Help Pulling Fomapan 400 to asa100???

[pentaxuser]

I have been doing a bit of research into Fomapan 400, specifically what the evidence is that in most developers such as Xtol it reaches the box speed of 400. I came across this thread and refer anyone who can help to posts 23 and 24 with the links. The lower link shows a test of 5 films in Fotospeed FD10 developer in DigitalTruth. There are 5 identical scenes covering 5 frames for each film but it looks to me that each frame of the 5 films has been shot at different speeds, yet the test says all shots were exposed at 400?.

This confused OMU and has confused me.

I think that each frame of each film has been exposed at probably 100, 200, 400, 800 and 1600. This means that the 400 speed shot is the middle frame of the 5 as was concluded by OMU. What is your interpretation?

Despite RobertV saying that they were all exposed at 400 he goes on to say that the print used for comparison is already one stop under which backs up his contention that the real speed of Foma 400 except in the likes of Microphen is about 200- 250. This comment suggests that he really means that each frame was shot at a different speed. Prints were made of the frames shot at 400 on each film and it is that print that is used for comparison

I can only conclude that when it says that all films were exposed at 400 he and the article's author really means that all films were developed for the recommended 400 speed time for FD10 and not that all frames were exposed for the same time. Thus there is a nomenclature confusion.

OMU tried to clear up the confusion but never got a reply from RobertV unfortunately. Comments on the validity of my conclusion are welcome

In short it looks and this appears to be confirmed by the Foma 400 spec sheets that of the developers mentioned only Microphen gets to about 320. Most of the others including Xtol reach about 250.

Thanks

pentaxuser

 

[Peter Schrager]

Par for foma films...

 

[Gerald C Koch]

Overexposing a film by two stops is still within the latitude of the film. Just develop normally and ignore comments to pull it. Pulling is not necessary and will cause problems when you go to print. Just print through the extra density.

 

[darkroommike]

Over exposed by only two stops? Process normally. You don't pull film to adjust exposure, you pull film to adjust contrast.

 

[piu58]

> Over exposed by only two stops? Process normally.

Foma 400 doesn't have real 400 ASA, rather around 200. That makes only 1 stop overexposure.

Beside of this, Foma 100 and Foma 400 films (but not Foma 200) tend to blocked highlights. In general, it is not a fine idea overexposing or overdeveloping them. 200 or 250 ASA is fine for that film.

 

[macfred]

> ... 200 or 250 ASA is fine for that film.

Uwe, just one question for understanding : Fomapan 400 exposed @Iso 200-250 - developing for box speed ? Did I get this right ?
I use Foma 100 and 200 @box speed - developing for box speed - works for me.

 

[R.Gould]

For many years I have been using Fomapan 200 and 400 at box speed and it works fine for me

 

[mnemosyne]

Uwe, just one question for understanding : Fomapan 400 exposed @Iso 200-250 - developing for box speed ? Did I get this right ?
I use Foma 100 and 200 @box speed - developing for box speed - works for me.

For many years I have been using Fomapan 200 and 400 at box speed and it works fine for me

Of course it all depends on the way one meters the light, the subject luminance range and, finally, what amount of shadow detail one may require or expect. I would strongly suggest everyone who has been happy to shoot Fomapan at box speed to not worry and simply continue to do so and live happily everafter ...

However for the uninitiated who are new to Fomapan films, the technical facts are indeed that the films will miss box speed by a good margin when developed to normal contrast in standard developer like ID-11/D-76. This is very clear from Foma's own technical data sheets. And like Uwe said, the films will pick up contrast quickly, so keep good control of your whole process to avoid burnt out highlights. Again, this doesn't mean you cannot obtain pleasing pictures when exposing Fomapan at box speed ...

For those who are looking at a guideline how to expose and develop the film you may want to look at page 2 of the said technical data sheets where you have graphs showing contrast and speed in relation to development time for some popular developers. For normal contrast range subjects I would stick to the shorter end of the development time range given on page 1 (maybe even a bit shorter) and strictly avoid over-agitation.

 

[R.Gould]

I get very good shadow detail, I do worry about getting very good results, as did my customers until I retired from professional photography, I develop in Rodinal 1/50, I develop anywhere from 14 minutes to 17 minutes, depending on the light and the results I want,and I did study the technical data sheets for Foma films before I started using the film some 15 years ago, my customers were happy with the results, happy enough to give me a very good living indeed, I have used Fomapan at 200, and will do so, again depending upon the light, for very flat,dull light 200 would help, saying that, same applies to TriX and HP5+, but personally, after 15 years or more working with the film I think that I know the films pretty well, and I by far prefer the results on Fomapan to anything from Kodak or Ilford,

 

[macfred]

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Thank you for sharing your experiences with Fomapan(400) !