Help! what does this mean?

[bellalee]

Today I got 283 photos developed and scanned at a shop, when i look at the photos around 60% of them have this strange 'glare' mark in the same position at varying strengths:

I am using a minolta x-700 with a range of about 4 different lenses so i doubt it is the lenses fault,
How is this caused and what can I do to fix it?
Thanks

 

[David A. Goldfarb]

That looks like a light leak from the camera back. There are usually foam light seals that go all around the door that need to be replaced periodically. It's not a difficult repair, but as long as you'll be sending it in, it's a good time to have a general CLA (cleaning, lubrication, and adjustment) done on the camera.

 

[Ian Grant]

It means there's a very slight light leak, and caused by the shutter probably when the films being wound on and the shutter re-cocked, it's a service repair.

Extremely unlikely to be a seal, cloth shutters develop this fault where one curtain drags during re-cocking.

Ian

 

[alexmacphee]

If it's a light leak, you'd expect this band to run across the negative from end to end, including the sprocket holes. Whether it's at the same position may depend on where the leak is, for example near the take-up spool. If it's a shutter problem, you'd expect it to show only on the exposed area within the film gate, and possibly at different positions on the frame depending on (i) the shutter speed and (ii) direction of the shutter travel.

 

[bellalee]

I'm thinking its a light leak because the band runs right to the end of the film strip-including sprocket holes
I'm also getting the end part of the photo double exposed, like this:

How much does it usually cost to get that fixed?

 

[Ian Grant]

That seems to indicate the shutter curtains again,it may not be a big job but repairers usually have minimum charges. In the UK that tends to be £50 ($75) but the US is generally cheaper.

This is a known fault with Minolta cloth shutters.

Ian

 

[David A. Goldfarb]

It could be multiple problems. Light leaking into the sprocket holes visible on the negs, outside the live image area, would be from the light seals. If it's within the image area only, it's the shutter. Overlapping frames are the result of a film transport problem, if that's what your double-exposure issue is, but it could also be a sluggish shutter as Ian suggests, which could be addressed in a standard CLA.

 

[John Koehrer]

Does the camera have the window in the back that allows you to see the film cartidge?
Replace the seals, it's cheap enough, then test the camera.

 

[Ian Grant]

Does the camera have the window in the back that allows you to see the film cartidge?
Replace the seals, it's cheap enough, then test the camera.

It doesn't have one.

Ian

 

[BobD]

Getting another, working X700 body would be less costly than repairing
the one you have. They are plentiful and don't cost much. Minolta made
them up until only about 10 years ago so there are still plenty of mint ones
around.

 

[Wade D]

Looks like a light leak/shutter problem to me. There's also a capacitor that goes bad on the Minolta X series cameras which affects the shutter. When it fails completely the camera locks up. I have 2 X-700's that had this problem but fixed them myself by installing a new capacitor. Not hard to do. Micro Tools has the part.

 

[ulysses]

Looks like a light leak/shutter problem to me. There's also a capacitor that goes bad on the Minolta X series cameras which affects the shutter. When it fails completely the camera locks up. I have 2 X-700's that had this problem but fixed them myself by installing a new capacitor. Not hard to do. Micro Tools has the part.

Hmm. I have one is just this state and wouldn't mind attempting a repair. Can you share some details?

Thanks,
Ulysses

 

[Wade D]

Hmm. I have one is just this state and wouldn't mind attempting a repair. Can you share some details?

Thanks,
Ulysses

The part is a 4v 220micro farad capacitor. Remove the bottom plate of the camera and you'll see it. Using a low heat soldering iron carefully unsolder the 2 connections.
Some soldering irons get way too hot and may damage the other electronics. Once the old one is removed solder the new one in the same exact position so the base plate will fit down snug again. Don't try to force the base plate down before the capacitor is properly positioned as this may damage the other electronic parts.
I was leery of trying this myself but when I saw how easy it was and how cheap the part is it was a great way to save my 2 X-700's.

 

[ulysses]

The part is a 4v 220micro farad capacitor. Remove the bottom plate of the camera and you'll see it. Using a low heat soldering iron carefully unsolder the 2 connections.
Some soldering irons get way too hot and may damage the other electronics. Once the old one is removed solder the new one in the same exact position so the base plate will fit down snug again. Don't try to force the base plate down before the capacitor is properly positioned as this may damage the other electronic parts.
I was leery of trying this myself but when I saw how easy it was and how cheap the part is it was a great way to save my 2 X-700's.

Thanks, I'll give it a try. I've done a solder job or two in my time...

Ulysses

 

[ulysses]

Ugh. On removing the base I find cold solder joints on the cap (which shows signs of leakage) and corrosion on the traces of the PC board it's attached to. I'll probably replace the cap, but I expect that I'll have to hand solder some wires in to replace the corroded traces on the circuit board. I figure the odds of it actually working again are fifty-fifty, but worth the cost of the new cap.

Ulysses.

 

[Ric Trexell]

I see two problems.

I think those that see two problems, light leak and a hanging shutter are correct. I doubt that it is due to the capicator problem that X-700's are known for. The X-700 uses a little different method to release its shutter than most cameras. I don't know if Minolta invented this but when the shutter is cocked, a permanent magnet holds the curtain open. Many other cameras used a latch of some kind. When you trip the shutter, the capicators supply a jolt of juice to the permanent magnet and that releases the shutter because the magnet is no longer magnetized. (At least for a second.) I would take the lense off of the camera and hold a piece of cardboard over most of the openning where the film would go, and trip the shutter. (Leave a one millimeter slit.) You should see light. Then hold it over the other side and see if you see light. Then tape two pieces of cardboard together leaving a millimeter or so slit of light in the middle. Trip the shutter a few times and see if it shows light. You should see about the same amount of light in each slot. If you are not seeing any light, or twice the amount, then you have problems with a sticking shutter. I think a CLA is needed. I have two X-700's and one I bought new in 1985 and it has been in the shop once in 25 years. The other one I bought on ebay and had it repaired and cla'ed shortly after I bought it. They are a great camera. RJT.