Help Needed: White Spots on Enlarged Prints

[aaronzomback]

Hello everyone,

I’m reaching out to see if anyone has insight into an issue I’m facing. Every time I enlarge and print photos from certain film negatives, I notice consistent white specks or spots appearing across the images. While the spot locations and intensity vary across different negatives, for the same negative, the spots always appear in the exact same places and with the same intensity on each print.

I've double-checked my negatives, and they appear clean to the naked eye. I’m wondering if it could be something with my equipment, or maybe the negatives themselves. Maybe it is dust on the negatives that don't appear to the naked eye ?

I'm attaching an example image to illustrate what I mean (not a high quality scan - just took a photo of the print with my phone). Any advice or suggestions on what might be causing this and how to resolve it would be greatly appreciated!

If you suspect it is the negatives - how is it best to clean them and remove these specks ? How can I help prevent these specks from appearing in the first place ?

Thanks so much in advance for any help!

 

[Don_ih]

If you're using a condenser enlarger, the specks might be on the condenser. I was making a contact print a few days ago and kept getting dust specks on my print, in the same pattern, in a different location each print. I cleaned the condensers (Omega D2 enlarger) and that went away.

The same would hold for any glass at the negative stage.

Also check the inside of your lens.

Make sure there's nothing on your enlarging paper.

Check your negative closely, using a loupe or a camera lens or a magnifying glass. The "naked eye" isn't good at seeing dust.

 

[MARTIE]

"While the spot locations and intensity vary across different negatives, for the same negative, the spots always appear in the exact same places and with the same intensity on each print."

This being true, it must be the negatives.

I think it would be good for you to thoroughly examine your film handling and processing.

 

[Don_ih]

This being true, it must be the negatives.

Unless the spots are on glass somewhere in the enlarger. The negative, after all, goes in the same place every time.

Of course, if the spots are in different locations depending on the negative, it would be the negative that's spotty.

Easy way to find out if the enlarger is to blame: focus a negative at highest brightness on white paper or the easel (if it's white), then remove the negative and look for signs of spottiness.

But it probably is the negative.

 

[Ian C]

Checking the condenser lenses (if your enlarger is the condenser type) for cleanliness is a good idea. A more likely cause is small particles stuck to the film. That’s because the appearance of the white spots on the print are reasonably defined. Thus, they must be at, or close to, the plane of the negative.

You can safely clean negatives with lighter fuel (naphtha) using a small tuft of cotton or a Q-tip (sometimes called a cotton “bud” in the UK). Use almost no pressure against the film. Then blow off the negative with a squeeze-bulb blower to remove loose particles. Use only a drop or so of the solvent. It evaporates quickly. Be careful. Naphtha is extremely flammable.

Do not use alcohol as it always contains some water and the water content will soften the gelatin, which is undesirable.

If you use a glass negative carrier, make sure that all 4 surfaces are scrupulously clean because any particles stuck to the glass will cast shadows onto the paper. These will leave undeveloped white spots on the print when it is developed.

Check negatives or carrier glass for light-blocking particles with a loupe. Particles on the film or carrier glass are most easily seen when viewing through the negative or glass towards a well-lit surface.

 

[koraks]

While the spot locations and intensity vary across different negatives, for the same negative, the spots always appear in the exact same places and with the same intensity on each print

Sounds and looks like just dust.

Small specs of dust can be difficult to see with the naked eye. Be sure to check both sides of the film. It helps if you hold the negatives against the light at a shallow angle. Dust that has dried onto the emulsion can sometimes be nearly impossible to see.

 

[aaronzomback]

Checking the condenser lenses (if your enlarger is the condenser type) for cleanliness is a good idea. A more likely cause is small particles stuck to the film. That’s because the appearance of the white spots on the print are reasonably defined. Thus, they must be at, or close to, the plane of the negative.

You can safely clean negatives with lighter fuel (naphtha) using a small tuft of cotton or a Q-tip (sometimes called a cotton “bud” in the UK). Use almost no pressure against the film. Then blow off the negative with a squeeze-bulb blower to remove loose particles. Use only drop or so of the solvent. It evaporates quickly. Be careful. Naphtha is extremely flammable.

Do not use alcohol as it always contains some water and the water content will soften the gelatin, which is undesirable.

If you use a glass negative carrier, make sure that all 4 surfaces are scrupulously clean because any particles stuck to the glass will cast shadows onto the paper. These will leave undeveloped white spots on the print when it is developed.

Check negatives or carrier glass for light-blocking particles with a loupe. Particles on the film or carrier glass are most easily seen when viewing through the negative or glass towards a well-lit surface.

Is there a particular liquid solution that is preferred to clean the glass ? And I'm assuming a microfiber cloth is best ?

 

[aaronzomback]

Thank you for your insights all -

I will clean the glass first for safe measure - and then examine the prints more closely and try cleaning them with appropriate solution.

 

[aaronzomback]

If it is dust on the negatives - are there any techniques you might recommend for drying them ?

Perhaps it is the drying process that attracts the dust ? In the summer months, I'd hang them outside vertically. Now I resort to hanging them inside my office.

 

[Ian C]

Regarding post #7:

For cleaning carrier glass, any glass cleaner will work. I prefer to finish the cleaning with lens cleaning solution and good quality lens tissue. then a puff of air from a squeeze-bulb blower.

Negatives should be dried in the most dust-free area you have—definitely not outdoors.

 

[koraks]

examine the prints more closely and try cleaning them with appropriate solution.

You need to clean the negatives, not the prints. Most of the dust will wipe off with a clean (!!!) lint-free, soft cloth or brush, or even a very clean/grease-free finger, or can be blown off with a little blower or even your mouth. Some approaches are more effective and/or risky than others.

I'd hang them outside vertically

Not a good idea. Hang them in an indoor space that's as free of dust as possible, where there's little or no movement of people, pets etc to kick up any dust. Common choices are shower cabins or bathrooms; keep out while the film is drying.

There's a couple of dozen threads and hundreds upon hundreds of posts about dealing with dust on Photrio alone. Definitely do a search on the forum and read what others have already said on the topic.

 

[Kilgallb]

I have a Beseler diffuser with mixing chamber. I had the same issue and it was the styrofoam in the mixing chamber flaking off and landing on the diffuser. This blocks the light to the negative.

Any diffuser enlarger with a foreign substance can do this.

 

[wang qing song]

Use a magnifying glass to check if there's any dust on the film or on the glass of the film holder.