Help! Hasselblad jammed with lens mounted

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jordanstarr

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So, I just bought back my beloved 40mm lens now that I had the money, went to a concert last night to do some shooting and I got one photo out of the lens when my camera jammed completely. Won't wind, won't fire, lens won't come off -nothing. I have tried the trick where you open the shutter to cock the lens through the back, but it's a no go. It won't turn. Can someone help? I have to wait for the tech to come in to my local shop next week so I have 5 days to mess around before this is gonna cost me. If anyone can help, they'll make my top ten favorite people of all time list.
Thanks...Jordan.
 

Andrew Moxom

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Do you know for sure that the lens itself was cocked prior to installing onto the camera? It should have been, but should not be able to be installed if it wasn't, but you never know. Depending on what body you have, check that the little Timer lever is set back to 0 or nothing will happen.
 
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jordanstarr

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The shutter on the lens is closed, so I guess it needs to be wound before anything can happen. But how does one do this if the silver cocking mechanism in the camera won't turn. I am, however, using those cheap little hand screws to repair watches and such. I guess I'll have to wait for my hasselblad camerakey tool to arrive in the mail. Maybe it's just a case of having the right tool?
 

Q.G.

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I am, however, using those cheap little hand screws to repair watches and such. I guess I'll have to wait for my hasselblad camerakey tool to arrive in the mail. Maybe it's just a case of having the right tool?
Alas, but no, it's not.
I'm sorry to add to the misery, but those 'Hasselblad camerakeys' are a waste of money, since that cheap little screw driver will do just as well.

If it doesn't, the front key assembly needs to be moved out of engagement. That's what the other screw you see next to the slotted axle end is for.

But that's only to get the things apart again. Next, you need to find and fix whatever caused this in the first place, and put the front key assembly back into its proper place.

In other words: time to let a qualified technician have a go at it.
 

Q.G.

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Q.C.: Do you have any idea what that costs?
Not really, no. Depends on where you are and who is doing the job.

I spent about US$ 250 not long ago to have an ELX repaired that was totally messed up (someone - not me! - had taken the side panel off (too easy) out of curiosity, messed around and then let the motor run: crunch!).
Going by that (and ignoring any possible problem that caused the jam in the first place) what your camera needs doing should cost next to nothing.

But you will have to find a repair shop capable of doing what needs to be done, explain the problem to them, and have them give you an idea of how much it may cost.
 

Frank Szabo

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Frank: What was the solution to your problem?

Q.C.: Do you have any idea what that costs?

Thanks...Jordan.

My guess just to get it working would be $20 - $50 US. I took it to a rather experienced fellow and left it for a while. He replaced a few parts, also.

Explosives are rather cheap, however, compared to getting a Hassy fixed.

It's been my experience with Hassies that a jam of any kind is a rarity unless the body could stand for a full CLA and perhaps a couple of parts. It sounds as though something in the innards is a tad worn. Check into that while at the shop.
 
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Doug Knutsen

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Similar problem - Mamiya RZ67

I've got the same problem going with my "new" RZ67. I know for a fact that the problem wasn't caused by mounting an un-cocked lens on the camera. I shot one roll of film, switched backs, shot two frames, and whammy!

I sure wish I had access to "20 to 50" dollar shop fees! The nearest camera repair option for me is 70 miles from the farm and you don't get out of their door without dropping $100 or more. They do good work but between their flat rate fees and almost $4 a gallon gas, it's gonna hurt to get this body back in the swing of things.

Fortunately, I still have my RB67 and associated equipment. But, man, it's going to be hard going back to that after having just run a roll and 2 frames through this RZ. This RZ was an instant love affair!

Doug K
 

Q.G.

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But: "I have tried the trick where you open the shutter to cock the lens through the back, but it's a no go."

The trick with the other screw is explained Dead Link Removed (the "hard jamming" bit).
This works by moving the front key assembly out of the way of the lens, so it can be removed from the camera.
The front key assembly of course needs to be put back in its proper place. The page suggests counting turns. May work, but as you can imaging, is not very accurate. So try at your own peril.

Also, getting the lens off is one thing. Correcting a possible fault that caused the 'jam' is another thing. Something that this obviously does not do.
 

Terence

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I've gotten some stubborn jams when the lens-to-body mating is a bit loose. A CLA was required for both to reliably kill the problem.

Basically, it was just loose enough to create the half-cocked condition when the male flange didn't properly engage the female slot on the lens. A little bit of play between the two can cause havoc because it will engage then disengage and then engage again, etc., repeat.
 

OnTargetInc

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I had the same problem happen while photographing a wedding. Turns out the lens just needed to be tightened more on the camera.
 
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jordanstarr

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...I managed to get the lens off by really working the inside screw and having another person hit the release and twist the lens at the same time. So, it's off -that's the good news. The bad news is my camera is messed so I'm sending it to Vancam this week for a CLA and repairs if needed 'cause now the camera won't wind and the shutter curtains are sluggish.
 
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