You may very well be right, but Sprint's suggested time is 30 seconds at 1:4, while Ilford's is 60 seconds.
on the sprint website it says for a minimum of 3 minutes fixing for films and prints
I can't speak for the paper you are using, it looks nice but I've never used it, what does the info on the paper say in requires to fix completely ?
I wonder if the Art 300 paper is not appropriate for the "fast" version of the fixer.
you might consider contacting sprint directly and asking them what they suggest. they have real live people there, and experienced photographers who use their chemistry with every paper and film under the sun might have experience with that paper and would be able to give you a better idea of what you should do.
good luck !
John
my guess is for the 300 paper it's about 5 or 6 minutes.. and 30-60 seconds is for RC paper...One of the things I find unusual about the Sprint documentation is that it doesn't make separate reference to fibre based and RC prints. I expect to see recommendations for fixing times that differ between the two substrates. In some ways the Art 300 paper is fibre based paper on steroids, so I would expect even more of a difference.
The idea of contacting Sprint is a good one. Art 300 probably didn't even exist when they wrote their directions.
thumb's up.Good idea. I shall!
The Art 300 sucks in chemicals.Of course, I went for gold and popped the print in selenium after a quick 5-min wash, and it’s now a hot mess.
The Art 300 sucks in chemicals.
A 5 minute wash and no washaid is not going to do the job.
The Art 300 sucks in chemicals.
A 5 minute wash and no washaid is not going to do the job.
Figured I’d post the source of all this trouble:
portrait of one of my daughters.
View attachment 284731
This sounds like a very good idea to me, could also help with wash times if the paper doesn't suck up so much chemistry.Way back with Kodak COLOR fiber base papers there was a presoak. Might help to reduce developer carry over to acid stop that is what protects the fixer.
I'd believe @NB23 - it's probably residual developer in the edges of the paper developing out free silver in the fixer.
He said he encountered the problem and it was resolved by more aggressive stop.
the chemistry always seems to work immediately as long as it is in full contact with the photographic emulsion. I think because the art 300 paper floats it needs to be treated with special care, but still carefully submerged and flipped in a tray. years back when I was running 10 to 16 prints at a time through developer and its friends I was taught to always have a "wet hand" and a "dry hand" and we had tray rockers. the wet hand flipped prints 5 times and the tray rockers assured continuous agitation. over the years I have read threads ( and seen first hand in photo classes ) people just put the print in the developer, they don't flip it and sometimes just let it sit there, and they don't agitate their chemistry. maybe they agitate the developer a little but nothing else. maybe Dusty Negative didn't fully submerge and agitate his print ( which is very nice BTW ) in his stop bath and fixer so the chemistry could fully react with the emulsion.
you don't have to flip much just a couple of times not too fast, and learn the way to hold the print and rinse your gloved hand ( or you might get chemical stains from carry over). you don't need to manhandle just flip with care, and submerge let it sit, then flip again, and submerge and let it sit then rock the tray like you already do. the whole processing the print should be done lovingly .. also make sure you have enough chemistry in your tray you don't want to submerge in a way that you scrape or damage your print on the tray. the biggest problem a lot of people have is they are stingy or ungenerous with their chemistry ( or when making test strips to judge exposure ). make sure when you do your test strips you flip the strip the same way you flip your print so everything is agitated the same way ..Admittedly, I’m an agitator (or would that be agitater?) but not much of a flipper. I am leery of flipping because I have damaged prints before while flipping, but that may be down to my novice status. I see your point, though, and may try more flipping.
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