Help with Flashbulbs and my Graflex please?

[EASmithV]

Ok, here's "The Situation"

I have a Pacemaker Speed, a 152mm Ektar in a Supermatic (X) Shutter, a Graflex Synchronizer flash with a household to bi-post adapter, and 100 P25 flashbulbs.

Now, the cleanest solution would just be to hook the flash up the the shutter and be done with it. However, the shutter is an X sync, so it won't work with flashbulbs?

That's fine. I can hook the flash unit up to my focal plane shutter, right?

Okay. Assuming I can get it properly firing, what am I going to need to do in terms of exposure?

For instance, using a 400 speed film, at 10 feet my exposure would be f_?

15 feet? 20 feet?

 

[EASmithV]

For the sake of experimentation, I popped one off at 10 feet ISO 400 and my flash meter read f8

 

[Steve Smith]

Probably easiest to use guide numbers for the flash bulbs if you can find that data.

Working it out backwards from your figures gives a guide number of forty feet (12 metres) at ISO 100.

Aperture = guide No. divided by distance so in this case, 40/10 = f4 for ISO 100 (or f5.6 for ISO 200 and f8 for ISO 400).


Steve.

 

[Jim Jones]

The X-sync contacts close as soon as the shutter reaches its maximum opening. The light from a flash bulb takes several milliseconds to reach full intensity. If the shutter speed is set slow enough, the shutter will be open long enough to capture all the light from the flash. For a Press 25 bulb, this is about 1/30 second.

 

[snederhiser]

Hello;
The shutter on the the Graflex is not made for flashbulbs, strobe only! The reason for X-sync. To make this work you need a solenoid that mounts to the lensboard with a mechanical link to fire the shutter. A two prong cord connects this to the 3 cell flash gun. When you press the red button on the flash, the bulb fires 30 milliseconds before the shutter opens. Flash bulbs use a guide number that is located on the packaging. Distance divided into the guide number gives the f/stop. Guide number for 25b flashbulbs, m sync, 1/50 shutter speed, 400asa film, is 360. At 12ft this would be f/32. Do some research on the web, Steven.

 

[BrianShaw]

1. As others have said, you can't use flash bulbs and X synch.
2. Can't use use 25/5 bulbs (M) with focal plane shutter - you'd need F bulbs.
3. If you have a solenoid tripping your shutter (and its properly adjusted) you can do what you want to do.

Do you have solenoid tripping your shutter?

 

[Steve Smith]

As others have said, you can't use flash bulbs and X synch.

I'm sure you can with a slow enough shutter speed.


Steve.

 

[BrianShaw]

I'm sure you can with a slow enough shutter speed.

Steve... maybe, but we are advising a guy who doesn't know how to make even the "normal situation" work so why quibble details of "what if" or more specialized techniques? BTW, even with the slowest FP shutter speed (meaning using any slit shutter opening greater than "O"), there probably would be differences across the frame.

 

[BrianShaw]

p.s. OP, if my comment above comes off as offensive please forgive me... I have no intention of offending you and every intention of helping you. Shooting Speeders with bulbs is awesome!

 

[Sirius Glass]

The lens shutter needs to be on M synch and use 5, 5B, 25, 25B bulbs.

The rear shutter is limited to 1/250 and 1/500 with 2A bulbs.

See http://www.jolommen.nl/, on the left select "the World of Graflex, the at the bottom look at "Flashing", "Flashguns", "Bulbs"

Steve

 

[snederhiser]

Hello All;
When I was much younger I shot pictures for the school paper, covering athletics. Most were indoors or at night. I used a 4 X 5 Graflex press outfit. To use flashbulbs the shutter was set to 1/200th to 1/400th using Tri-X pushed to 800asa. This made the guide number around 450-500. So depending on the distance, f/8-f/22 was used. A graflex sync flashgun with solenoid and press 25 flashbulbs rounded out the setup. At 1/30th with X-sync, the flashbulb is reaching maximun brightness as the shutter is closing, and any action picture will be blurry. I also used a Metz 502 strobe with the same camera. About the same setup except X-sync and 1/100th shutter setting. This was a better combo for stop action! Beat regards, Steven.

 

[paul ewins]

To be honest, the best solution is to get a 135mm Graflex Optar in the Graphex shutter (which is how you normally find them). It shouldn't cost much more than $150 and it will have the right connections (bi-post) for your flash. The Graphex shutter has both M and X sync.

 

[BrianShaw]

The Graphex shutter has both M and X sync.

Often, but not always: 135 Optar was also offered in an X-only Graphex.

While I'd agree that the Graphex with X & M is a good option, I achieved the same capability of being able to shooot either bulbs or strobe with a smaller investment... by adding a solenoid release to the X-only shutter (only about $15 for a solenoid and $20 for a bipost-PC cord).

Knowing if the OP has a solenoid actuating his shutter is the question that needs to be answered if he wants to shoot bulbs now and at no additional expense.

 

[Sirius Glass]

A good Graflex resource is www.graflex.org.

Steve

 

[djacobox372]

U can use x-sync as long as your shutter speed is 1/30th or slower (i do this all the time). You can shoot at 1/60th, but youll lose 1 or 2 stops of exposure.

The flash trigger on the focal plane shutter is likely unreliable due to age.

 

[Jben]

I also recommend a solenoid. Depending on your flashgun has the button, you could trip the shutter from the flashgun.

 

[EASmithV]

Perhaps, but my rangefinder is set up for 152mm