Help me understand the Arca QR system

[Jeff Bannow]

I'm in the process of getting a Photo Clam ballhead, and as such will be using the Arca QR style quick releases. I see there are many lengths and manufacturers out there.

I see Fotopro brand on eBay for cheap - I'm assuming these are cheap knock-off imports?

What's up with the different lengths? Are there other options to worry about?

Who knew it could be this complicated?

 

[resummerfield]

The best quick-release plates to mount your camera to any Arca-style clamp (such as the Photo Clam balllhead), are those plates that are molded to exactly fit the camera, or that have tabs to grip the camera tightly, and thus will prevent any camera twisting. The absolute best plates I’ve found are the Really Right Stuff plates.

 

[Jeff Bannow]

The best quick-release plates to mount your camera to any Arca-style clamp (such as the Photo Clam balllhead), are those plates that are molded to exactly fit the camera, or that have tabs to grip the camera tightly, and thus will prevent any camera twisting. The absolute best plates I’ve found are the Really Right Stuff plates.

It looks like for our Hasselblads at least, they don't make anything custom unfortunately.

 

[resummerfield]

It looks like for our Hasselblads at least, they don't make anything custom unfortunately.

I guess that depends on the Hasselblad model. I'm using the B22, which has a lip to match the factory plate on the 501CM, 503CW and the 553.

Sometimes I find specific products a little hard to locate on the RRS website. If you can't find anything to match your camera, give RRS a call on their 800 number and discuss your particular application.

 

[Jeff Bannow]

So the idea behind the longer plates is that they are slideable along their length?

 

[Jeff Bannow]

I will need to connect:

Hasselblad 500cm
Hasselblad SWC
Chamonix 4x5
Misc other oddball cameras

 

[Q.G.]

Get any of the old style Hasselblad quick mounts. They work like a treat. Do not require another foot than the one already underneath the camera. Are in plentiful supply. And are to be had for very little money these days.

Get a ballhead with a 'straight', simple mount (3/8" screw), and nothing else. Is again the cheapest option.

 

[resummerfield]

So the idea behind the longer plates is that they are slideable along their length?

The ability to slide the camera fore and aft will be a big help with the Chamonix 4x5, since you will be changing the extension, and thus the balance point or center of gravity, to accommodate various focal length lenses.

I have a Canham 7x17, and I installed a 6-inch RRS multi-purpose rail so I can adjust the camera fore and aft to account for various changes in the center of gravity due to different focal lengths.

 

[fotch]

The problem one has in choosing is that it’s impossible for most to judge the quality of the materials used.

There are many varieties of aluminum and steel and each has different properties. I suspect that the quality if a specific material also varies. So, while the knockoffs look as good, usually they are not. For example: the threaded steel screw holding the camera to the plate or the screw holding the clamp jaw shut, if it breaks or strips, can be catastrophic.

With an item such as a ball head, most of the workmanship (internal parts) can only be viewed if you disassemble it. I read some articles on the net where this was done and what was found was extremely crude and poor machining and workmanship. The articles offered photos to illustrate these points. The authors also found that within a very short time, the ball heads would get so sloppy that they were worthless.

Arca-Swiss, Really Right Stuff, Kirk, and several other USA and European ball heads, clamps, and plates were quality and trustworthy, the cheap knockoffs were not.

For me, the solution was to buy used (in most cases) and I have been very satisfied, and really like the convenience and safety of this system.

 

[David A. Goldfarb]

I have a variety of plates ranging from cheap generics to RRS, original Arca-Swiss, and one nice custom plate for Sinar. They all work, and cheap generic plates are satisfactory for many uses. RRS plates tend to be designed to be as light as possible and are made of excellent materials, but it's not as if they're that much lighter than a generic plate without cutouts that remove a few grams here and there. Some RRS, Kirk, and other plates are designed with ridges to keep the plate from twisting, and there are L-plates to mount the camera horizontally or vertically, and the ability to slide the camera fore and aft can be useful with large cameras or long lenses. There are also A-S style replacement feet for long lenses to give the lens a lower profile on the head.

For flatbed field cameras, I think you want the RRS B35 plate, if I remember correctly. It has a larger surface that contacts the camera bed and a relatively low profile.

On my Linhof Tech V I have a 2" generic plate on the body and a 4" generic plate on the bed, and with a long clamp I can slide the camera from one clamp to the other and use them like an ersatz macro rail in the field or balance the camera wherever it makes sense to do so.

Clamps are another issue. Screw clamps will usually work with all plates. Lever/cam-locking clamps are quick to use, but not as universal. They don't close tightly enough for some clamps, and that usually includes the rail on an actual Arca-Swiss monorail camera, even though that is theoretically the standard.

Also note that with some cameras it makes more sense to set up the plate along the left-right axis (which favors use with a ballhead) and with others it makes more sense to set up the plate so the camera slides fore-aft, and then there are square plates that can clamp in either orientation.

Since I use an Arca-Swiss B2 head, I have all my clamps set up in the fore-aft orientation, but that means that I can't use an L-clamp on my 35mm cameras, at least not with the B2.

My Stroboframe Pro-RL also has an Arca-Swiss style base, so it doesn't require and additional clamp to mount it to an A-S style clamp.

 

[L Gebhardt]

For the Chamonix contact Kerry Thalmann for a good quick release plate. Mounts with two screws and is nice and long and low profile.

(there was a url link here which no longer exists)

I'm still using a general plate from Acratec with the new Hasselblad. I'll pickup a custom fit plate sometime in the future. Having a few general flat plates is helpful to mount miscellaneous cameras. Get an L plate for any camera without a rotating back or square format. They really make the setup more stable and easier to use.

 

[Mark Fisher]

I have almost the same situation you do. My Hasselblad has a Kirk plate that works perfectly. My Tachi has the same longer Photoclam listed above. I'd call/email Kerry and ask his advice. He is a pretty straight guy and he'll get you what you need. Sorry I missed the non-Photostock this year, but I was up in the Cascades.......next year!

 

[Jeff Bannow]

Thanks everyone for the info - things seem clearer now.

Kirk has some inexpensive generic plates available for $17 - seems like a good start. I'll look into custom plates as well.

 

[Jeff Bannow]

Sorry I missed the non-Photostock this year, but I was up in the Cascades.......next year!

It rained the whole time, but was still a blast. Hope to see you next year.