Help please!

[Gerry M]

I just shot a roll of Fomapan 100 and forgot I had a yellow filter on the lens. I set the aperture and shutter at the info on my handheld meter. So, no compensation for the yellow filter. My question: How do I compensate for this when I develop the film? I can use Arista Premium developer 1:9 or HC110. Thanks for any input.

Gerry

 

[MattKing]

Which yellow filter?

 

[Hatchetman]

You underexposed by one stop, don't worry about it.

FOMAPAN 100 Classic is a panchromatically sensitized, black-and-white negative
film designed for taking photographs. The film meets high requirements for low
granularity, high resolving power and contour sharpness and a wide range of
halftones. FOMAPAN 100 Classic has a nominal speed rating of ISO 100/21o, but
due to its wide exposure latitude the film gives good results even when
overexposed by 1 EV (exposure value) (as ISO 50/18o) or underexposed by 2 EV
(as ISO 400/27o) without any change in processing, i.e. without lengthening the
development time or increasing the temperature of the developer used.

 

[mklw1954]

A yellow filter generally reduces light by one stop (check for your type of yellow filter: http://unblinkingeye.com/Articles/BWFF/bwff.html). Check your film and developer data sheets for advice on how much more development time is required to push the development one stop.

 

[Gerry M]

I forgot to add that I was testing a new to me camera. Otherwise I wouldn't be too concerned.

Matt,
The filter is not marked. I would say light to medium.

Hatchetman,
Thanks for the info. I'm a bit relieved!

 

[Rick A]

Depending on which yellow and filter factor, you may only be under exposed by one stop. I've been shooting Fomapan 100 rated at 64 with an deep yellow 15 filter and one stop compensation, normal development. I get good density and some what contrasty negatives for carbon transfer prints. I could back off on the exposure for silver prints. I have a filter factor of 4(2 stops). I'm just saying what works for me, you may want to add 10-15% developing time.

 

[Gerry M]

Comparing this filter to my others, it appears to be a Y1. The filter factor chart shows to allow 2/3 stop, so maybe I will be able to use normal developing time.

 

[whlogan]

If 'twere me, I'd up the development time by 27% based on some long painful years of underexposed negs..... I did some long experimenting work and 27% came out as the best compensation for a missed filter factor on a yellow filter..


Logan

 

[Gerry M]

Thanks to all for your input.

 

[summicron1]

If 'twere me, I'd up the development time by 27% based on some long painful years of underexposed negs..... I did some long experimenting work and 27% came out as the best compensation for a missed filter factor on a yellow filter..


Logan

what this guy said...

 

[Arklatexian]

Go with it. I have known of people who left that yellow filter on their B&W cameras to protect the lens from dust. They developed their film normally.....Regards!

 

[darkosaric]

Go with it. I have known of people who left that yellow filter on their B&W cameras to protect the lens from dust. They developed their film normally.....Regards!

I am one of those guys .

 

[NB23]

Develop normally or simply add one minute development for good measure. I never get a grade 2 print with recommended times so adding a minute to all my developments is good practice.

I get grade 2 prints only when I'm using DD-X.

 

[Gerald C Koch]

You are within the latitude of the film which allows for 1 stop under-exposure. So just develop the film as you normally would. Increasing the development time will also increase the contrast of the negatives and may cause problems when you go to print. Increasing the development time will also not create any more shadow detail.

You could also use a speed increasing developer.

 

[RalphLambrecht]

You are within the latitude of the film which allows for 1 stop under-exposure. So just develop the film as you normally would. Increasing the development time will also increase the contrast of the negatives and may cause problems when you go to print.

+1; developnormally and adjust the rest with paper contrast.

 

[Rich Ullsmith]

The exposure and developing latitude, along with the great price, makes Foma Classic 100 the perfect pinhole film, too.