I am not sure if is a standard replaceable part
It looks like the contacts are routet through in an 1:1 fashion, altough several of them are grouped together on wide traces to make a higher current carrying capacity.
So if the contact pitch (center to center distance between two contacts) is available in an standard FPC flat cable, it can be tried to use that instead.
Is it that one from the image at point 7?
Considering the worth of a 9000 i would go to great lengths to get it working again.
The first thing i would try, beside looking for the genuine spare part: Determine pitch (0.8mm or 0.5mm are usual values) and pin count and look for an off the shelf FPC cable like koraks said.
Maybe you can custom make a cable using ribbon wire.
Original spare or off the shelf FPC is the best way.
Maybe this:
i do want to point out the risks associated with those methods.
Thanks for the great idea. While I am not that familiar with FPC, if no other choice I would give it a shot.Not practicable. 1.27mm pitch is too corase and fine soldering is often an art.
Original spare or off the shelf FPC is the best way.
The original part is a flexible PCB with stiffeners in the contact area, so the (white) FPC cables are probably too thin in this area but they can be made thicker using several layers of tape, as it is
an one off prototype.
@yossi: if you determine pitch and cable length, i can help you finding something suitable at the distributor.
Thanks for the suggestion. Joined the group and posted my sad story and seeking help.join the Facebook Nikon coolscan group and post over there. There are several experts that repair them and can probably figure something out.
Thanks. Yes, no harm asking, even if it's a long shot.Probably a VERY VERY long shot but the following Coolscan repair service based in the U.K. might just have the part you are looking for
-wouldn't harm to ask :
website - https://lincolnscan.co.uk/Coolscan.html
e-mail - coolscanuk@gmail.com
i just dont think they should be encouraged unless they are the very last resort.
Not practicable. 1.27mm pitch is too corase and fine soldering is often an art.
Original spare or off the shelf FPC is the best way.
The original part is a flexible PCB with stiffeners in the contact area, so the (white) FPC cables are probably too thin in this area but they can be made thicker using several layers of tape, as it is
an one off prototype.
@yossi: if you determine pitch and cable length, i can help you finding something suitable at the distributor.
@Photomultiplier These are really helpful advice/info. If I really couldn't find a replacement FPC, I would have no choice but to fabricate one as you have suggested. Appreciate your help.Why risk a valuable machine with diy methods? The diy flex PCBs shown have no surface protection or anything.
Just get off the shelf FPC cables if there are suitable ones available and if it would be really really absolutely necessary, a one off Flex PCB just like the original one could be made professionally for <300usd.
I don't think it is very expedient to present the OP as many tinkerer-methods as possible.
One short circuit and the mainboard could be toasted.
It is just not worth the hassle. One has to consider: Do i want to tinker around or do i want do do a repair on a otherwise fine machine?
@Photomultiplier These are really helpful advice/info. If I really couldn't find a replacement FPC, I would have no choice but to fabricate one as you have suggested. Appreciate your help.
It looks like someone on the Nikon coolscan FB group gave you some good advice about a replacement cable - that’s awesome. Let us know how it works out !
I recently had my 9000 serviced by Gleb Shtengel (one of the experts in the group) in Virginia and he did a FANTASTIC job on it. Mine needed one of those tiny capacitors on the CCD board replaced (they degrade over time and cause noise and interference in the shadows). He removed the board and put it under a stereo microscope and I swear it must have taken him less than 30 seconds to replace. While he had it apart he cleaned the mirror and lubricated the rails and my scans are much better than before.
If you have problems with film flatness with the Nikon film holders - there’s a German guy on there - Stephan Scharf that makes these incredible 3D printed custom film holders that hold the film super flat. He made me a fluid mount holder to scan 617 and the scans are tack sharp from corner to corner. Best $300 I ever spent!
If you have problems with film flatness with the Nikon film holders - there’s a German guy on there - Stephan Scharf that makes these incredible 3D printed custom film holders that hold the film super flat. He made me a fluid mount holder to scan 617 and the scans are tack sharp from corner to corner. Best $300 I ever spent!
Mine needed one of those tiny capacitors on the CCD board replaced (they degrade over time and cause noise and interference in the shadows). He removed the board and put it under a stereo microscope and I swear it must have taken him less than 30 seconds to replace
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