HELP : My first film/developer. Its very confusing.

[Nige]

DD-X is too expensive here... LC29 is good with HP5 and FP4

 

[gnashings]

Perhaps a little note from someone who was in your shoes not that long ago:

A friend who was much more "advanced" in this hobby than i was at the time handed me a bottle of Rodinal. The first roll I did wiht it was Delta 400.
Now that I look back at it, it was not the best combo (especially that I had to push the film a bit) - but:
Rodinal is definitely awesome - easy to use, flexible, there is the simple, manufacturer recommended times and dilutions that work great AND then there are people who can tell you a million and one ways to use the stuff toget different results. Its been around for (I believe, I may be wrong) over 100 years and a lot of people still swear by it, myself included. And it keeps very well, is cheap and at the dilutions used, a little bottle can last quite a while!
I have tried every B&W film available in Canada and have developed most of them in Rodinal (I use Microphen for when I know I'll need a push... but am not thrilled with it - may go to something different soon). From my experience I would say this:
-go with a traditional film, as they are very forgiving and easy to work with - so no Delta,no Tmax at first (and personally, Tmax can drop off the face of the planet and I won't miss it... but I know its just a bias)
-whoever told you that FP4+ is not good film needs to have his head examined. I just did a roll of 35mm I shot at 100 and developed in Rodinal 1:50... and wow, what a film! Gorgeous highlights, lovely detail and the kind of ively tones that I find are amputated by the new, high-tech films like Tmax. I wish I could post (I have no scanner...working on it) so youcould see the results that even a relative beginner like me got from that film. In stead, here arsome links from a guy who's work I rather admire:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v613/Nikonf4guy/The-Bridge-Path1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v613/Nikonf4guy/TheUclamp.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v613/Nikonf4guy/Theclimbup.jpg

All three are FP4+, the first two in Diafine, the last in D76. I don't see this proposed lack of "punch".

I also find that FP4+ will give you good results as a "dusk til dawn" film, as long as you have a reasonably quick lens for those time really close to either dusk or dawn.

Of course, I also find that whatever you choose, as long as you work on it, read up on it, will give you great results most of the time. I think the only films I have been really disappointed with so far were Tmax (mostly my fault, but I find it hard to get results from) and PanF (mainly because it is harder to process for desired results and less forgiving, and I have yet to learn its nuiances).

Best of luck.

 

[highpeak]

For low speed film, FP4+ is very good, high speed film, try TriX 400, they both work very well with Xtol. I have been using Xtol for a long time, never had a problem with it. I store them in plastic bottles filled to the top. (Not a good way to store Xtol, there are other threads talking about that issue).

Now, I use Agfa APX100 (my new favorite film, why I didn't find it earlier!).

What a lot people said here are true, keep using one film and developer combo, try to get most out it.

 

[snaggs]

Well I processed Neopan 1600 and TMAX @ EI 6400 last night in XTOL soup. Made a mistake with the temperature for the first one (forgot to cool the temperature of the dev after mixing!), 29 degrees! but the negatives still came out fine from what I can tell, though they do look contrasty.

I also got two bulk loaders... One is now loaded with HP5+ and the other PanF.. I didnt go with Tri-X, as I just dont think Kodak is in for the long haul in B&W film, so I rather support Ilford and keep them healthy.

Im suprised no one recommended using Ilford chemicals, I would have thought they'd be quite good.

Daniel.

 

[John Bartley]

I started with FP4+ and Rodinal at 1:25 in trays. I thought it was super easy, gave good results and was cheap enough for a beginner to make a few mistakes without going broke. It's also a one-shot use, so there's no concern about it going stale between films.

cheers

 

[Bob F.]

<snip>
Im suprised no one recommended using Ilford chemicals, I would have thought they'd be quite good.

Daniel.

They are, but thanks to Ilford's recent problems, they have been in short supply lately (the liquid concentrates are now reappearing on the shelves but still no sign of the powders; Ilford is really shooting itself in the foot there). A few were mentioned: Microphen, LC29, DDX, Perceptol; I mentioned ID-11 myself, but that's a powder and not currently available from Ilford. Microphen & Perceptol, being powders, likewise suffer the same supply problem currently.

The Xtol you are using will do a fine job, though I would have gone for DD-X myself ... Ah... so many developers, so little time...


Cheers, Bob
.

 

[gareth harper]

Yeah DD-X is good, I mentioned that myself.
Ilfosol S is good with slower films, or good with 400asa films for sharpness while still maintaining reasonably fine grain as long as you don't mind losing a little speed.
I've not used the powders, but ID-11 is the classic English do it all developer.
Liquid devs availabilty should be pretty good by now. The powders should be along soon.
Ilford products are all pretty darn good.

 

[P C Headland]

I have only just begun to process B+W films at home.

I went with Rodinal, as it is available practically everywhere, there is a ton of information around on it, it keeps for almost ever, and gives you some options for experimentation. I tend to use slower speed film (100 and slower), although I recently developed APX 400 in Rodinal and it came out lovely.

I would suggest picking one that is easy to get locally, & stick with that. Same for the film - not advice I have followed ... Document each roll you develop, times, agitation, temperature, and note what the results are like.

So far, apart from one attempt at using a "classic" developing tank, I've not screwed up!

Paul

 

[avpman]

Acros 100 is an awesome film. Develops nicely in ID-11. HP5 is also great for using during less bright conditions. I would try several different films to see which one has the look you like. There are very few bad films out there...

 

[modafoto]

Rodinal is a great beginner developer as it is one-shot, cheap and versatile.

Otherwise HC-110, XTOL, D76 and Acutol.