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Well... that's what you get for buying fashion products. Apparently black is the new black.
When entire frames are left unexposed, it's not the film or development that is to blame. I would see if that camera can be returned or replaced.
When entire frames are left unexposed, it's not the film or development that is to blame. I would see if that camera can be returned or replaced.
I guess that is what lomo is all about!
They are built to err, just work, sometimes not quite enough! I rekon that a replacement is in order. Do the negatives have the frames numbers etc. on them? If the film is totally clear, then it may be a processing issue, but I suspect that the shutter is only partially opening....or not at all.
I have never used a Lomo, but what shutter speed did you use? I don't believe this camera has a light meter, so how did you determine proper exposure?
I google'd the camera you mentioned, it doesn't look like it has a light meter, so if your film is black then you let too much light in.
If you keep the shutter open for a few seconds outside, it will be surely black.
What type of film did you shoot (b/w or color)?
What do the edges if the film look like, dark or clear'ish?
I google'd the camera you mentioned, it doesn't look like it has a light meter, so if your film is black then you let too much light in.
If you keep the shutter open for a few seconds outside, it will be surely black.
What type of film did you shoot (b/w or color)?
What do the edges if the film look like, dark or clear'ish?
I still can not figure out how and why persons spend money on a camera built with no quality control, a poor lens and even the advance mechanism is s design suspect. At least go buy a bakelite 120 from pre-WWII through the early '50s. Cheap and at least more relable as well as having repetitive halfway decent results. Bit, then again I'm a soft touch for old British cars built with Lucas wiring and parts.
It sounds like it's not advancing the film properly, which could be you loading it wrong or could just be something wrong with the camera. Also, with a shutter speed of 1/100 and an aperture of f8 (according to Amazon, this is what it shoots at), you want bright light or fast film, like ISO 400. I think even with the built in flash, your subject would have to be close for it to expose properly. Also, if you decide to return it, maybe look into something else that was built for simplicity but has a little more reputation for consistent performance, like a Kodak Pony or the Bakelite 120 cameras as was previously suggested. Plus, these cameras look a lot cooler than the lomo cameras, in my opinion.
If the film is black, then it got too much light, if the prints are black, or too dark, then there was too little light. Looking at the film will tell the tale though. If the film is black, and no edge numbers are showing, then it got light struck, either in the camera because of light leaks, or somewhere in handling (loading or unloading or at the lab).
It sounds like it may have been cut wrong by the lab, inspecting the film will answer that too.
It sounds like it may have been cut wrong by the lab, inspecting the film will answer that too.
When you say that half the picture is missing, do you mean that the frame is cut off on the negative?
Otherwise, I am thinking that you may have loaded it wrong, or the camera wasn't advancing properly, or binding, or something. I'm not familiar with the Lomo cameras specifically, but the principle of advancing film across a plane is pretty standard for roll film. If the film was not properly loaded on the take-up side, then you could have all kinds of problems of double/over exposure, half-frames, unexposed bits, etc.
A word of caution... you would also want to be careful how you hold it as the winder is on top of the camera. If your finger is pressing on this bit while you wind it, it will not allow the film to advance easily and might give you problems as well. If this winder spins when you are advancing the film, it should be OK (although the first few frames might not spin as it is still pulling the slack out of the film spool/canister).
Good luck, and don't let a bad experience deter you from shooting more film
Mike
Otherwise, I am thinking that you may have loaded it wrong, or the camera wasn't advancing properly, or binding, or something. I'm not familiar with the Lomo cameras specifically, but the principle of advancing film across a plane is pretty standard for roll film. If the film was not properly loaded on the take-up side, then you could have all kinds of problems of double/over exposure, half-frames, unexposed bits, etc.
A word of caution... you would also want to be careful how you hold it as the winder is on top of the camera. If your finger is pressing on this bit while you wind it, it will not allow the film to advance easily and might give you problems as well. If this winder spins when you are advancing the film, it should be OK (although the first few frames might not spin as it is still pulling the slack out of the film spool/canister).
Good luck, and don't let a bad experience deter you from shooting more film
Mike
No and no.
It's the camera that is dodgy -- by design. Or rather, the device that is pretending to be a camera.
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- Dshambli
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ayup, I only read every third or fourth word.
It happens. Let's just hope he gets his problem figured out. There's nothing more frustrating than starting out with something new and getting back bad pictures.
I dont think its the camera, yes I know they are over priced and tempermental etc, I think it was a mixture of me being new to the film camera scene, buying the wrong type of iso film for the situation and going to a crappy place to get the developed.
I have gone into a photography shop in my town, told the guy in there my situation (about boots framing the pictures wrong with the fish eye) and he seems to know what he's talking about, hes going to develope them for me and I'll collect them in two days time, can only hope it comes out how I want it, I think it will.
I have gone into a photography shop in my town, told the guy in there my situation (about boots framing the pictures wrong with the fish eye) and he seems to know what he's talking about, hes going to develope them for me and I'll collect them in two days time, can only hope it comes out how I want it, I think it will.
Show this guy your negatives and prints. It would be interesting to hear what happened.
Lets hope you can get it worked out! Don't give up on film. A lot is just learning from mistakes (your own, camera, lab...the list goes on).
Yeah you have to look at the negatives..
*If there is some evidence of frames but the image is very weak, the shutter fired but the shots are underexposed.
*If the frame squares are well defined but look blacked out then it is grossly overexposed.
*If there are long strips if just nothing, then the shutter did not fire or you left the lens cap on (it happens!)
The prints with the partial circles are probably mis-printed and you should be able to ask them to re-print manually. I've had this happen with fisheyes before.. the auto-frame of the machine gets confused. Again, you can always check the negatives for frame spacing.
You did not mention what verision you have but I did a quick search and it appears that the lomo fisheye has a fixed aperture of F8. it doesnt say what the shutter is but I bet it is fixed at like 1/30th. This means that indoors you are probably under-exposing 5 or more stops for iso 100 film (4 stops iso 200, 3 stops iso 100).. anyway, you get the idea.
So unless the lomo actually has slower speeds, you are using a flash, or very high speed film (iso 800+) you can pretty much rule out indoor photography.
*If there is some evidence of frames but the image is very weak, the shutter fired but the shots are underexposed.
*If the frame squares are well defined but look blacked out then it is grossly overexposed.
*If there are long strips if just nothing, then the shutter did not fire or you left the lens cap on (it happens!)
The prints with the partial circles are probably mis-printed and you should be able to ask them to re-print manually. I've had this happen with fisheyes before.. the auto-frame of the machine gets confused. Again, you can always check the negatives for frame spacing.
You did not mention what verision you have but I did a quick search and it appears that the lomo fisheye has a fixed aperture of F8. it doesnt say what the shutter is but I bet it is fixed at like 1/30th. This means that indoors you are probably under-exposing 5 or more stops for iso 100 film (4 stops iso 200, 3 stops iso 100).. anyway, you get the idea.
So unless the lomo actually has slower speeds, you are using a flash, or very high speed film (iso 800+) you can pretty much rule out indoor photography.
To follow-up.. yeah the lomo cameras are very limited but that doesnt mean useless. If you have a handheld lightmeter and know the apecs of the camera, you can be much more accurate but using the proper film or flash or opening windows etc.
Second this! In the last 6 months since moving to medium format, B&W, and home processing, I have continually found ever more creative ways to ruin film.
You'll find some of the pictures on my blog tomorrow night feel free to look http://elammm.tumblr.com/
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