Help Pulling Fomapan 400 to asa100???

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stradibarrius

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I by accident shot a roll of Fomapan 400 at ASA100 so I guess I pulled it 2 stops...correct???

I can find times to process it if I push it but not for pulling it.
I can process it in either Rodinal or HC110?
What would be a time for 1+50 @ 20C??
 

AgX

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You overexposed it 2 stops, you still have to pull it (back)...
 

jmcd

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Try 8-1/2 minutes @68 degrees, with initial 30 seconds of agitation, following with 2 inversions every minute. (edit: in Rodinal 1:50)
 
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padraigm

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Well I would not pull too much as to me that films speed is pretty close to about an ISO 160. I know I know... But that is from my experience. If I shoot it over ISO I get really bad results.
 

RobertV

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It's really only a one-stop pull, as the Fomapan films are all about a stop slower than box speed, so just take 10% off the time you normally use for developing in your favorite developer

In most developers you will get iso 250 for Fomapan 400. So your E.I. 100 is just 1 1/3 stop in pull. Just to take off 10% is a good rule of thumb.
 

A49

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I by accident shot a roll of Fomapan 400 at ASA100 so I guess I pulled it 2 stops...correct???

I can find times to process it if I push it but not for pulling it.
I can process it in either Rodinal or HC110?
What would be a time for 1+50 @ 20C??

Stradibarrius,
I know this is no direct answer to your question: Nevertheless the most elegant way to solve your problem is to develop with Ilford Perceptol. Perceptol uses only the half film speed in comparison with other developers. So the real ISO 250 of Foma 400 would change to ISO 125 which practically is what you exposed for. The other advantages of Perceptol are extremely fine grain (I think there is no better developer in this category.) and very good sharpness. You would be surprised how much better your negatives would come out in comparison to the development in Rodinal or HC110 (If you do not wish for coarse grain). Perceptol comes in relatively small packs for 1 liter that develop maximum 4 films (Ilford recommendation). Therefore not much would be wasted.

Besides that to shorten the dev time about 10 would also do the job. But the contrast would also be lower with that. I don´t know if you wish for this with the things you photographed. If you took the original time there is no change in contrast but the negatives would be a little more dense. That is usually no problem, you only would have to take longer exposure times when you enlarge them.

Best of luck,
Andreas
 

RobertV

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Nevertheless the most elegant way to solve your problem is to develop with Ilford Perceptol. Perceptol uses only the half film speed in comparison with other developers

I do not know if you have tested this Fomapan 400 and Perceptol (Ultra Fine Grain) combination..... but in the past with some Ultra Fine Grain developers Fomapan 400 can react pretty strange.
I can remember my HRX-II test (SPUR) were the film hardly had iso 50 left.
 

A49

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I do not know if you have tested this Fomapan 400 and Perceptol (Ultra Fine Grain) combination..... but in the past with some Ultra Fine Grain developers Fomapan 400 can react pretty strange.
I can remember my HRX-II test (SPUR) were the film hardly had iso 50 left.

Robert,
you call an important point. Could the Perceptol chart here http://www.fotoimpex.de/Technik/Foma400/foma400.html tell us something about the real ISO speed of Fomapan 400 in Perceptol? I must admit that I´m not really sure how to interpret it. At least the starting ISO of the S curve (density?) is less then the half of the other developer´s S curve starting ISO.

Best,
Andreas
 
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Though I'm really a cat, I'm also bit of a chicken. I would try to do a snip test before processing the whole Kitten Kaboodle.
 
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stradibarrius

stradibarrius

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Here are three shots off the roll shot at ASA 100. I used HC110 1+50 7 min @20C.
They turned out ok???
The apple shot is different than the one I use for my avatar.
 

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stradibarrius

stradibarrius

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The exposure was the same. The angle of the shot was slightly different. #1 I was turned slightly further away from the sun. I used a hand held meter to set the exposure...I don't remember what the exposure was???
 

altair

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Mainecoonmaniac said:
Though I'm really a cat, I'm also bit of a chicken. I would try to do a snip test before processing the whole Kitten Kaboodle.

Thanks for this, you have made my day mainecoonmaniac!

-A fellow cat lover

A bit OT: Was thinking of buying some Fomapan 400 to use as my new 400 speed film, but I might change my mind based on what I read here, i.e Fomapan 400's 'real' speed is closer to ASA200 or 160. Really now?
 

RobertV

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Fomapan 400's 'real' speed is closer to ASA200 or 160.


Dead Link Removed

Reading back the diagram you can see that with most regular developers Fomapan 400 gives a real speed of iso 200-320.

Here a 5 different iso 400 film test which means on iso 400 Fomapan gives no good details in the shadow anymore:

http://bit.ly/d29QZD

With each Ultra Fine Grain developer any film will loose 1 F stop.

Best regards,

Robert
 

altair

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Thanks Robert. Very interesting links, especially the 2nd one.

So based on that, would anyone recommend pushing Fomapan 400 Action to ASA 1600? To be developed in R09 or ID11 stock, say.
 

OMU

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Sorry, must have asked the wrong question.
I'm trying again. :smile:
There are 5 exposes on each strip, different exposed. It looks like it is one zone difference from one frame to the next?
 
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