Your image of the news reporter is a great example. It is one of the more powerful images you presented, IMO. The shallow depth of field was very well used. It focused all of our attention to the most important part of the image in such a way that also added to the tension and the uncertainty we see in the subject's reaction to her surroundings.
A bean bag can be used to cradle camera on brick walls and uneven surfaces...bracing against telephone poles, etc. Have fun!
you know, i did not even think about B&W. I have a few great film photography stores local to me (one of the sponsors of this forum, bluemoon is local) ill try and see if i can find that locally before this weekend! 1/60 would be 100% doable and 2.8 would allow me the use of my 28mm f2.8 lens as well!Any chance your project would work in black and white? I have shot only 2 rolls, but so far I've been impressed with Ilford Delta 3200 exposed at EI 1600.
This photo was exposed at f11 for 1/4 second (I used a tripod). So, f8 at 1/8 > f5.6 at 1/15 > f4 at 1/30 > f2.8 at 1/60? Personally, I don't consider any of those to be hand-holdable except 1/60.
I think i was so wrapped up in trying to get the perfect image that i kinda didnt think about having some movement from people and vehicles. I dont think i have that shaky of hands but i wasnt really as focused on it at the time hahaI have no issue handholding at 1/4 second but as always every human is different. I've learned to hold my breath, slow down my heart beat and rest my elbows against my chest to help steady everything. I've successfully hand-held exposures of 2 to 4 seconds. 1/4 and 1/8 are pretty easy for me. I think most people who's hands do not shake could hand hold at 1/15
The obsession with fast shutter speeds is a relatively recent thing brought on my mega-ISO offered by digital cameras. Back in the day, we didn't have that option. Also worth remembering that a little movement of people and vehicles is not always a bad thing.
Night photos at 1/4`s __ f/4,5 __ 30mm ASA3200
color cast is a working art`d`flu.
the cats where a subject that will not sit sltill...
I am giving a second go at low light street photography where the area is illuminated by a few street lights and some flood lights. No other light sources available and no flash.
Last week I tried shooting Reflx Labs 800T at box speed and got somewhat decent results but had to shoot my lenses wide open, and at slower shutter speeds… which resulted in a lot of missed focus and shaky images.
The 35mm lens I actually want to use goes down to f2 and unless the conditions were perfect, the light didn’t allow for wide shots.
I have an 85/1.2 that I had to switch over to, but even then I had to shoot at 1.2 or 1.4 which didn’t give me the dof I was looking for. And I had to back up pretty far to get any usable shots
This weekend I am hoping to try one of these 3 options:
Portra 800 pushed to 1600
Portra 400 pushed to 1600
Portra 400 pushed to 3200
Does anyone have any experience with these? I’ve never pushed film before and could use some tips or guidance.
My thought process with pushing the film is I can get back a stop or two of aperture or ss to either allow the use of my 35mm lens or get better dof and more of the scene in focus and not blow focus so much. The downside is I think the shadows will be super grainy and won’t have much information in them?
Thanks in advance. I’ll be shooting at a protest at night time so I want as much info is as I can get
For tripod-less photography lit by street lamps I use Portra 800, the Canon EOS Elan 7E and image stabilized lenses such as the Canon EF 28mm f/2.8 IS, or the Tamron 35/45/85mm f/1.8 VC.
The stabilization of these lenses allows me a lowest handholding speed of 1/4 second for the wider and 1/15 second for the longer lenses.
Tamron 45mm:
View attachment 409499
Canon 28mm f/2.8 IS:
View attachment 409500
Both very slow shutter speeds.
If I'm using a non-stabilized lens in these conditions, I look for trees, mailboxes, walls, etc. to brace myself on when taking the shot. And I plan on taking several tries of each shot with very careful breathing, paying careful attention to how much the viewfinder is shaking before I press the button.
I haven't found that pushing C-41 has much use. The shadows stay quite dark especially in streetlamp conditions.
While you can try ultrafast lenses such as f/1.2s, you may find that the depth of field is to shallow or the sharpness is too compromised for many subjects. And they still won't let you shoot in as low of light as the image stabilized lenses.
There's already been a lot of good advice, most of it in the sense that you have to cope with how little light there is and adjust to it; there is no film-processing magic bullet. It is a good idea to pick your focal lengths based on what you need to frame the subjects / how close you are, rather than the fastest f-stop. So for ex if you have a 28/2.8, 35/2, and 85/1.2, the 85mm isn't necessarily better because faster; it also magnifies camera shake and has little DOF so you need to nail focus (but if you nail focus results can be good).
Camera meters don't always do well with night scenes, so using auto mode may not work well. If you can meter an important part of the subject, like people's faces in light, you can set the exposure for that and let the shadows fall where they may. It's ok for a night scene to have large expanses of very-dark, which an averaging meter doesn't know. If you can't isolate the faces you can try getting your palm into a similar light level and meter that. Sometimes when taking night street scenes long ago, I think I would just set the camera on a fixed exposure I could just-about handhold, like 1/30 at f/2, and concentrate on focus rather than exposure.
If you can brace the camera against a wall or street sign it should let you get away with a slower shutter speed.
IMO, grainy shadows often come out better in B&W than color; in B&W they're just grainy, while in color they're sort of mottled / murky.
Welcome to Photrio!
I have used the box speed whenever I photograph. For night photography I have been using the Jiffy Calculator [https://kusner.com/downloads/MVLibrary/JiffyCalculator.pdf] since the first release in 1963.
geez im glad i asked, i was about to push 2 rolls of portra 800 before i posted this thread haha. You are totally right about the 1.2 aperture on both counts. going to try different bracing options this weekend!
man you nailed it on the 85mm. I blew focus on more than half of the shots with it because the dof and i believe the magnification was too much! My F1 has the focusing screen with center weighted average metering, but i do have a focus screen that does Selective area (partial metering)... it just doesnt have a split prism, its got the microprism only circle in the middle and ive found i sometimes miss focus with it compared to the split prism. Ill throw it in and try it though. I think i can more accurately meter with it, not as much as a spot meter, but it will at least take a much smaller meter reading at least.
Im thinking about giving TMAX P3200 or Ilford Delta 3200 B&W film a shot if i can get it locally to see how that turns out as well
I did not know that this existed thank you! Printing it out now to use
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?